Sarah the Sahara—More expensive than a divorce—LR4—NV3550 Conversion

[motomick76]

There are several ways to get fuel to the LS. TJ's have a 5/16" (8AN) fuel, and no return. This generation of LS has a 3/8" (6AN) feed, and 5/16" (8AN) return. Some other LS have a return-less system, so pay attention to which one you have. The TJ fuel pump also cannot handle the LS needs and there are several ways to tackle this too.

I chose to go with a 05-06 TJ fuel pump, which can deliver the minimum 55psi needed for the LS. Airtex E7200M is almost a drop in replacement. There is a index tab that must be cut off and the 00' harness will not plug directly in the pump. A bit of modification was needed to make it work.

Fuel line I chose to go with Russel 6AN Pro Classic Hose and Russel adapters. I kept the TJ 5/16" for the return line and got adapters from the TJ line to the LS motor. I chose a bulkhead adapter into the fuel tank for the return.

 

[NDSpeed]

View attachment 173531

Is that the original 2000 fuel tank.

I installed a Dodge Ram fuel nozzle to remove the restrictive gas line to accommodate the larger diameter diesel nozzles at the fuel pump.

but my rubber hoses (Overflow line) look amateur in that i stuffed them into each other. To create the step down

 

[motomick76]

With the fuel and tank installed, I started on putting back together the front end. Both fenders, grille, headlights, were put back. Since I eliminated the TJ PCM, I got rid of any extra wiring and connectors that were not being used. I spent a couple of days just studying the wiring diagrams, noting what I would need and eliminate. If you are not at all familiar with reading diagrams and understanding what you may keep and get rid of, I recommend on getting some help. I spent another couple of days cutting all of the tape and looms, separating, splicing, and making changes for my setup. This is something that will be different with every build, so I cannot say what will work with your setup.

With motor in the final position, I could plug everything into the motor, and start routing and splicing the GM harness to the TJ harness. The GM custom harness just needs power, there are two outputs for electric fans, OBD, engine temp, engine light, and rpm. Also engine oil pressure and coolant temp will need to be configured, and I had that wiring spliced in also. I spliced the GM OBD into the TJ OBD, and careful analysis will be needed, and the output connector pins are different than the GM unit.

There was 2-3 days spent meshing the GM to the TJ. I recommend to not rush, and take your time. Write notes, have diagrams, as it is easy to get lost in the wiring. The GM PCM was installed over the battery with a bracket I made myself. On top of that is the GM fuse block included in the harness.

With the wiring completed, I started on another project - sound deaden the interior. Research led me to Noico mat, not as expensive as the Dynamat brand.
- Noico Black 80mm - 2 boxes
- Noico Red 150mm - 4 boxes
- Noico roller

This much will totally cover the interior floor and back area, with some to spare. I gutted the interior, scrubbed it down to make it as clean as possible, and started with the 80mm. Once that was done, I laid down the 150mm. Also with this, take your time. I spent 3 days doing this, but driving down the road, this is one of the favorite things I have done. Being able to have a conversation and listen to the radio and not feel like you are in a tin box.

Again, I did not take any pictures, but it is pretty easy to do.

Also, I found some electrical tape that looks like the OEM tape and has cloth feel to it. It is my new favorite automotive tape.

 

[NDSpeed]

I’ve just been sitting on my butt enjoying the super short Alaskan summer. The j1939 gives me the info I need. Just be easier to read gauges if they were in front of my face.


Edited: to not take away from this build

 

[motomick76]

Is that the original 2000 fuel tank.

I installed a Dodge Ram fuel nozzle to remove the restrictive gas line to accommodate the larger diameter diesel nozzles at the fuel pump.

but my rubber hoses (Overflow line) look amateur in that i stuffed them into each other. To create the step down

NDSpeed - Yes it is the original 2000 tank. The fitting on the pump is a 6AN slip.

 

[motomick76]

One issue I still had lingering, speed measurement. I had no output on my JK case. Research led me to Speedhut gauges. Their gauges use GPS for speed measurement, perfect for my setup. They can be customized to your needs.

