04 LJK Repair, Redo, Recycle - The 3 R's of a First Build

I did hit a bit of a snaggle, which basically means I won't run the metal cloak fenders when I wheel. I do actually like them for sliding against obstacles. Ive been considering switching to savvy corners (aluminum) to save some weight but I think trimming the armor and removing fenders for trails should work. I could help the situation by moving my axle forward but I want my bumps and coils straight lined up and I'm already a bit forward at full bump. I'm making contact on the corner with about 1.25" of shaft showing.

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But I did get my ebrake cables ran and connected! One step closer. Summit delivery comes on Saturday so if everything goes well (and it never does) I could be about 90 percent complete with exhaust and the control arm soft line yet to complete next week.

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I also got the JL rear caliper mounted up. It does clear 17" trail ready rims so I was happy to see that! I have a full set of Jk brakes that will be for sale...

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B00mb00m said:
I did hit a bit of a snaggle, which basically means I won't run the metal cloak fenders when I wheel. I do actually like them for sliding against obstacles. Ive been considering switching to savvy corners (aluminum) to save some weight but I think this should work. I could help the situation by moving my axle forward but it want my bumps and coils straight lined up and I'm already a bit forward at full bump. I'm making contact on the corner with about 1.25" of shaft showing.

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But I did get my ebrake cables ran and connected! One step closer. Summit delivery comes on Saturday so if everything goes well (and it never does) I could be about 90 percent complete with exhaust and the control arm soft line yet to complete next week.

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Why not trim the corners?
 
Didn't have to trim much and really I can probably run the flares without too much worry. The driver side rear will kiss the fender but it will due so while also hitting shock and spring bump stops. Passenger side was perfectly centered in wheel well with no contact but I trimmed a bit front and back to give it a nice 1/2" clearance. Also I forget that real instances of Max flexure will happen with weight on tires and much less inflation.

I do have to move my reservoir off the shock body and mount on the frame so I'll need to get some weld on can mounts.

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B00mb00m said:
Didn't have to trim much and really I can probably run the flares without too much worry. The driver side rear will kiss the fender but it will due so while also hitting shock and spring bump stops. Passenger side was perfectly centered in wheel well with no contact but I trimmed a bit front and back to give it a nice 1/2" clearance. Also I forget that real instances of Max flexure will happen with weight on tires and much less inflation.

I do have to move my reservoir off the shock body and mount on the frame so I'll need to get some weld on can mounts.

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Looks great! Is that dropped out on the other side?
 
BuildBreakRepeat said:
Looks great! Is that dropped out on the other side?
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Yes thats at full flex. Full droop one side and mostly compressing the shock rubber bumpstop on the other (12" shocks).

Don't know my uptravels yet. That will depend on how the Currie springs holds me up. I do plan on dropping my spare tire off the rig as soon as I buy a trailer for wheeling and that should help but I expect to be a bit saggy as-is.
 
B00mb00m said:
Didn't have to trim much and really I can probably run the flares without too much worry. The driver side rear will kiss the fender but it will due so while also hitting shock and spring bump stops. Passenger side was perfectly centered in wheel well with no contact but I trimmed a bit front and back to give it a nice 1/2" clearance. Also I forget that real instances of Max flexure will happen with weight on tires and much less inflation.

I do have to move my reservoir off the shock body and mount on the frame so I'll need to get some weld on can mounts.

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No, you don't need to buy weld on can mounts. Buy some 1/8" thick x 3/4" wide steel strap. Then do this-

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Note that the strap touches the frame at 3 points. There are no saddles around the reservoir body, just hose clamps. It can't move, saddles are not needed.

As promised-
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mrblaine said:
No, you don't need to buy weld on can mounts. Buy some 1/8" thick x 3/4" wide steel strap. Then do this-

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Note that the strap touches the frame at 3 points. There are no saddles around the reservoir body, just hose clamps. It can't move, saddles are not needed.

As promised-
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Mrblaine in for the save! Awesome idea. Yes I have the strap material in my stock pile. That's awesome, one more thing I can get done this weekend.

My Currie bumps are in for check. They make first contact at 15/16 of shaft showing which is about 6.5" on pass side and 1" showing 6.75" driver side. I talked to Blaine he had mentioned earlier that about 1" shaft is good for when you know you'll be hitting bumps hard. I'm not sure really but typically I do hit my bumps, I like to go at a decent speed on forest roads and our logging roads here are JACKED up with potholes.

You can see my bumps are not centered equally. Ill check if the axle is centered at ride height then see if I need to move driver, that might even things out.

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B00mb00m said:
That is fucking beautiful Blaine. Nobody does this. I have been thinking about this and how you did it since you described it. I didn't picture that the pivot was below that is key.

It is such an elegant solution.
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The hard part was killing the twist that the upper lever exerts when the load comes from moving the brake lever. That is why we had to double the vertical levers and create a mini torque box.
 
mrblaine said:
The hard part was killing the twist that the upper lever exerts when the load comes from moving the brake lever. That is why we had to double the vertical levers and create a mini torque box.
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The doubling wasn't lost on me. Elegant.

The can mount works great also!

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Well since I was not able to work on the Jeep I finally got a chance to read thru your build thread. Impressive and I'm glad to see I ain't the only one with goober welds. You are getting some great advice and help from other forum members and that it great also. It's coming along very nicely, can't wait until mine is back on the trail and I can come over and hit some trails with you.
 
Wildman said:
Well since I was not able to work on the Jeep I finally got a chance to read thru your build thread. Impressive and I'm glad to see I ain't the only one with goober welds. You are getting some great advice and help from other forum members and that it great also. It's coming along very nicely, can't wait until mine is back on the trail and I can come over and hit some trails with you.
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Oh yay we're in the same goober weld club. I was actively trying to get out of that club then quit practicing to go do more real goobers on the jeep. The front was really bad lol but nothing has cracked yet.

Definitely head on over to westside I can tour you through walker and maybe reiter. I'd like to do some non death defying naches stuff.
 
B00mb00m said:
Oh yay we're in the same goober weld club. I was actively trying to get out of that club then quit practicing to go do more real goobers on the jeep. The front was really bad lol but nothing has cracked yet.

Definitely head on over to westside I can tour you through walker and maybe reiter. I'd like to do some non death defying naches stuff.
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I used to play at Reiter a lot before it was changed. I lived out between Snohomish and Monroe for a while.
Reiter is where I blew a front hub and u-joint back in 2005.
Last time I was at Reiter would be in 2006. Walker was before that.
 
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Well this half took entirely too long!!! Like 3 hours. I really like the mastercool, that you can flare in place in the rig. One thing different from the front is I did all the bending / routing / clamping in place. Used bendy wire to get approximate length and cut that off the main loop.

Onto the passenger side, then I'll bend up the stock upper line and I'll order the hose from summit.

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