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Took a minute, it's easy. We are required plate illumination, but I'm only taking it out for quick drives during the day right now to test some changes. I've got LEDs for it I need to wire up

Threw a tune on my Gladiator Rubicon EcoDiesel on 37s. Stock 3.73s and 6,140 lbs I think it might be quicker than my supercharged TJ now 🤫

A little longer in the front would be great! That reminds me I want to pull mine back off and trim the rear shorter and weld an end plate on Meanwhile I quit obsessing about where to put my license plate and just drilled some new holes. I mean, what's two more holes through the tub at this point

Didn't watch the video but seems pointless to me. I want that boost on tap all the time. And my supercharged Jeep isn't even a 4 banger. If you need it you have it, and if you don't need it then you're not in boost. Maybe the clutch is just to reduce the parasitic drag on the engine when it's...

Finished up the intake and shoehorned a Walker Quiet Flow in, complete with booger welds

You must be new here

I do, but not on my A pillar. Are you arguing for bulkier stuff hanging off the side of a jeep for the sake of being pedantic?

Then the fender wouldn't last a day. You get my point, or no? Snorkel in the way.

I have a snorkel on my Gladiator EcoDiesel. Cold air and a Sy-Clone centrifugal pre-filter, but I've been told before on this forum that dust separators are a myth or something. I didn't install it for water fording, but, the stock intake location on the JL/JT pulls from under the hood gap right...

I've never asked. None of my business, really.

Just kids. Had a rusted out 90s f150 roll up on me the other day and tell me my Jeep was gay. That was about it, though. Also had some kids throw a beer can out their rusted out 1500 at my SRT10 the other day. Their aim was poor, and their truck was slow. Ever daily driven a sports car? Can't...

I think the opposite, assuming I'm interpreting their instructions correctly? I've got the original steel 5-hole Currie Antirock and run it in the loosest setting as well, paired with the stock rear sway. I like how it performs. Not sure if I can keep the stock rear when I outboard though...

My savvy short arms went ungreased on my daily driver in ohio and minnesota for probably 8 years and were still quiet and no play. Another forum member bought them as-is and successfully rebuilt them and put them back into service on the west coast. I avoid mud, though. Mud destroys everything.

I'd vote for 4.88 on 33s and the ax15 as well. I've got 5.13s on 35s with the 6 speed, and I think that's just right, and it's ~150rpm higher at 70 than the 4.88 setup in question. Although I don't think 4.56s would be unusable.

I took my floors down to metal anywhere I saw any rust, hit it with multiple rinses of phosphoric acid over a couple days to convert any rust left behind that I might have missed, then used brush-on rustoleum primer and finished with their matte black enamel.

Depending on what kind of wheeling you do, there's RCV as a good option as well. I've seen enough ujoints launched out the vehicle from throttle-down wheel-cut applications in the Appalachias that I see the benefit of the RCVs. And last I looked they were about the same price as all the other...

At one point I had my 2wd Comanche (that I was converting to 4x4) and my TJ both with the front axles out from under them sitting side by side in my garage and the temptation was strong to bolt up the 2wd front beam axle to the TJ just to snap some pictures to confuse the interwebs. But...

I've got an 05 with the IAT sensor in the intake tube, PN 56028364AA that presses in with an o-ring. Long story short I'm going to a water/meth injection system and moving the sensor downstream of my supercharger to properly read IATs. The 04 and earlier have the thread-in IAT sensor in the...

Great condition original uppers. VIN confirmed to be 1999 Dark Tan. Seems like it'd be a shame to cut these skins off so I bought different frames. $150 + ship from 55044, or local pickup.

These are a set of eight of the double adjustable arms without wrench flats. They have grooves on the inside of the ball that leads me to believe they are drilled to work with the grease-able bolts but I can't confirm without disassembling and I don't care to do that. These arms were on my Jeep...