04 LJK Repair, Redo, Recycle - The 3 R's of a First Build

Since a jeep driver not to be named bailed at 6AM I did not get to try out my new tires. So I did the next best thing, bought a new angle grinder and started on my cutting brake setup.

Honestly, this turned out like a hack job. I'll be able to clean it up the frame assembly when I do final welding and paint but I am glad this will be buried in the console!

Step 1 was figure out how to change the lever mechanism to have the cylinder in back and push the levers forward. My mockup was like this:
PXL_20210419_195640289.jpg

PXL_20210419_195658727.jpg


This was one of those project though where I was making it up as I go along. Trying to figure out how to set up the frame and angle of handles and such. I took out the console and did a bunch of testing and I decided to use the offset handles and set then at about an 80deg forward slope. This will set the knobs pretty much in line with the top of the console and I can still easily reach over the levers to shift transmission and the atlas. It will still get raised about an inch when I figure out how to mount it to the tub.
PXL_20210420_021905191.jpg

PXL_20210420_020926322.jpg
PXL_20210420_021028252.jpg
 
I got at least another day on the cutting brake mount and modifying the console then I'll be onto the plumbing. Perhaps @toximus or @mrblaine know what is the fitting that I need to buy to make a new hardline connection to the mixer block for the rear brake line connection. All my notes indicate i have yet to find out what that fitting is.

Updated Cutting Brake Plumbing Diagram for future references:
1621349833616.png
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Vasq
trying to follow this.
the mixing block is not the proportioning valve?
and this will feather control at the wheel?
primarily used to obstruct function or lock it up?
 
I got at least another day on the cutting brake mount and modifying the console then I'll be onto the plumbing. Perhaps @toximus or @mrblaine know what is the fitting that I need to buy to make a new hardline connection to the mixer block for the rear brake line connection. All my notes indicate i have yet to find out what that fitting is.

Heres's what i have:
View attachment 245907

3/8-16 flared ORB off the top of my head. I'm likely wrong. I know it's listed in my build thread.
 
I'm waiting until you're done with this and I wheel with you before I EVEN think about installing one on mine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vasq
trying to follow this.
the mixing block is not the proportioning valve?
and this will feather control at the wheel?
primarily used to obstruct function or lock it up?
I might be using the wrong name. Its this fitting:

PXL_20210423_014521837.jpg
 
@Chris is there a way to search just inside a single thread? This took me way too long to find:
Screenshot_20210422-194856.png

As always, @toximus your detailed posts are a pleasure to sift through and I learn new stuff everytime I re-read. My gawd you did a lot of work!

Actually it doesn't look like you listed the fitting at the distribution block...?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
Oh snap, the wizard comes through for the win on the other wrangler forum!
Screenshot_20210422-200607.png

Per Blaine's thorough description port 5 is what I'm after and it's 1/2-20 not sure if it is like inverted double bubble flat topped or whatever other variants there are for hydraulic fittings!
 
@Chris is there a way to search just inside a single thread? This took me way too long to find:
View attachment 245977
As always, @toximus your detailed posts are a pleasure to sift through and I learn new stuff everytime I re-read. My gawd you did a lot of work!

Actually it doesn't look like you listed the fitting at the distribution block...?
You can use this:

https://wranglertjforum.com/search/?type=post
Use the “search thread” function and then search by username.
 
  • Love
Reactions: B00mb00m
I'm guessing it's inverted flare since that's all that summit sells in this size
 
Made a bit more progress today. figured out how to mount the assembly to the floor and cut the slot in my console. Took measurements for my soft lines. Hopefully the stroke is such that the slot works. That's a bit of a wildcard until it's bled. Which brings up bleeding the brakes... This could prove challenging. Should be able to try to do brake lines next weekend.
PXL_20210425_000750948.jpg



PXL_20210425_000803474.jpg
PXL_20210425_000420652.jpg
 
Made a bit more progress today. figured out how to mount the assembly to the floor and cut the slot in my console. Took measurements for my soft lines. Hopefully the stroke is such that the slot works. That's a bit of a wildcard until it's bled. Which brings up bleeding the brakes... This could prove challenging. Should be able to try to do brake lines next weekend.View attachment 246532


View attachment 246533View attachment 246534
Don't you own anything you can deburr the sharp edges with? Want me to send you one of my wife's nail files?
 
Don't you own anything you can deburr the sharp edges with? Want me to send you one of my wife's nail files?
Do you mean on the plastic? I specifically used a whirli-gig all the way around!
 
No, the piece of aluminum bar stock under the tub.
Hahaha! I did debur that with the angle grinder but my flap wheel is so coarse on aluminum it leaves it super rough.
 
Baby steps for me lately. I got the input line routed and soft lines punched through the floor. Doing the master cylinder flip really helped with integration and line routing.

Will run dual soft lines down the UCA Then just have to deal with new hardline mounts on the axle converting from a single T to two Ls.

PXL_20210506_024851500.jpg


PXL_20210506_024653582.jpg


PXL_20210506_024712379.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vasq and Wildman
Damn now you got me thinking about doing this.
I would 100% be on board but I don't want anything to slow you down, you need to get on dirt soon!! I actually have an whole extra setup. I bought one with straight handles also because I didnt know which would be better to start from.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman