Sarah the Sahara—More expensive than a divorce—LR4—NV3550 Conversion

[motomick76]

Another short fall of the TJ is the electrical system. There is not a lot of room to add on accessories. There are several things I wanted to add on:
- Fog/Spot/Rock lights
- Electric fan control
- Two amplifiers - one for components and one for subwoofer
- Various 12v outlets
- CB radio / communication equipment
- ADE Security System
- Headlight wiring upgrade

Some of the parts i got to make this happen:
- Blue Sea fuse block
- 10GA wire
- 14GA wire
- 1/4" split loom
- 1/2" split loom
- 12V relay with harness
- ADE relay
- Various wire connectors

I wanted the Blue Sea fuse block to be easily accessible inside the Jeep, and it fit prefect next to the existing fuse block. I proceeded to put together a wire diagram for what and where i wanted accessories, and installed the wiring.

 

[motomick76]

Upgrading the stereo consisted of:
- Pioneer DEH 6600BT head unit
- Alpine KTP 445U amplifier
- Alpine MRV-MV250 amplifier
- Polk Audio DB 5251 component kit
- Polk Audio DB 6501 component kit
- Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8” subwoofer
- Pioneer UDSW200D box

I installed the KTP 445U just behind the head unit. The 5251 components went in the dash. High priority for me was to retain the factory look, and have no components exposed. As a solution, i installed the tweeters inside the vent ducts on each side. The crossovers were installed just behind the 5-1/4" components. Both the 5-1/4" and 6-1/2" components have foam enclosures and filled with poly-fill foam. The MRV-250 amplifier is mounted under the steering column, as depicted in this thread. The sub box fits nicely where the storage is in the center console. Measured and cut hole for the sub-woofer.

 

[Wildman]

Wow you really had that thing torn down..... I've never had the whole dash off like that before. Makes me think maybe I should while I have mine torn down. Give me a chance to clean up wiring plus move a few things.

 

[motomick76]

Wow you really had that thing torn down..... I've never had the whole dash off like that before. Makes me think maybe I should while I have mine torn down. Give me a chance to clean up wiring plus move a few things.

Yes, well all the stuff I added on, it was much easier doing it this way. The dash is actually pretty easy to get out, like most items.

 

[IPerkWVU]

Nice, I like the hidden tweeters!

 

[motomick76]

I added two sets of external lights, rock lights, fan control, OBA, and winch controls. Chosen was a 2003+ switch panel which I had the defrost, rear wiper, fog/spot lights, and boost gauge. The rest of the controls I installed on the console - winch, fan, rock lights, and OBA.

The electric fan does have a thermostat which turns it on an off, but I also wanted to manually turn it on if there was any other issues. So I interfaced a relay, with the thermostat running through the NC position, and then when I switch it on, it opens the thermostat circuit and powers fan on.

I chose a Smitty XO2 10,000 winch, and has a useful wireless remote. It was recommended by a friend of mine to install controls in the cab, so I installed some.

Also on list of items was to change:
- Shifter ball
- Shifter boot
- Transfer case ball

I got some round stock, threaded it to M10 x 1.50, cut the old handle off, welded on my round stock, and installed ball. I like the cleaned up look and the shifter and xfer case match.

Switches purchased are:
- Winch power / winch direction
- Fan switch
- Rock lights
- OBA

 

[motomick76]

In February 2018, I decided to take the biggest leap yet. Dump the 4.0 and go LS. I wanted to keep the NV3550, but also upgrade from 231 to a 241OR case. This combination does not lend a lot of options, as it is usually much easier to go with the LS and 4L60 combo.

I narrowed down my choice to a 4.8 or 5.3 from a truck/van, between the years 2000 to 2002. Main reasons for me:
- Cost: They can be found relatively inexpensive, and very common, lots of parts available
- Truck/van have the long intake runners, which are able to make more torque down low, and smooth like a 4.0
- Still uses standard throttle body, which throttle cable can attach to

Searching Craigslist I found someone selling a 4.8 w/ standalone harness RTR, purchased from Tildon. He got it for a project, but found out a V8 would not work. $1850 was the price and I pulled the trigger. I had a motor, full standalone harness only needing 12V and ground, computer flash, and transmission delete. Perfect for my project.
Next problem, how to mate the LS and NV3550. There are several ways, most common are from Novak or Advance Adapters. I chose to go with the Novak 375 plate. This allows the NV3550 to mate to the GM block without changing anything on the bell-housing or block. Clutch / flywheel setup remains standard 10.5" GM, and to make clutch work is a Novak adjustable throw-out bearing. The stock clutch actuator is retained. Final detail is the pilot bearing, Novak #PB-3901357. Mounting motor to frame are a set of Dave's Unlimited motor mounts.

