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Without getting a closer look, no I don't see visible damage that would stop it in its tracks. I just get nervous about it because of what I went through. My rear end was completely locking towards a dead stop when that pinion gear was making best friends with the carrier. And the whole comment...

I don't know man. I'd feel mighty uncomfortable keeping that damaged carrier and pinion gear. And you definitely won't regret 4.11s if you go that route. When mine went, I found a dude from this forum just 20 mins from me selling a nice Dana 44 and then had both diffs regeared to 4.11 from the...

So, in case you haven't stopped driving this already, you need to stop driving now. I had a situation years ago where the pinion nut on my rear end loosened up, which led to the pinion gear eating straight into the carrier. It reared its ugly head on the way home from work one day, when every...

I know this looks like another cold start hesitation thread, but I feel like I've combed through everything and can't find the same issue. I'm in Seattle and we're experiencing temps in the teens right now. When I start the Jeep for the first time in these temps, it starts fine and then RPMs...

Hair dryer for the sticker, goo gone+ some more heat for the remaining adhesive

Yeah that worked. No idea why I didn't try before. I kept pushing down. Under the cowl is surprisingly clean and no seized screws. Are those original Mopar wiper arms? I didn't run across that latch when I was looking at the FSM or in my owners manual.

I was looking to take the cowl off for the first time and clean out any debris. Went to remove the wiper arms according to everything I've seen & read, and realized that mine don't have that handy little tab on the bottom that folks usually pry down with a flathead screwdriver. In fact, I can't...

Just call your local shops and ask for an estimate. They'll probably give you a time estimate based on something like the ALLDATA listing for the job multiplied by their hourly rate + parts (including markup) * local sales tax. There is a high likelihood that an experienced mechanic will be...

Holy shit that is overkill. I think I used a hefty flathead screwdriver and long-nose vice grips to get everything together, an offset wrench for the bleeder valve, and an adjuster tool for the star wheel. $250 in tools for drum brakes ... not in a million years.

I think I found what you're looking for on the Redneck Garage page https://www.theredneckgarage.com/jeep-electronic-assessories

I hope someone who knows about YJs does pipe up, but in the meantime I suggest you join a YJ specific forum to find the right folks. We're all TJ owners here, though I know there are a few who have gone through the ringer with everything from Cj-2As to JTs around these parts.

The FSM for my 2005 says 60 ft. lbs. for the frame-side ball stud nut. If you can't get the cotter pin in @ 60, tighten until you can.

There's so much more you'll learn from this forum juts by reading threads recounting peoples' experiences. Soon you'll feel like Connor Macleod absorbing all of the experts' powers and knowledge but without having to cut their heads off like the Highlander.

I've been using a RAM mount for a long while on both my TJ and on my motorcycle. The initial price might seem higher than a lot of other mounts, but the security and different configurations are enough to warrant the price. It's stayed rock steady on my bike @ 60mph, so I couldn't recommend it...

I used my original sensor. It didn't want to come out at first which made me nervous. I read one or two accounts of people's MOPAR sensors crumbling when they removed them. But some patience helped and it eventually released from its 16 year home.

I'll cross those electrical bridges when I get there. I need to tackle three ready shocks next, but I'm really not in a hurry. I think the OPDA was the last pressing thing for now. Hopefully.

What brand of the O2 sensors did you buy? It sounds stupid, but the only ones that work properly with these vehicles is NTK/NGK. Anything else will throw codes.

I definitely had a slightly tough time getting the first thread in place. Large hands as well. After that it was all gravy.

I had to go to 3 different shops to find a 6 point 1/2in box wrench. That retainer bolt was a real beast to remove because it's in such a tight spot. I ended up using a 6in clamp to pull the wrench towards the motor mount. Other than that, everything went by the book. I did it all alone. Once...

I've heard about the issue being blown out of proportion but the anxiety of a blown motor was weighing too heavy on my shoulders. Good to know I'm likely worrying too much. I went to inspect the old OPDA the other day and it spins freely and quietly; no noise, nothing that feels like a binding...