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Painted mine factory black along with a clear coat. Sure they will get beat up, but might as well look good doing it.

Your driveshaft is 5.3 degrees, your pinion angle is 7.6 degrees. In a perfect world those two numbers would match. Since there is roughly 12 degrees of separation between pinion and caster from the factory your caster is roughly at 4.4 degrees. Castor can also be measured from the machined...

It’s the tensioner that is bad, which is allowing it to bounce. I don’t believe there is anyway to adjust it. I would replace the whole assembly. I replaced mine a few years back, I went with a mopar one, but I’m not sure if they are still available, worth a look. If not just get a quality...

Yea. That’s bad, shouldn’t do that. It’s worn out.

My crystal ball must not be working as I can’t see how much bounce you have, but regardless the idler pulley should not bounce… time for a new one. Your belt is more then likely slipping which could be causing your issue.

How I recently did my front shock reservoir mount. Kept it simple and out of the way. Just a piece of flat stock from tower bent back to the coil bucket. Added a hard piece of rubber in between the mount and res for funsies

I’d also recommend savvy, but if you are driving this jeep in the winter with salt on the ground it’s a battle you can’t win. I’m in Michigan, so I’m super familiar with salt and rust. Best thing I ever did was to buy another vehicle and store my jeep in the winter. Sooner rather than later...

Your concern about a weld is a none issue, not sure why you would be concerned as most of your jeep is welded together. But if it makes you sleep easier at night a factory replacement should be easy to find as many remove the backseat and the hardware. I’m more curious why it broke in the...

I personally would toss all that in the garbage and start over.

The point of an adjustable track bar is to accommodate for lift. So I’m not sure why you are looking for an adjustable one, or if there is one that would adjust low enough for stock height. I would personally just replace it with a stock one.

Edges are a none issue, they would wrap easy. The countersinks holes would be my concern. The vinyl would wrap down in there no problem, but when you go to tighten the bolts, extra care would be needed to not allow the countersunk bolt to spin. If the bolt spins it would cause the vinyl to twist...

Depends. It would last about as good as paint, but if you use your corner armor it won’t hold up to rocks or tree branches which paint won’t any better. Light tree branch scratches might buff out with paint, but it might tear up the vinyl. Only way to fix that is to remove and replace.

Totally feel the same way. It will get beat up for sure. The inner fenders are also painted and they took a beating with rocks. I own a vinyl wrapping company and this was some scrape vinyl I had laying around, so figured it would clean it up for awhile.

Finally got around to making a reservoir mount and trimming up the inner fender. While I was at it I wrapped the inner fender with a dark charcoal metallic vinyl.

Follow what jjvw says. If you need additional bump stop, I have used send cut send to make additional spacers. I believe rock jock offers the lower spacer but it’s 1” think only. Send cut send has a template online for a circle with a hole in the middle, you just have to spec the dimensions so...

Let me get this correct, your unbiased opinion is based off reviews? If that is truly what you are saying, that has to be one of the more asinine things I’ve read. Read that out loud to yourself a few times

Quick question regarding out boarding the rear shocks. I noted the midarm because the lack of a track bar. I’m in the process of the rear shock outboard. I’ve have the upper poly towers set to the very back inside of frame. So the upper mounts are where they are gonna be. Im set up with 12”...

Hey guys, I’m in the process of installing a savvy mid arm along with relocating the rear coil buckets and will be out boarding. I removed my rear upper coil buckets and they are pretty trashed. Lots of corrosion got in the jounce/nut area and I don’t want to reuse them. So I found I think it...

I’m knee deep in installing the mid arm, it’s an amazing kit. Very well thought out and everything fits extremity well! But we all know that! But why I want to tip my hat to those that have gone down this path, is the cutting of all the frame mounts!! Axles, easy peasy, at least I could get...

Currently working on install the Savvy Mid Arm, ran into my first issue and wondering what your solutions have been. Had ARB lockers installed by a shop a few year ago and the bulkhead fitting is roughly at the top of both front and rear diff, which does not play nice with the savvy trusses. I...