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Any experience with a 4spd manual trans swap in a TJ with a deep granny 1st gear? Other option is an AX15, but I don't think overdrive would be ideal with 4.10 gears/33" tires, unless someone says otherwise.

For sale: Two sets of stock ratio 4.0L rocker arms from Hesco. Cash, MO, PP. Stock replacements with pivots and bridges, $60 shipped CONUS only. Custom ground and shot peened rockers by Hesco for extra clearance with valve cover. Comes with pivots and bridges. $100 shipped CONUS only.

Thanks for the flap disc suggestion, only took about an hour. Taped everything off and took my time grinding and letting it cool, never getting too hot to touch. I was able to take 0.200" off, or about 5mm. With some other adjustments (getting rid of the snout spacer, shortening the crank bolt)...

Shorten crankshaft and get pulleys aligned. Install grill, hood, fenders, roll bars. Finish interior floor coating, whatever that might be and reassemble interior. Get new steering installed and aligned. Swap in ss sye and dial in ds angles. Install rmvb and aux cooler. Install t-case cable...

A build sheet for mine would be pretty useless as most of the driveline has been modified or replaced/upgraded. Only reason I pulled it was to verify the gas tank size.

As assembled there is about an 1/8" of interference between the crank bolt and the fan blades. Obviously I'll need more than just a smidge of clearance between such fast moving parts and account for any flex from the fan blades or the thermo coupler. The ARP bolt head is 1/2" deep, so it could...

Well I mean what's my options, take coarse grit on a sanding block to it and do it by hand? Would a few seconds with a flap disc and then pausing so it never gets too hot to touch be ok? I've never worked with cast iron and don't know how it reacts to certain things. Seems most stroker builds...

The HB is not the issue, I have an OEM mopar HB. The snout on the crank is too long because it is not a 4.0L crank, it's a crank from a '70's AMC 232.

??? Said nothing about stilts. We're fixing vehicles, not taping drywall.

Yes a flapper disc. I was just speculating that I'm not sure what would happen to cast iron with a cutoff wheel so I asked here first.

I would shorten it just shy of the end of the woodruff slot.

That might work. I have a Hesco spacer that could plug the gap around the seal and cover it with plenty of tape to seal it off. It's cast iron so I'm not sure how it would react to cutoff wheels.

Do you think he's gonna give it a try? OP, i've seen guys use a simple pallet to get just a few inches of height.

The pulley has plenty of contact with the seal, actually needs to be spaced farther forward about .080" to better line up with the other pulleys. The end of the crank is longer than a standard 4.0 crank so the harmonic ballancer pulley bolt is contacting the fan blades. I need to trim down the...

Any idea how to shorten the snout of my 232 crank by about 3/8" in vehicle? I imagine the machinists do it on a lathe but I'm not going to tear the motor apart just for this. Edit: thinking about this more I guess the end does not need to be perfectly squared to the crank since there is no...

I think his comment was more of a "why" introduce a NEW jeep owner to the potential for broken body bolts and farking around with the fan shroud, T-case linkage, steering shaft, and risk pissing him off for a gain that by his own definition doesn't need.

LOL, do you guys think the OP is still waiting with bated breath to see which way to mount his tires? (Hint: white letters go in after being scribbled over with a black sharpie)

Has the order gone through or did they cancel it?

Keep the sport, flip the rubi. You know deep down that's the correct choice for you based on your writeup.

No issue with motive gears in my hp30.