04 LJK Repair, Redo, Recycle - The 3 R's of a First Build

Well.... Hmmm.... I thought the hi-lift under the trailer was going to do the trick to break the bead but that's a nope. Just crushed the base into the tire.

They really made it look easy in this video.
 
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B00mb00m said:
Well.... Hmmm.... I thought the highlight under the trailer was going to do the trick to break the bead but that's a nope. Just crushed the base into the tire.

They really made it look easy in this video.
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I don’t weigh enough to walk the bead off that easy
 
Whelp... the harbor freight tool folded like a bad hand. Strike 2. I feel like i was damn close with the Hi-lift though. I'm going to try the floor jack after work and see how that goes.
 
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B00mb00m said:
Whelp... the harbor freight tool folded like a bad hand. Strike 2. I feel like i was damn close with the Hi-lift though. I'm going to try the floor jack after work and see how that goes.
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I guess i should've expected that since i was lifting a trailer off the ground and the bead was still holding.
 
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Dude the Xb-550 BeadBuster is freaking awesome! @toximus thanks for your notes on it.

PXL_20210402_161713174.jpg
 
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jesseshoots said:
Is that thing really this easy?!

If so that's 100% worth the $250
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That's the problem, everything looks easy on youtubes. Jk gng made the hi-lift look easy too. The difference being this one really was that easy! I'm going to do a video of it.

With this tool + balance beads I *think* I have negated needing a tire shop for the jeep.
 
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B00mb00m said:
That's the problem, everything looks easy on youtubes. Jk gng made the hi-lift look easy too. The difference being this one really was that easy! I'm going to do a video of it.

With this tool + balance beads I *think* I have negated needing a tire shop for the jeep.
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Which balance beads are you going with?
 
Apparition said:
Can you fill through the stem?
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I guess I could have but I took if off the rig took the beadlock off and threw it inside the tire. It was probably twenty minutes of work but super añnoying! I was shooting for two tires mounted but I called it at 1.5 due to that little snafu.
 
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Just want to say changing tires on beadlocks is a shit ton of work. It got me wondering really how careful do I need to be on the beadlocks bolts? Like could I just use the impact driver and be good? That would save a Lot of time. Wondering how @mrblaine does it when he's on the clock?
PXL_20210403_222051487.jpg
 
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B00mb00m said:
Just want to say changing tires on beadlocks is a shit ton of work. It got me wondering really how careful do I need to be on the beadlocks bolts? Like could I just use the impact driver and be good? That would save a Lot of time. Wondering how @mrblaine does it when he's on the clock?
View attachment 240469
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the cool factor starts to wear off about the 4th time around the 3rd rim. i go round my 36 bolts until they all click without moving. usually about 5x a rim.

most of the new cordless drills have a torque slip adjustment, and could be set short of the torque goal and used for a start.
 
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B00mb00m said:
Just want to say changing tires on beadlocks is a shit ton of work. It got me wondering really how careful do I need to be on the beadlocks bolts? Like could I just use the impact driver and be good? That would save a Lot of time. Wondering how @mrblaine does it when he's on the clock?
View attachment 240469
Click to expand...
I fuck around with a lot of fasteners. I do not even think of fucking around with bead lock bolts. I use an impact but I know very well what I am doing and I know that several things are true.
1- every time you tighten one bolt, it loosens the one on either side of it until it gets up to full torque.
2- none will come up to full torque until the lock ring makes contact with the rim's mating surface.
3- if the bolt ring cones too far, that will tilt the head of the bolt as it goes in and due to the hardened nature of grade 8 bolts, about 3/4's of a turn is all it takes like that to snap the head off.
4- bead locks are inherently dangerous. Each bolt has to perform at full function to prevent failure. Also why they are not recommended for high tire pressures.
5- never torque the bolts with pressure in the tire. If a failure starts, it will blow the bead lock ring off with enough force to ruin anything in the kill zone.
6- I only use the impact to move the bead lock ring down until it is just about to contact the rim or has just barely done so.
7- Did I mention that bead locks are dangerous as fuck yet?
 