Soon after finding the LS, I found a 241OR, but with one caveat, it was from a JK. A plus was that it had a Teraflex 2WD low kit installed and 1310 yokes on both ends. Main disadvantage with JK case is no speed output like the TJ cases. At $1250, I pulled the trigger on the case and would figure out speed output later. This project is starting to come together quickly.

The LS in the garage was a bit dirty. I started washing it down and noticed a-lot of rust in the water pump. Digging deeper led me to take all accessories off, then valve covers, then the heads. As I dug deeper, more issues I noticed. There was deep pitting on the deck around water jackets, the rings on piston were stuck, cam bearings worn past the babbit, and it was obvious the oil was not changed regularly. It was not in my plan to have to re-build the engine, but initial investment was done. I was already in, and in the end I knew what I had in the engine.

 

[motomick76]

I am not much on anybody working or building anything for me, but rebuilding an LS does require some specialized tools. So I had to start making a new list, parts I wanted to replace and tooling needed. I basically decided to make everything fresh on the motor.

Items replaced:
- Rebuilt heads
- Summit 8712 Cam
- BBK SS Shorty Headers #40205
- New - main bearings, rod bearings, rings, lifters, water pump, all sensors, plugs/wires, and gaskets
- Machine shop - clean, magnaflux, polish crank, deck block
- New 10.5" flywheel and Luk clutch
- ARP head bolts, flywheel/clutch bolts, crank pulley bolt

Some tooling needed:
- LS crank pulley remover
- LS crank pulley installer
- LS flywheel holding tool
- Angle torque gauge

There are several different options for headers that will work with LS conversion. The stock truck manifolds will not work as they hit the firewall. Some go with a block hugger center dump, or LS3 headers. I chose the LS3 as they dump towards back of motor, straight down.

At this point I quit counting how much I was spending, but the machine shop work was $500, then all parts was between $2500 to $3500.

 

[motomick76]

Before I sent it off the machine shop, I set the motor mounts, clearanced the firewall, and made any other mods to make block fit. The motor mounts from Dave's are easy to install. Just wack off old mounts and steering joint mount, place tabs in holes, and weld mounts in place. Can not really mess it up. The firewall does require some bashing to make room of the heads. Also I had to move the steering joint into the inner fender and cut the inner fender to fit.

 

[Wildman]

Very very nice looking. Plus I like the looks of your headers. A lot better than the block huggers that I am using right now. But seeing that makes me wonder if I might be able to snake some of the different brands of headers along side my engine and the frame.

 

[motomick76]

The LS is not nearly as long as the I6, so the transmission moves forward a few inches. This created an issue with the shifter hitting to console and the dash. My only solution was to hack the handle and put in a piece of flat plate, and move handle back. There was a couple of renditions until I got it right.

 

[motomick76]

Switching over from the 231 the 241OR created a few new issues. Because the case has a larger planetary set, it hits the trans mount. So I needed to rebuild the mount to not interfere with the case, and drill new holes in the skid to make it work.

 

[motomick76]

Very very nice looking. Plus I like the looks of your headers. A lot better than the block huggers that I am using right now. But seeing that makes me wonder if I might be able to snake some of the different brands of headers along side my engine and the frame.

Thanks! Some conversions the drivers exhaust can be run straight back and couple them together behind the xfer case. I could not with my setup, there is zero space with the UCF and 241. My only choice to run the drivers exhaust was to go in front of oil pan to passenger side and couple them together just before the skid. The bends and space is VERY tight, once over to the passenger, piece of cake. I do not have any pictures currently, but I am going to have a thread on my exhaust and have some pictures posted. It may sound crazy, but I spent 4 days putting together the exhaust, but it looks good, goes all the way back, and all mandrel bends.

 

[motomick76]

This spring I got the motivation to see this project to the end. I got the motor back from the machine shop, and the assembly began. As in previous post, all new internals were installed. Taking my time, everything went smooth.

 

[motomick76]

Next came the flywheel, clutch, and the Novak adapter. All were pretty simple to install.

 

[motomick76]

Time for install! Alot of pictures are to show clearances around the engine when installed.

 

[motomick76]

At this time I also installed a Savvy cable shifter kit. There was a lot of time involved adjusting the shifter, mainly because of the extra slot for 2WD low. Definitely a must have, shifts smooth and solid.

 

[motomick76]

To make the JK241 work with the TJ harness for the 4WD light, a change in the switch is in order. A WVE 1S4219 switch and AC Delco PT724 connector is needed. Cut TJ connector and install the Delco, remove the JK switch and install the WVE. Polarity does not matter, as it is a floating ground circuit.

 

[motomick76]

Upon final install of the case, there was some clearance issues on the drivers side just under the seat. I little caressing was needed for the tub.

 

[NDSpeed]

That kind of expertise is what I need to finish my swap. Your finish touches are nice.