“Thought it was done” build / blog

Today we tackled getting the fasteners countersunk. I could not use the existing slot holes that the skid came with due to how oversized they were. So with some Wizardly advice I decided to drill new holes and install new nutserts in the frame. This allowed me to countersink the bolts.

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Very simple and clever. I like it! I might have to copy.
 
A couple pieces of advice for anyone who is going to do this. Get a single flute bit. Or get a multi flute bit for drilling most of the countersink then finish with the single flute.
The multi flute bit wants to leave alot of “chatter”, at least for me it did. So I left the countersink depth a bit shallow and came back today with a single flute bit that left a nice hole.
Bit size is a 82 degree 1” countersink.


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Finally finished all the little things. I had to take off alot of material at the notch for the front drive line to ensure it didn’t hit at full droop. Between the doubler and my lower pinion angle the drive line runs fairly low accross the front of the skid.
No vibrations or other strange noises. How ever I am liking how smooth the new motor mounts are.
 
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Rather than research Stroker motors and V8 swaps I decided to work on the Jeep. I had been putting off looking into my fuel gauge accuracy issue as well as cutting the vent tube to allow the full 19 gallons into my tank. Was going to wait until I ordered a Savvy skid. However since I can’t figure out my long term engine plans and rear axle location plans I decided to stick with my Warn skid. No sense spending the money on the Savvy skid when a cell may be in the future.
So out came the tank.
I read somewhere that between the filler and vent lines there was a 15 or 19 stamped to identify which filler assembly it is. Also the level sending unit is marked as a 15 as well. My level sending unit has seen much better days so the search for a replacement begins.


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Rather than research Stroker motors and V8 swaps I decided to work on the Jeep. I had been putting off looking into my fuel gauge accuracy issue as well as cutting the vent tube to allow the full 19 gallons into my tank. Was going to wait until I ordered a Savvy skid. However since I can’t figure out my long term engine plans and rear axle location plans I decided to stick with my Warn skid. No sense spending the money on the Savvy skid when a cell may be in the future.
So out came the tank.
I read somewhere that between the filler and vent lines there was a 15 or 19 stamped to identify which filler assembly it is. Also the level sending unit is marked as a 15 as well. My level sending unit has seen much better days so the search for a replacement begins.


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I've got a sending unit that might be in a little better shape. I read pretty accurate with the 24 gallon tank I had. I'll snap some pictures of it tomorrow. It's yours for the cost of shipping.
 
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I've got a sending unit that might be in a little better shape. I read pretty accurate with the 24 gallon tank I had. I'll snap some pictures of it tomorrow. It's yours for the cost of shipping.
I ordered a Delphi unit a bit ago. Last tank I removed to replace the sending unit the pump didn’t work when I got everything back installed in the car. Lol. So with 175,000 on the clock on no idea when it was ever replaced I figured now was a good time to swap the pump too. Thank you for the offer.
 
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I ordered a Delphi unit a bit ago. Last tank I removed to replace the sending unit the pump didn’t work when I got everything back installed in the car. Lol. So with 175,000 on the clock on no idea when it was ever replaced I figured now was a good time to swap the pump too. Thank you for the offer.

OK. Yep mine doesn't have that many miles in it but it's 24 years old.
 
I also installed some new Moog bushings in the rear RC track bar. After getting the bar reinstalled and axle centered I checked it with a tape measure. Then stepped back a ways behind the Jeep for a final approval as if to insure the tape measure didn’t lie. I noticed my Jeep had a tiny bit of a cant or lean. I thought it was odd. I checked my axles for square and center, all was ok. A bit later I disconnected my front sway bar to check something. When I went to reinstall I noticed the passenger side link was long by 3/8”. I checked the SB links for length. They were both set even. A few more measurements confirmed my sway bar is bent about 3/8”. Not sure how that happens or how common it is. I adjusted the links so they both slide on under no load. After that was all situated I found myself behind the Jeep again. The slight lean was no longer there. Everything appears very level. Kind of crazy what 3/8” worth of front sway bar load does to a Jeep.
 
Nice work, with your welding skills another big payback mod is the tie-rod flip.
I like that one too. But think I will skip it for now. As I finally seem to be coming up with a long term plan for my Jeep. After I finish swapping my control arm joints all over to Currie I will start collecting parts for my Magnum swap. From there will probably be a axles upgrade and big tires. None of which will be happening in a short time frame.
 
My fuel pump assembly will be here tomorrow. So figured I would test fit my newly remodeled skid plate. I removed the front corner mount and some excess material in that area to improve track bar clearance while I was at it.
Seems to fit perfect. That added 1” clearance is substantial.

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