01 TJ 32RH swap into a 92 YJ 4.0 with an AX-15

joejedenast

joejedenast

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Hello all, I just subscribed to the forum. I realize this is a TJ forum but, over the years my 92 YJ 4.0 has morphed, it's a bit of a Frankenstein.
My next modification is to remove the stock AX15, and replace it with a 32RH auto from a 2001 TJ.
I've already purchased it along with; flexplate, inspection cover, kick down cable along with mounting brackets, cps, torque converter bolts, transmission mount, pedal assembly, shifter with center counsel and shift cable. All from the same 2001 donor vehicle. Oh and a trans cooler.
My question is regarding the torque converter lock out relay. Of course the YJ ECM won't communicate with the 32RH. Would it be possible to use the ECM from the donor vehicle? Or, would I just be better off running a toggle switch to the TCC? And lastly if I did use the toggle switch at what speed would I energize the TCC to lock out the torque convertor?
 
Found this thread on a different forum. Sounds like he'd be someone you might want to talk to.

https://bit.ly/342wsYz
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07-28-2018, 05:20 PM
Thread Starter
#1​
Garrylazeryes
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 15		Tj manual to 32rh info and t/c lock up
For anyone who's doing the conversion, I thought I'd make a thread with a few things that I couldn't find that might help someone else.

First off I had a 98 4.0 5 speed. I used a trans from 2002, I got the trans in pretty simple, here are a few things to think about. First I didn't have a dust cover of the torque converter because It didn't come with one but I was still able to bolt it all together; only issue I found with this was the starter motor didn't sound too happy because it didn't have the trans shim but made no difference I also had a brand new flex plate.

If you have a custom belly pan the auto does not bolt to the same position it is shorter even though I read on a build here saying it was the same length so keep an eye on your rear tail shaft. You'll also need the stepping plate from the standard skid plate depending on your set up.

The manual transfer case has a shorter input shaft on the t case, you can either use the input shaft from the auto t case or buy a extended seal, I was lucky to already have a auto tcase somehow but I was just going to swap the input as it's a 1/2 hr job.

You need to use the automatic t case shifter bracket and bottom linkage. Because of the length difference.

When you are running your cables, make sure the tv cable runs up the passenger side or you'll find your gears fluctuating between 2-3. The tv connects to the manual throttle body where the spring that connects to the bracket with a grey connector. To adjust the tv cable all you do it remove the white retainer clip as it is spring adjusted once you remove it you just put the clip back in. The tv doesn't have and play or any preload on it to shift properly.
I didn't use the brake cable the locks the gear shifter.

With the wiring there is a plug that works the same with the manual and automatic trans this senses the p,n and reverse lights, this has a small loom on the manual harness that you remove and plugs to another loom that should be supplied with the trans. For the lock up you'll see a small round 2 wire plug just remove the plug and plug it into the trans.

So this is the part I couldn't find any info on.. I'm running my manual ecu as the trans is hydraulic controlled by the tv cable, only thing the manual ecu doesn't have is the ability to control the lock up. I used a 8 pin rocker switch and wired it backwards so it will have a negative out put rather than positive. So I ran a wire from that switch to my ecu loom, on the white plug (centre) I traced down pin no. 11 that controls the lock up. I cut that wire and directly connected my wire from the switch to that. There are two wire going to the torque converter lock up one is fused 12v already there (red and green), and the other wire pin no. 11 is a negative that the ecu puts out when it's time to lock up. The wire is orange and green you can run a wire directly to the plug if wanted, if you run 12v to it nothing will happen because you'll just be making a pointless loop.

Whe removing the pilot bearing and bushing I had to drill it out by drill 3 sets of holes, make sure you have a strong magnetic because a lot of shaving come out.

That's all I can think of, other than the manual dowl pin bolts are longer and the fly wheel bolts are longer for the manual.
I did this complete conversion by myself in 9 hrs having all the parts ready from the donee vehicle.
 
You can run the transmission without the TC lockup, it won't know any different and just run a little warmer and about 200-300 rpm higher. If you do want to use lockup, the wiring diagram shows that the TJ ecu is supplying ground to the TCC circuit, so you could activate it with a toggle. Mine would typically engage under light to moderate throttle about five seconds after going into third gear unless I was really on the gas. Warning: if it ever downshifts under heavy load or you forget to disengage it while slowing down I'm not sure what kind of bad things might happen in the transmission with the TC locked up.

Edit: I'm actually looking to install a reverse manual valve body in mine, so this is one of the many things I've been trying to sort out. Someone in the linked thread above made some good points about integrating the TCC into the brake switch to disengage it incase of a panic stop, and made a good point about the cruise control as well.
 
Last edited:
GASnBRASS said:
You can run the transmission without the TC lockup, it won't know any different and just run a little warmer and about 200-300 rpm higher. If you do want to use lockup, the wiring diagram shows that the TJ ecu is supplying ground to the TCC circuit, so you could activate it with a toggle. Mine would typically engage under light to moderate throttle about five seconds after going into third gear unless I was really on the gas. Warning: if it ever downshifts under heavy load or you forget to disengage it while slowing down I'm not sure what kind of bad things might happen in the transmission with the TC locked up.

Edit: I'm actually looking to install a reverse manual valve body in mine, so this is one of the many things I've been trying to sort out. Someone in the linked thread above made some good points about integrating the TCC into the brake switch to disengage it incase of a panic stop, and made a good point about the cruise control as well.
Click to expand...
For the purpose of the OP
The only problem with wiring a direct switch is you would need to remember to disengage it before you come to a complete stop. I don't think there would be any issue with driving with it locked up while it shifts through the gears other than the shifts will be considerably harder without the cushioning effect provided by the unlocked converter. That would lead to more wear on the rest of the drive line. There are all kinds of lockup control modules for more popular transmissions that basically do the same thing other than they tie into the existing computer controls and automatically unlock the converter below a certain speed.
 
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