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I am seeing places with Yukons, but at quite a dramatic cost difference. I presume/assume that since Yukons look to be more available, they are not using the circle K parts, and are scraping whatever they can get. Would I be correct?

Hi again! Poking this thread to see if any Revolutions have popped back up of late. My searching seems to be about the same results these days.

Wow, that is really helpful. Thanks for that.

I could see myself going to 33s, but not quite to 35s (subject to change) primarily because that would involve a higher lift. Gears I can justify to my better half, but not so much larger tires. Just got new Duratracs, so incremental upsizing would take a while. :) Until I get the 33s (could be...

Currently 32" with what I assume is the 42RLE transmission. We've got some mountains around here, so regearing was something I have been looking forward to for some time. I considered 4.56, but then decided that in the future I'd be looking at larger tires (but not obnoxiously larger), so I'd...

Has Corona also hit the decent gear market, killing production? In search of 4.88s for my 2006 Rubicon. They seem unobtanium. Does anyone have knowledge of any gathering dust?

Hi Folks, just aligning it all back up after install/swap. How do folks go about torqueing the drag-link to pitman arm nut properly? I tightened it down with the only thing that would fit in the space: a common open ended wrench. When I take it to the shop to align I am going to have them torque...

Wish I was back in machinist training and had a proper lathe in front of me. :)

I’d settle for 3/4 of the way through the sleeve. The teeth digging into the original sleeve was evidence enough for me that movement was occurring where it should not have been.

I got a new bolt with the KOR kit I installed above. Just discussing the threads on it reaching inside the metal sleeve, the smooth shank part not being long enough. The shop used to install the JKS trackbar originally, apparently used a bolt threaded the entire length. So not only did the...

Simply for the sake of structural integrity, and eliminating any and all areas where wiggle room can occur. I already have DW and have had it long enough, and have swapped parts long enough, that things like this stand out like sore thumbs to me. If threads are digging into the sleeve, that is...

Indeed. For a cost in the neighborhood of $30. More concerned about the threads in the sleeve than the ability to grease the bolt.

So I got the new bushing and sleeve pressed in, but the KOR bolt's shank only reaches a certain distance into the sleeve, and that's before considering the amount that will be in the bracket.

Things are, at the end of the day, worth what are paid for them. :)

About 5 years ago I paid $18k for my 06 rubicon. Had 36k miles on it, and abr bumpers, winch, JK wheels, and hardtop. If only the dreaded DW demon had not been possessing it since...

The pitting was indeed on the exterior of the sleeve, against the bushing material. The bolt used for the jks install was no doubt fully threaded evidenced by the inside of the bushing. Basically they apparently used no grease whatsoever with the bushing or sleeve, AND used the wrong type of bolt.

Just tried this. No joy. Went back to the trusty bfa and slammed it a few times more. It finally gave up and let loose, the sleeve was rusted and pitted enough that it was locked against the red bushing material like a champ. I imagined the sleeves would be stainless steel? The inside of the...

How on earth did I miss that?

"knocking" as been unsuccessful, as the red bushings are soft enough to have a good grasp of the sleeve (With a BFH and appropriate-sized solid rod). Wondering if Autozone has a loaner press for it.

I have a JKS adjustable track bar with the stock (red) bushing. I plan to swap the bushing over to the KOR one I just received, however with the "lips" on the outside of the 2-piece bushing I cannot figure out the best way to remove it. I have a BF-Vice, and can certainly rig something to force...