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I think I might like it! I wonder if the hood has provisions for the windshield wiper nozzles, footman loop, and the hood bumpers?

Sure they are cheaper to replace. The sliders were only used for two years. The rotary dials were used for eight. What is wrong with his panel that he has "rig" to make work?

What kind of one-off things? I have a 1998 model, and it has the same "slider" style climate control panel as the 1997. I don't care for the later style (1999+) rotary knobs, either.

The stock aluminum wheels that are correct for your 1998 model year are called Gamblers. Gamblers are 15x8, and they were optional for 1997 - 1999 on Sport and Sahara models.

I agree with the first part of your response. And I agree that 1997 - 1999 were the very best years of the TJ. But I am curious as to why you think 1997 was the single best year?

Perhaps he was joking. There is no way I would drive any CJ, YJ, or TJ at that speed - even with stock tires.

Thanks for the link. But what I was looking for specifically was the OEM tool that shipped with the TJs. I would like one to complete my restoration project.

I am looking for the OEM hardtop installation/removal tool that came with Jeeps equipped with a hard top. Molar part number 55177245AB

I am looking for a black/dark gray instatrunk in good shape. I am specifically looking for the OEM plastic Mopar one with JEEP logo on it.

I despise the look of an aftermarket head unit.

I am running 265 75R 16 tires on my Moab wheels without any spacers. 265s are only about 1" shorter than the 285s, so you may want to consider them. Also keep in mind that a 285 tire will not fit on the stock tire carrier without a body lift. A 265 will.

Do yourself a big favor and reverse both door handles while you are replacing them. I did this to my own TJ a few years ago, and this turned out to be one of my favorite mods. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaQxExi-GTU&t=259s

Thanks! Is there a better option that doesn't need a clear? I am going for a stock look.

I was thinking of using SEM Landau Black.

I found this older thread using a search. Thank you for saving me money by pointing out that adhesion promoter is not needed. I have a set of Rubicon flares that I would like to clean up and paint. When you say they need a "basic scuff," what would you suggest? Is a clear a coat needed?

I like it. It gives it kind of a CJ look. Except, I would lose the "WRANGLER," "4.0L," and the "Sport" decals. The smaller font does not look right with the wider stripes, in my opinion. Here is a photo of my 1998 TJ with similar - but thinner - stripes: I just got my Jeep re-painted...

I have a 1998 TJ that was ordered with a stock metal add-a-trunk. It is getting very rusty, and I would like to replace it. I see that the ones on later models are made of plastic. Do these mount using the same holes and hardware as the earlier metal ones?

Here is the back glass at rest, struts removed, and tailgate open: Here is what it looks like before I use one hand to hold the glass down, and the other to push the tailgate closed: And here is the tailgate completely closed against the back glass:

Do I really need one? If you have a hard top: When you close *your* back glass, do you have to hold it down a little in order to close *your* tailgate? Or can you close *your* tailgate without having to also hold the back glass down?

Thank you, gentlemen. I checked the back glass with a fresh pair of eyes yesterday, and found two issues: 1. - The weatherstrip on the hardtop side of the glass was put on *backwards.* Reversing it allowed the glass to hinge down to the tub a bit closer than it was before. It is now only...