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Symptoms - low rpm power and stumble 1900-2100 rpm under load due to a lean condition. This is a problem I, and many others, have been dealing with for years. It's been reported in a number of forums on different Jeep websites with no tangible solutions that I've found. It may apply to the...

My rough running and slight idle miss has been coming and going for years. Last few weeks it got worse and being in the middle of a move, I decided to let the local Jeep dealer do some diagnostics. I've thrown enough labour/sensors at this to make most people think I'm nuts but I enjoy working...

I decided to post this after much research and investigation. Still not 100% but initial findings are interesting. There are many 2.5 owners that have never solved a slight running issue (2000rpm "hickup", etc). Once you get beyond the typical sensor/clock-spring replacement and repetitive...

After an ABS light and subsequent clockspring replacement, I found my engine dramatically ran better. The slight missing, gear noise, and 2000rpm "hiccup" (2.5 problem) disappeared. I assumed it had something to do with the sensor-ground circuit feeding noise to the other sensors. Now, many...

3 weekends of doing battle with Murphy... Most of us now know that you have to index the speedo gear housing to the range of numbers imprinted on the housing for whatever # gear you have. Indeed, since the one position accommodates a range of diameters, alignment can't be that precise. But I...

After 5000 or so miles after the SYE install, my speedo quit and check engine light came on. Standard VSS code. After pulling the sender/gear assembly, the teeth on the drive gear and speedo gear were chewed. The instructions from Tom Woods have you rotating the off-set gear until it just...

I've been dealing with 50+mph vibrations for a couple of years. The first harmonic is exactly the RPM of the rear D/S. In my earlier posts, I mentioned removing the front D/S, the 2 front long shafts inside the front axle, and re-installed the stub shafts into the hubs - essentially making a 2wd...

I've been living with a 2.5 that's been a little cranky below 2300 rpm. Always assumed (like many others) that it's just a characteristic of the old AMC designed motor. The right conditions cause it to buck at 2000rpm while pulling a hill and suddenly giving it a little more throttle. Now before...

Assuming you've checked all the simple stuff - tires, eng/trans mounts, ujoints, front hubs, etc, and ran it with each driveline removed. And the problem persists... First off, I'll pass on a tip I recently got from a diff/trans shop we do business with. If you really want to narrow it down...

31.1 Imp MPG, 26 U.S. MPG. 6 hour trip, two mountain passes - one over 4000'. Backed up by Google map distances. Temp 55 to 60F. Stock wheels, stock sized tires. Ride was excellent. RS5000x shocks seem to be even better after a few thousand miles.

I assumed that you could simply pop the TJ into 4hi and back to 2hi and life would be grand. Now I'm not so sure. Recently, I discovered quite by accident, slightly higher gear noise when I shifted back into 2hi. The linkage is properly adjusted and the 4WD light does go out when you put it in...

Just picked up some Grizzly mags in great shape for $48.59 each and they arrived within a few days. They are having a sale 20% off until the end of January as they are moving to a larger lot. Lots of great reviews since the new owners took over a few years back. Great source for used parts...

I see there are a number of threads on control arm bushings. One thing to keep in mind is that the stock rear upper arms take the most beating. You're likely to find movement in them while the lowers and the 130ft lbs clamping them seem to last forever (a little surface weathering doesn't...

I installed a Moog DS1235 front track bar maybe 20K ago (under 2 years) on my stock SE. I detected some front end movement so I had the wife rock the steering wheel and the play was in the axle end of the Moog bar. I removed it and you could see the cracking/seperation in the rubber so I bought...

Could be a intake or exhaust leak. These TJ's don't use an abundance of fasteners to attach the manifolds. 4 of the 7 bolts use big concave washers to bridge both manifolds. I can't imagine how anyone could achieve the proper clamping force if using an after-market Chinese manifold. There's too...

I called Superior Cooling Systems to inquire about future availability on these cores listed for 97-2001. https://www.superiorcooling.co/4874045-399233-heater-core-jeep-cherokee-comanche-wagoneer-wrangler.html Currently out of stock and the previous batch flew off the shelves. Said they will...

I haven't totally eliminated everything but a good 80% is now gone. Changing out the cheap jobber rear drums (large tacked on weights) for Centric drums made a huge difference. And they were pretty reasonable on Rock Auto for the "premium" versions - P/N 125.67045. Reset the control arms &...

I just picked up my drums across the border and upon opening the boxes, I was a little disappointed. Centric's website specifically states "O.E. specification mill balancing eliminates vibrations". Then I find tacked weights just like the cheap drums. Here's the picture of their claim and what I...

Here's the problem. Stock NV231J transfer case main-shafts with the slip-yoke setup are pricey $349-379 and you're still stuck with the short comings of this setup. Add $200 or so for a new stock driveshaft and you might as well consider the much superior SYE kit and double cardan shaft which...

I just installed a Mopar reman steering gear yesterday. The AC Delco inexpensive jobber gear I put in almost two years ago finally puked. It had oozed (initially dirty) oil out of the sector shaft since new and finally blew out a stream of fluid when turned (lightly) to the stops. The cheap...