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And pray that some PO along the way didn't already have this same idea.

Please. If the topic is Chuck Norris & ruined scenes, the line forms to the left behind this.

Everybody touts this, but it's not like there are an abundance of these out on marketplace. I know, because I have a regear to 4.10 in my future (on 3.07 currently) and haven't found anything suitable to swap in.

I'm going to need you to show me the math on that.

oh i missed the rebuild bit.

Im confused why you say you have low compression but then say (and show) that the compression is ok across all 4 cylinders.

I've also switched over to lube lockers and am never going back. I know with a gasket it's important not to over torque the bolts, not sure if that's a thing with RTV.

Somehow this is the only picture I have of my jeep after I added the lights. p.s. don’t bother with the limb risers. Even in places where they would be handy they aren’t handy.

I believe for 33 & 42RLE, 5.13 is the recommendation. Willing to bet that the shop will recommend something lower (numerically), but just search here. There are 3 such threads a week on exactly this. We should make an FAQ for it.

Standard answer is to put a mechanical gauge on it and see what readings you get directly off the engine, w/o any influence from the PCM or other electronics.

site performance is quite a lot better if you're a supporting member. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Regarding the chromoly axles, make sure you know what you're buying if you have a dana 35 back there. Somebody here will chime in with the specifics, but the 4340 chromoly will not work with the dana 35 outer...

I’m not worried about function, I know how this one operates. Really it’s just the input/output compatibility across years/models that I want to understand.

It’s assembled, but I have to open it up to replace the shaft. It’s already been opened up (recall that thread where I showed the sheared off output shaft?), but it’s currently reassembled.

There are at least 2 transmissions that could be, but a picture would settle the debate and then we can advise you.

Well, most likely I’m going to assemble it to sell it. Just wondering what I should disclose in the listing. And after all your research, I’m still not sure!

Is there a thread out there or other document that details the variances between the 231 on the Cherokee (98-2001 specifically) and what came in our TJ's? I have a 231 out of a 99 XJ with a broken output shaft, and the output shaft from when I did the SYE on my 97 TJ. I'm not worried about...

oh snap, if it's an AW4 ignore everything I said. It is electronically controlled. Can you get a pic of the transmission pan & post it here? Let's figure out what we're working with. I assumed you had the stock tranny.

This is a (nearly) fully hydraulic controlled transmission. The only electronics involved are the neutral safety switch and the torque converter lockup solenoid. Neither of which are your problem. If you simply unplug the TCC from the back corner of the transmission, the only thing that will...

This is probably a valve body problem. Whether or not you use D or shift through the gears manually, the same clutches & bands are in use. But if you use the manual shifting there is a different valve body circuit in use. Have you tried to really really really wind up first gear to see...

I've never owned a 42RLE jeep, but most here will tell you that for that transmission & those tires you need 4.56 or 4.88 gears to really get the engine to spend more time in the power band. To your specific questions, you don't have a many options in the way of changing the transmission...