04 LJK Repair, Redo, Recycle - The 3 R's of a First Build

I did that so I don't have to worry about leaking. I have a standpipe installed inside to pull from bottom.

I also bought one of these jugs. It fits perfectly, has an angled spout for filling easier in-situ but installing a standpipe will be difficult to access the nut on backside and it's opaque so not easy to see fuel level.
You need a marine portable fuel tank. They already have a stand pipe since they all pull from the top. This one has a level gauge. There are many others.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BNBCRRS/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Jug link doesn't work for some reason.
 
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1. Like 1". Just enough that savvy front midarm lengths would be slightly too short.

2. No I didn't but assume you will have to if you go for your max uptravel. My frame side trackbar mount is a bit lower than others I think this helped out with the not notching but I did leave 3/8" of uptravel on the table. I ended up exactly 6" uptravel front and rear. And I was matching the rear lift height of currie LJ springs.

What's your frame height @ ride height? I'm building at 21" on 37's. 4.5" uptravel at full bump and it gets real tight, 1.5" forward stretch.
 
What's your frame height @ ride height? I'm building at 21" on 37's. 4.5" uptravel at full bump and it gets real tight, 1.5" forward stretch.
22" frame height, 6 1/2" of up, 14" C/O, 37" tires, some forward axle push, 64" WMS to WMS, Currie F-450 inner C, almost full articulation except the rotor is holding the axle up an inch, and I'll have to notch the frame.

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22" frame height, 6 1/2" of up, 14" C/O, 37" tires, some forward axle push, 64" WMS to WMS, Currie F-450 inner C, almost full articulation except the rotor is holding the axle up an inch, and I'll have to notch the frame.

View attachment 304485
I'm sitting at 21-3/8" frame height on 37" MT Baja Pros.

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What's your frame height @ ride height? I'm building at 21" on 37's. 4.5" uptravel at full bump and it gets real tight, 1.5" forward stretch.
What's limiting you? 4.5" is not enough IMO. If you run 2" bump stops you only have 2.5" of travel before bumps.
 
Listening to too many tech talks.
Do you mean to go ahead and add a little lift because I would agree. Sierra if you're truly stuck at 4.5, it's worth dialing in some lift to get more uptravels.
 
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Yes, but you don't have a front Dana 60 shoving the upper mount into the bottom of the AC compressor.
No, but if you find another good deal on one I'd be willing to try!
 
Yes, but you don't have a front Dana 60 shoving the upper mount into the bottom of the AC compressor.
thought this was a JK front Dana 44.

i tend to oversimplify things, but the stock suspension vs the Dana 30 size configuration provided a solid 3.5" of up travel, correct?
so any added lift should be able to be incorporated to this travel zone, correct?

so if i use a 4" lift, the math says i can cram a Dana 30 to 7.5" up travel (theoretically, but not practical, due to restraints beyond the pumpkin), then the larger Dana 44 would fall in at about 6.5" (which it does/can) and the Dana 60 then gets limited to probably 5.5" ish.

the JK Dana 44 and a 4" lift should be able to net you a solid 6" up travel, 6.5" if you push it tight. you get into this range then you might need a chunk of frame moved for the drag link.

the jeep doen't hand over the extra room, you gotta take it. you gotta take it from your driver side oil pan skid hanger, and your driver side MM and your passenger side frame rail to find every last bit if that's what your lookin for.
 
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thought this was a JK front Dana 44.

i tend to oversimplify things, but the stock suspension vs the Dana 30 size configuration provided a solid 3.5" of up travel, correct?
so any added lift should be able to be incorporated to this travel zone, correct?

so if i use a 4" lift, the math says i can cram a Dana 30 to 7.5" up travel (theoretically, but not practical, due to restraints beyond the pumpkin), then the larger Dana 44 would fall in at about 6.5" (which it does/can) and the Dana 60 then gets limited to probably 5.5" ish.

the JK Dana 44 and a 4" lift should be able to net you a solid 6" up travel, 6.5" if you push it tight. you get into this range then you might need a chunk of frame moved for the drag link.

the jeep doen't hand over the extra room, you gotta take it. you gotta take it from your driver side oil pan skid hanger, and your driver side MM and your passenger side frame rail to find every last bit if that's what your lookin for.
Mine is a Jk44 front, Blaine's picture is rockjock 60. I agree with most your points.
 