My setup consists of:
- Speedhut Speedometer 3-3/8"
- Speedhut Tachometer 3-3/8"
- Speedhut Fuel 2-1/16"
- Speedhut Volt 2-1/16"
- Speedhut Temp 2-1/16"
- Speedhut Oil 2-1/16"
- Auto Meter TJ Gauge Pod

I liked that the Auto Meter setup had lights for the high beam, tun signals, 4WD, engine, and park. Again, a lot of time was taken cutting the OEM plugs, separating the wires, tracing, etc to make the lights and gauges work. To make the connection from the dash to gauge pod, I used this connector. Also needed is good crimp tool.

 

[motomick76]

Moving on to the cooling system, I chose a Superior radiator. They make aluminum radiators specifically for TJ/LS swap that drop right in. Also have built in electric fan. Very nice quality, and fitment was great.

To make cooling system work:
- Superior TJ/LS radiator
- Gates heater hose - 28480 and 28471
- Napa 9840 hose - Upper
- Gates 71316 hose - Lower

All of the hoses will need a bit of trimming to work, otherwise fit great. Also do not forget the radiator does not come with a cap, standard TJ cap will work.

 

[motomick76]

The GM power steering will plug right in the TJ setup. Just pay close attention to the hoses when they pass by the PS pulley. They do get close. I zip tied them out of the way.

 

[motomick76]

I’ve just been sitting on my butt enjoying the super short Alaskan summer. The j1939 gives me the info I need. Just be easier to read gauges if they were in front of my face.


Edited: to not take away from this build

One thing I do not like about the Auto Meter is the gauges are too far forward and separated, and the steering wheel cuts off the viewing of them. I did not want to hack up the OEM setup, as I want to sell it. There could have been a bit more thought put into it for the price.

 

[motomick76]

Time comes when I am about to start it, and I took a look under Sarah. The oil pan is sticking out waiting to get bashed. Being from a truck, these pans are extra deep. So the hunt for a shallow pan started.
- LS low profile oil pan
- LS baffle kit

Trim work to the wind-age tray is required, otherwise it was a perfect fit. Also I went with a baffle kit to keep the engine well lubed.

Almost forgot to mention the throttle cable. A cable for a 98-99 Camaro will work well.

 

[motomick76]

Now its time for the fun part. Fill the fluids, and fire this bitch up! Here is the first run. I have not built the exhaust yet. Pictures are just for reference if anyone is interested. I had no issues, electrically or mechanically.

 

[Wildman]

WOW you have a lot of room between the engine and radiator. What is the reasoning for setting the engine so far back? Yes I realize that the transmission shifter would be even farther forward of where it is.
I don't have anywhere near as much room between the front of my engine and radiator. My motor mounts were placed where AA recommends and if you are going with a manual transmission it is forward more also.

Your attention to detail is amazing and the Jeep looks awesome.

 

[NDSpeed]

Agreed. How he made everything look Like it belongs there!

fantastic job.

I can barely remember what I did yesterday much less a write up covering 5 years of progress

 

[Nickgsjeep]

Amazing work

 

[motomick76]

WOW you have a lot of room between the engine and radiator. What is the reasoning for setting the engine so far back? Yes I realize that the transmission shifter would be even farther forward of where it is.
I don't have anywhere near as much room between the front of my engine and radiator. My motor mounts were placed where AA recommends and if you are going with a manual transmission it is forward more also.

Your attention to detail is amazing and the Jeep looks awesome.

Wildman, thank you! Am I to assume that you used Advance Adapter mounts? I used Dave's Custom mounts. It seemed like a well though out product, and worked out well. I installed per Dave's instructions, and they did say i would need to bash the firewall, as I showed in previous pictures. I did not intentionally move it forward or back. I am sure different company's have different ideas on proper placement of motor.

 

[Wildman]

Wildman, thank you! Am I to assume that you used Advance Adapter mounts? I used Dave's Custom mounts. It seemed like a well though out product, and worked out well. I installed per Dave's instructions, and they did say i would need to bash the firewall, as I showed in previous pictures. I did not intentionally move it forward or back. I am sure different company's have different ideas on proper placement of motor.

