02 modified TJ, I don’t know where its going rebuild
- Thread starter HWNPUNCH
- Start date
Made a little progress today, just as i suspected, exhaust drop is a challenge. The t-case needs to be removed, to remove exhaust out in one piece.
Mentioned to shop about fixing seal with t-case in place, no waisting your time he said. He wants it to fix right.
I better get a jack under tranny before I go to bed. I guess there was an earthquake today when I was wrestling with the exhaust. I did not feel it, wife did.
Mentioned to shop about fixing seal with t-case in place, no waisting your time he said. He wants it to fix right.
I better get a jack under tranny before I go to bed. I guess there was an earthquake today when I was wrestling with the exhaust. I did not feel it, wife did.
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Most folks that used the polyurethane style transmission mounts or motor mounts end up replacing them due to excessive vibrations. You're better off to get a stock rubber style mount instead.
Thanks, I had to check out for while, hurt my left forearm wrenching on Jeep. I had to step away from all of it for a bit.
I got back at it today, finally got a-arm out and long arm. I decided to cut tail pipe off , pulled exhaust to get clearance to remove a-arm bolt. Uniball soaking in kroil, hopefully get it out tomorrow. Rear axle is back, feels as if there is no pinion bearing preload, turns to easy, I have mentioned anything to him yet.
I still on the fence post on removing t-case at this time, not sure if I want him to service the t-case. I may need to find a second opinion on what he has done to diff. New avatar is Joshua Tree, one of my favorites. Good 4x4 trail there. I did not take pics today, tomorrow hopefully.
Sorry man. I know it's kinda a cliche by now, but it's hard to find good help. At least you know you care enough to do a satisfactory job on all this, even if it's sometimes difficult.
Catch-up photos. I managed to remove snap ring for uni-ball. More kroil soaking tonight, not sure if my little press will get it out. Clean up passenger longarm and shock removed paint over spray on shaft and blue parts. May try a little navel jelly on shock body, might clean up, think its mild stainless steel. Now to diff, first photo of pinion nut with white marks and wrench on yoke is my work, rotation torque in spec for fresh bearings, near 20 inch pounds. Second photo his work, with lock tight and rotation torque 2 inch pounds ? Backlash good, which I know was bad, why he messed with pinion, I don't know. Pinion thread looks trashed, thus why locktite?, not sure if I should try to torque more? I do not feel comfortable installing this as is, he wants $300.00 for this?………..NOT!
Not sure how to approach this guy. I am glad that I didn’t remove axle seals, get it dipped and put on a jig my butt. So…to fix correct? New ring and pinion set?
Have not run a pattern yet.
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Had a chat with mechanic, good as it gets with pinion thread condition, it has been reworked to many times, this the last. Marching on with what i have.
He mentioned an 8.8 he has in his yard, for the future.
You'd have to decide what you want out of the Jeep and like many other things we've discussed what your future plans are for it. The 8.8 swap was popular prior to the Super35 kits coming out. The 8.8 comes with 31 spline axles shafts, so larger & maybe stronger than a Super35 or Dana 44. The popular 8.8 that was swapped in came with disc brakes. Now the downside is it's a larger & heavier axle. By larger I mean it hangs down more. It's also 1" narrower than your Dana 35.
And then if you don't have the skills or tools to cut the old brackets off & weld the new brackets on it can be expensive.
I just want it reliable for the trail.
Do you think it will be ok with current preload. For a while? I was looking at 8.8 complete at east coast, they recommend a 489. 8.8 being phased out.
Anyhow I got the uni-ball out of a-arm today so far.
I didn’t think my little bicycle headset tool would work, it did, trashing two hole saws, used heat a gun, hammering and squirting PB blaster.Not sure what to do as far as finish, bead blast, powder coat? I haven’t gotten a quote for powder coat in while.
Next major hurdle, removing T-case, got more room now for that op.
I totally understand that.
I'm a little worried about that preload but can't tell you if it'll survive or not. I guess push comes to shove here are your options as I see them:
1) Buy/build a 8.8.
2) Buy the 489 axle from ECGS... One thing to note, there have been a few forum members who bought axles from them where the brackets were either installed incorrectly or had clearance issues. So they had to either return the axle or fix the issue. So I'd make sure what the return policy is or buy it without brackets and have them installed locally.