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B00mb00m said:
Just want to say changing tires on beadlocks is a shit ton of work. It got me wondering really how careful do I need to be on the beadlocks bolts? Like could I just use the impact driver and be good? That would save a Lot of time. Wondering how @mrblaine does it when he's on the clock?
View attachment 240469
Click to expand...
When are you testing the tires?
 
mrblaine said:
I fuck around with a lot of fasteners. I do not even think of fucking around with bead lock bolts. I use an impact but I know very well what I am doing and I know that several things are true.
1- every time you tighten one bolt, it loosens the one on either side of it until it gets up to full torque.
2- none will come up to full torque until the lock ring makes contact with the rim's mating surface.
3- if the bolt ring cones too far, that will tilt the head of the bolt as it goes in and due to the hardened nature of grade 8 bolts, about 3/4's of a turn is all it takes like that to snap the head off.
4- bead locks are inherently dangerous. Each bolt has to perform at full function to prevent failure. Also why they are not recommended for high tire pressures.
5- never torque the bolts with pressure in the tire. If a failure starts, it will blow the bead lock ring off with enough force to ruin anything in the kill zone.
6- I only use the impact to move the bead lock ring down until it is just about to contact the rim or has just barely done so.
7- Did I mention that bead locks are dangerous as fuck yet?
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Thanks for that, @mrblaine . To your point #3, how much coning is too much? The Racelines I did back in the fall coned in just a little - maybe 3* - but didn‘t seem bad enough to worry about using spacers. And they torqued down just as you would expect, but in the back of my mind it still worries me just a bit.
 
NashvilleTJ said:
Thanks for that, @mrblaine . To your point #3, how much coning is too much? The Racelines I did back in the fall coned in just a little - maybe 3* - but didn‘t seem bad enough to worry about using spacers. And they torqued down just as you would expect, but in the back of my mind it still worries me just a bit.
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It all depends. Some rings are counterbored at an angle so the base of the hole gets very close to perpendicular to the bolt shank as the ring cones. The most basic test is whether or not the bolt heads snap off when you get them close to torque. Shitty test but that is how we learned of it. Buddy was putting Method wheels together with our help. Didn't even get close to the ring touching the rim and the heads started snapping off. First thing was to try different bolts which netted the same result.

That meant either the bead was too thick or the ring had a problem. Method's answer was for us to drill out the holes in the ring larger which I was fully not going to do. I took them the rings and had them do it. It worked but the better answer is to get spacers in there to slow down the coning and use something other than that bubble gum soft material that they use for their rings. We could actually see the ring dip down as we tightened a bolt creating a low spot in the ring between the bolts on either side. For that reason alone you couldn't give me a set of Methods.

We finally got the right spacers from OMF and fixed them but it was not worth it to me.
 
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mrblaine said:
I fuck around with a lot of fasteners. I do not even think of fucking around with bead lock bolts. I use an impact but I know very well what I am doing and I know that several things are true.
1- every time you tighten one bolt, it loosens the one on either side of it until it gets up to full torque.
2- none will come up to full torque until the lock ring makes contact with the rim's mating surface.
3- if the bolt ring cones too far, that will tilt the head of the bolt as it goes in and due to the hardened nature of grade 8 bolts, about 3/4's of a turn is all it takes like that to snap the head off.
4- bead locks are inherently dangerous. Each bolt has to perform at full function to prevent failure. Also why they are not recommended for high tire pressures.
5- never torque the bolts with pressure in the tire. If a failure starts, it will blow the bead lock ring off with enough force to ruin anything in the kill zone.
6- I only use the impact to move the bead lock ring down until it is just about to contact the rim or has just barely done so.
7- Did I mention that bead locks are dangerous as fuck yet?
Click to expand...
Point 2 is really key. Not worth wasting time with intermediate torque values. Snug the plate down till it hits the wheel In an even-ish pattern then start torquing and don't stop till they're even.
 
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