Yes I have AA mounts and they have their recommended placement for my engine. A lot of the guys who do the Dodge magnum swap that want to keep their manual trans move the engine back similar to how yours sits. And they have to dimple the firewall also. If you are running a auto trans you can move the engine farther forward for better firewall clearance but you run into other clearance issues. I know we aren't talking the same engines I was just trying to figure out why they don't have you set the engine farther forward. You have the room to do it but I'm sure there is a logical reason. Once I have mine back together I'll post some pictures for you. On the one radiator I installed I had to cut the threads off the water pump to make it all work things were that close.

 

[motomick76]

Yes I have AA mounts and they have their recommended placement for my engine. A lot of the guys who do the Dodge magnum swap that want to keep their manual trans move the engine back similar to how yours sits. And they have to dimple the firewall also. If you are running a auto trans you can move the engine farther forward for better firewall clearance but you run into other clearance issues. I know we aren't talking the same engines I was just trying to figure out why they don't have you set the engine farther forward. You have the room to do it but I'm sure there is a logical reason. Once I have mine back together I'll post some pictures for you. On the one radiator I installed I had to cut the threads off the water pump to make it all work things were that close.

Very interesting to know there is such a variance in motor placement. I do actually have a clearance issue that you cannot see, and I only noticed it when I was doing the exhaust. The Dana 30 is trussed, and under full compression, the crank pulley is 1/8" away from top of truss. I did find an under-drive pulley, it was difficult because my accessory setup is for the truck/van line. So there is not a lot of support. Jeggs has this pulley, which I will order and install when I get back home. I would hate for the axle to come in contact with the pulley .

When I was doing the exhaust, I bolted a plate to the floor and used my winch to cinch suspension down so I knew my clearances when building the drivers side exhaust, and I saw the crank pulley issue.

 

[Wildman]

I don't know a lot about LS swaps since when I did mine it was a NEW idea and not done a lot. The Dodge magnum V-8 is not as efficient as the LS but at the time was a economical swap. But I did mine back in 2005 and the LS engines were like Hemi engines as far as prices went.

The way you dealt with the shifter is how guys that keep their manual trans do it also. I am sort of in a holding pattern right now waiting for my engine to get back from the machine shop before I can start on the front suspension on mine. I need to set the engine into the frame and see what clearance issues I am going to run into. Then I can figure out where I need to place my front axle. I don't have a truss but do have a HP44 so it is larger than your Dana 30.

 

[Ephry73]

Inspirational for sure!

 

[motomick76]

I don't know a lot about LS swaps since when I did mine it was a NEW idea and not done a lot. The Dodge magnum V-8 is not as efficient as the LS but at the time was a economical swap. But I did mine back in 2005 and the LS engines were like Hemi engines as far as prices went.

The way you dealt with the shifter is how guys that keep their manual trans do it also. I am sort of in a holding pattern right now waiting for my engine to get back from the machine shop before I can start on the front suspension on mine. I need to set the engine into the frame and see what clearance issues I am going to run into. Then I can figure out where I need to place my front axle. I don't have a truss but do have a HP44 so it is larger than your Dana 30.

I recommend rechecking clearances when you get it together. I do not know how the 44 in size affects the clearance. If I did not have the truss, I would have 2-3 inches. I could just add 1/2 to 1" to the bumpstop, but I do not want to take away from the uptravel, so I am going with a smaller pulley.

Which 44 did you choose? One from a old Cherokee?

I was brought up on Mopars, and thought the Magnums were pretty good when they came out. Reality, they are a polished old turd like 4.0. They are reliable, proven, but heavy pigs. I was never a Cheby fan, but the LS platform has convinced me, GM did their homework, and it has shown. Efficient, expandable, adaptable, reliable, you have to try really hard to mess up a LS.

I am sure alot of ideas and methods have changed from 2005 to 2018 when I bought the parts. With anything, there is continual evolution. I know as soon as I am done with one thing on Sarah, i am moving towards the next item i want to do.