3) Buy a new set of gears for your Super35
4) Watch for a pair of Dana 44 (Rubicon axles) to come up for sale locally that have gearing you want
Not sure about powder coating it since, think you'd have clearance issues with the parts once coated.
A half moon wrench really helps to get at some of the nuts for the t-case. Have you looked at a cable shifter for your t-case while you've got everything apart?
I don’t think it will survive, not the way I drive, tend to push toys hard.
I will go for option three for now, the mechanic mentioned he spent 3 hours to get it where it is now. I have not paid him yet for work done I can see if we can work something out if I give him t-case, new ring and pinion install. I also did not get a new seal housing yet for the ARB. I am in no hurry now, just earn and save up for all that.
I will just paint with a-arm, truss, long arms with rustoleum, get springs blasted and powder paint. Shock bodies, not sure yet, just paint I guess. I wish I measured shock length at ride height. I am not sure, but it doesn’t take too much force to close. I wondering if I should go buy new set now as well. Another ouch.
I did not get a good photo of t-case linkage, have to go back out, but its mechanical linkage not cable.
The cable shifter replaces the mechanical linkage which can have issues if you have or add a body lift plus they wear over time. The cable shifter is just smoother and a better fit.
https://savvyoffroad.com/231-transfer-case-cable-shifter-kit-for-np-231/
https://savvyoffroad.com/231-transfer-case-cable-shifter-kit-for-np-231/
If you are thinking about replacing the rear axle I think I might save for the new rear axle instead of just replacing the R&P... Just my $0.02 worth... And I enjoy helping others spend their money...
Read up on how to properly size a shock. There is more than one thread of the subject.
Yes, a fence post I must get off, trust my mechanic buddy that the 35 will last for a while. From what threads I read so far, shock length sitting, full extension, collapse, and lift height sure there is more. I will check out King, I find FOX hard to deal with on my bicycle suspension fork and rear shock issues. Fab-tech no longer rebuilds the “older style” Shocks I have.
Just going paint shock bodies they are fine for now.
For reference
Tools 13/16 ratchet box end, 9/16” half moon wrench
VHT Roll bar paint $16.00 rattle can
Black Flex seal spray $14.00 rattle can
Prothane grease, poly-ball bushings $70.00? Cheaper equivalent?
CRC dry PTFE lube, uni-ball $25.00
New ring and pinion $210.85 USA standard gear, Amazon.
New e-brake cables?
Savvy cable cost? $150.00?
T-case parts labor? Should I give it a whirl?
Tranny mount $50.00?
Exhaust rework, muffler exit to tail pipe union, parts shop labor cost? Very last
Rear Drive shaft $430.00*
Now one thing I did not due is get the t-case in neutral which is stated to do in manual. Is there any reason why I should not pull the case if not in neutral?
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I looked up half moon wrench, I do not recall ever seeing one, I see how it would help. Think those are 9/16” nuts on t-case.
Degreased parts with ZEP, warm water and brass brush, followed with pressure wash. A-arm bushings did not have grease fittings installed. I have not closely checked the condition of bushings yet, they appear ok.
Not sure how springs come fab-tech, appear to have been powder painted red already, more shall be revealed. I will paint a-arm and long arm members with VHT satin black roll-bar/chassis paint. Springs? I have read a bunch of threads on what paint to use for coil springs, opinions varied.
I just have not mustered the energy to pull t-case yet. I am not at peace with the DANA 35 as is. I am leaning towards ordering new ring/ pinion set and pinion install kit, Order new seal housing and inner seals for ARB to be functional again. The axle is out, I can lift it up on horses (the one benefit of Dana 35 is not that heavy) and do it myself again, be a lot easier than sitting on jack stands as I tried before. I decided to keep Dana 35, no future rear axle upgrade.
If you're keeping the Dana 35 (Super35) then I'd replace the R&P....
I'd always thought FabTech stuff was painted Blue but it's been years since I ever looked at any of their stuff.
I will, ordering ring pinion next month. Amazon, USA standard gear for $210.00 gear set only.
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