Why not just run a counter sink bit (drill) instead? Do these add something I'm not thinking about?
“Thought it was done” build / blog
- Thread starter Gollywomper
- Start date
I was just looking at this picture. I saw someone on one of the forums say they placed a zip tie at the oil level on the sight tube so they'd have an easy reference if it was running low or losing fluid. I thought it was a good idea so I did it on mine. Just passing on the tip.
He was saying because of the slots in the belly skid he couldn't just run a countersunk bolt. So these weld washers are thick enough to all a countersunk bolt if you wanted. They are rounded so aren't going to grab like a regular hex head bolt.
I have button head bolts with mine. And I welded up the slots. See the edge of the slot?
Makes sense. Seeing how we all have the same skid I'm sure I'd have the same issue.
I may pick up a set. I like the idea of the bolts not being little hooks for rocks. I've already caught mine a few times and actually loosened one enough for it to fall out on the drive home. (Certainly not due to user error and not tightening enough.
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Makes sense. Seeing how we all have the same skid I'm sure I'd have the same issue.
I may pick up a set. I like the idea of the bolts not being little hooks for rocks. I've already caught mine a few times and actually loosened one enough for it to fall out on the drive home. (Certainly not do to user error and not tightening enough.
For you guys with the aluminum skids it seems like a good idea and then if you could counter sink the bolt heads into them even though you can't weld them they make good washers for the skid and things should slide off them easier.
Of course I'm sure my thought's might be flawed too.
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OP
No zip tie on mine. Just a sharpie mark.
Was hoping to countersink the bolts for 2 reasons. First is less potential to hang up on a rock. Second is it looks good. Lol.
Was hoping to countersink the bolts for 2 reasons. First is less potential to hang up on a rock. Second is it looks good. Lol.
OP
I am looking into some countersunk washers. If I can find any large enough.
One of the reasons I liked these over other washers I could find was they had a piece that stuck thru the slot so they weren't flat.
This isn't the same one as the one I'd linked from RuffStuff but it's made in the same design.
https://www.barnes4wd.com/Repair-Weld-Washer-34_p_1076.html
So the stepped area fits into your slots.
OP
My concern here is if UCF saw enough manufacturing tolerance change to need holes that big then the reducer washers may not line up properly with the holes in my frame. In other words unless the holes in my frame line up center of the slots on the skid then the reducer will not work. I may have come up with a solution with a certain Wizard.
My frame is all wonky in the first place so yes I understand this part but mine is due to all the changes I've made to mine.
So yes to make the skid fit and everything to all line up I had to take a die grinder and enlarge the slots a little to make everything fit. So I would imagine you'd have to do the same.
I'm interested to see what you come up with.
OP
While I was away from home last week I ordered some button head bolts. I thought this was the way I wanted to go. After more reading and looking at installs it had become clear that a countersunk bolt looks better, honestly it is flat out sexy. Lol.
Here is a pic of the 1/2” button head bolt in the very large slots in the UCF skid. If you look close you can see half the head fits through the slot so they would require a washer to use.
jeepster1407
TJ Enthusiast
Nice build you have so far. That flipped D300 w/ the crawlbox is awesome! As for your bolt issue Barnes4wd also makes some slick bolt head protectors.
https://www.barnes4wd.com/12-to-916-Bolt-Head-Protector_p_1306.html
OP
Yes I found there are several ways to go about this. I do not want to increase the profile of the fastener. I hope to get the skid and MML installed this weekend. Then I will address the mounting concern.
OP
Was all set to get this skid installed today, which I could, but my MML got delayed and will not be here till next week. So looks like it will be next weekend. As I would rather do it all at once.
OP
Crazy. By the looks of it that cable was way over engineered. Guess not though....
OP
I have a hunch(hope) that maybe that why my AC was not as cold the end of last summer. Wasn’t quite shutting the heat off. Maybe? A guy can dream I guess.
OP
I found a crack on my firewall where the battery tray mounts. So out came the tray, which I have been meaning to do since the PO installed the trail gear tray without painting. I got the cracks welded up and painted. Will finish cleaning up the battery tray and get it painted tomorrow.
OP
Before I got started on my MML and skid install I measure my pinion and DS angles. My rear pinion is at 20* and my DS was at 17*. Not sure how I didn’t have noticeable vibrations. Last time I adjusted it was after I installed some springs that ran tall on my rig.
After just the MML I had no notable angle difference, still read 17* on my trusty IPhone. Lol.
Installing the UCF no body lift skid was a quick job. That changed my rear DS angle to 21*. So somehow, by pure luck, my rear pinion is at 20* with a DS angle of 21*.
Man this skid looks 1000 times better than the factory shovel.
After just the MML I had no notable angle difference, still read 17* on my trusty IPhone. Lol.
Installing the UCF no body lift skid was a quick job. That changed my rear DS angle to 21*. So somehow, by pure luck, my rear pinion is at 20* with a DS angle of 21*.
Man this skid looks 1000 times better than the factory shovel.
OP
Step two of this project is doing something about these big ol ugly bolts hanging down.