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Mine is a Jk44 front, Blaine's picture is rockjock 60. I agree with most your points.
Gotcha, wasn't sure what the reference was to. That RJ pumpkin is special I don't see something like a Ford 60 diff getting that high .
 
What's limiting you? 4.5" is not enough IMO. If you run 2" bump stops you only have 2.5" of travel before bumps.
I haven't cycled (articulated) axle yet. I'm waiting on a custom flat pitman and some 10 degree LCA mounts I made on CAD and are cutting this week. I raised the whole axle "full bump" for initial mock-up. 21" frame height, 18.25" axle centerline and the UCA mount/truss has about 3/8" clearance to the A/C compressor/oil pan, respectively. With high steer knuckles, a "chopped up" & flattened TJ pitman cut to 5-3/4", the TRE on the drag link "grazes" the tie rod @ 1.5" front stretch. I hope this won't be the case when front left tire is at full bump and right is at full droop.
 
thought this was a JK front Dana 44.

i tend to oversimplify things, but the stock suspension vs the Dana 30 size configuration provided a solid 3.5" of up travel, correct?
so any added lift should be able to be incorporated to this travel zone, correct?

so if i use a 4" lift, the math says i can cram a Dana 30 to 7.5" up travel (theoretically, but not practical, due to restraints beyond the pumpkin), then the larger Dana 44 would fall in at about 6.5" (which it does/can) and the Dana 60 then gets limited to probably 5.5" ish.

the JK Dana 44 and a 4" lift should be able to net you a solid 6" up travel, 6.5" if you push it tight. you get into this range then you might need a chunk of frame moved for the drag link.

the jeep doen't hand over the extra room, you gotta take it. you gotta take it from your driver side oil pan skid hanger, and your driver side MM and your passenger side frame rail to find every last bit if that's what your lookin for.
Yes.. I'm learning that the UCA mount on the frame needs to be "skinny". alot of the 3-link/4-link UCA kits don't cut it, especially with a HP axle. MM is good for me but some fabrication skills are needed to replace the engine skid.
 
I haven't cycled (articulated) axle yet. I'm waiting on a custom flat pitman and some 10 degree LCA mounts I made on CAD and are cutting this week. I raised the whole axle "full bump" for initial mock-up. 21" frame height, 18.25" axle centerline and the UCA mount/truss has about 3/8" clearance to the A/C compressor/oil pan, respectively. With high steer knuckles, a "chopped up" & flattened TJ pitman cut to 5-3/4", the TRE on the drag link "grazes" the tie rod @ 1.5" front stretch. I hope this won't be the case when front left tire is at full bump and right is at full droop.
Folks get caught up on needing to say they have X amount of stretch sometime. Not saying that's you. But don't be afraid to move it back a little if it gets you 1/2" more uptravel at 1" stretch then that's totally worth it.
 
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Folks get caught up on needing to say they have X amount of stretch sometime. Not saying that's you. But don't be afraid to move it back a little if it gets you 1/2" more uptravel at 1" stretch then that's totally worth it.
Million dollar rookie question.. Do I set bump stops with both tires stuffed or cycled each side at a time?
 
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Million dollar rookie question.. Do I set bump stops with both tires stuffed or cycled each side at a time?
It is usually best to set your bumps at full articulation. If you set at full stuff, you will likely be into your fenders at full articulation. But, you do need to check both ways.

And just to be clear - full articulation means full stuff on one side, full droop on the other.
 
Yes.. I'm learning that the UCA mount on the frame needs to be "skinny". alot of the 3-link/4-link UCA kits don't cut it, especially with a HP axle. MM is good for me but some fabrication skills are needed to replace the engine skid.
the hanger or you need to rework the main pieces?
quite a few of us have had to modify the driver side hanger, this is what mine turned into.

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