04 LJK Repair, Redo, Recycle - The 3 R's of a First Build

B00mb00m said:
Its pretty much done, copy away you need a parts list? :) Just need to figure out how to store baby wipes and a face mask in the console. This project will eventually lead into an aluminum console project.
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I’ll come back for a parts list later. I’m too far out for it now but I like what you’ve done.
 
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I should note, how things ended up with regards to the hose routing, i didn't actually need to replace the OEM rear brake line (but obviously stainless lines hidden under the body are all about bling points). If anyone else runs a similar setup and has a midarm already just relocate the coiled rear hard line to front of the UCA mount and run the cutter MC input line off that. That simplifies the install a bit.
 
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Ohhh ya no more freezing cold legs. Scored some besttop soft half doors, soft uppers, and homemade arm rests for $200. He threw in some random Rubicon parts I'll be giving away also.
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Vasq said:
Front drive shaft?
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theres a front and rear, he said they need rebuilt but its always good to have a spare. I may have the rear lengthened for the LJ. You want the front?
 

This is in RWD like Blaine said to do. A little wheel speed helps a lot to do some legit donuts. That was super fun. I was able to turn donuts safely and in control whilst my first born filmed in the center of the donut! Don't show my wife.
 
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little hard to see, but you can see the wheel lock and looks like you get some spin around it.

that's cool, i may be askin for instruction someday, my new wheelbase and wide axles have taken away my turn on a dime tj.
 
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someguysjeep said:
little hard to see, but you can see the wheel lock and looks like you get some spin around it.

that's cool, i may be askin for instruction someday, my new wheelbase and wide axles have taken away my turn on a dime tj.
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It's a little hard to get the wheel to fully lock but with a bit more wheel speed than 1-low it pivots much better. I can't find anyone to wheel with right now so this is how I stay sane.
 
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This is not a beautiful Instagram level modification but I think it will work.

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Also got he SKIM module installed. Now this is a nice level of modification, I didn't even have to screw anything in it just slides on and clips on! Will call for dealer appt on Monday. Hopefully they can program while I wait since it's currently my only vehicle.
 
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B00mb00m said:
This is not a beautiful Instagram level modification but I think it will work.

View attachment 252868

Also got he SKIM module installed. Now this is a nice level of modification, I didn't even have to screw anything in it just slides on and clips on! Will call for dealer appt on Monday. Hopefully they can program while I wait since it's currently my only vehicle.
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That's absolutely cavernous, Boom.
 
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NashvilleTJ said:
That's absolutely cavernous, Boom.
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Just to be clear the plywood isn't about creating new console storage it's about separating the storage area from the cutting brake hoses and levers. I had to chop 4" off bottom and a couple inches off the front of the plastic console liner.
 
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I got 3 jeep projects going right now.
1. @mrblaine has done what the jeep dealer could not and paired the SKIM with my PCM. First, it looks like they never plugged in the SKIM second the MOPAR keys ending in AC apparently do not work. Somehow only the aftermarket ones work. So even if the dealers weren't incompetent they wouldn't have been able to do it without new keys.
2. I've been dealing with an odd and slight vibration in steering wheel so I jacked up the wheels and it felt likes a bearing was getting a little play. I think the movement was occurring between the rotor and pads and not at the balljoints so I got some Mopar wheel bearings and replaced the pass side and retorqued the drivers side. The idiot who installed them put antisieze on the nut and shaft. The Jk spec is only 100 ft-lbs for these and there is no cotter pin. Hopefully this takes care of the vib and hoping it's not early balljoint failure.
3. I received the GR8TOP storage box. Next week I'll get some J hooks or ubolts and figure out how to bolt it down using the 4 OEM tie downs in the back.
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If all goes well I'll be able to test some stuff out at Reiter next weekend.
 
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Got home early enough to mount the box tonight. I used some 1/4-20 u bolts and some 3/8x2 aluminum bar that I was saving to use as a backer bar for my rocker protection. Note to self, buy more 3/8x2 and install before I bend the tub!

I used a rubber floor mat under the box to provide some damping I don't need another source of clanks and creaks. I'd like to solid rivet some aluminum angle in the corners as this is a pretty light duty box.
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SKIM is back in and working. Tested it with a non SKIM key and it died about 3 seconds after starting. Pretty rad. Drove it to mexi food and actually didn't sit in a seat that let me watch over the jeep while eating. Now that is confidence! Thanks @mrblaine. Be sure to call the wizard if you need protection for your jeep. Don't waste your time with incompetent dealers.

Put a new wheel bearing in and that definitely helps the ride. Then I found out the f250 has a frozen caliper slider so now I got that all torn down. Need to find parts tomorrow so I can have it back together to tow the jeep to Reiter.
 
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I was planning to get a drill press for my birthday but saw these on FB market for $1000 with tj brackets and decided they would make a nice addition. I like how they have a low side bolster for getting In and out. Going to combine these with the seat risers I have waiting to be installed.

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B00mb00m said:
I was planning to get a drill press for my birthday but saw these on FB market for $1000 with tj brackets and decided they would make a nice addition. I like how they have a low side bolster for getting In and out. Going to combine these with the seat risers I have waiting to be installed.

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Those look like they have about 1 butt hour on them. Sweet score! The PRP lead times right now are crazy so that makes it even better
 
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