04 LJK Repair, Redo, Recycle - The 3 R's of a First Build

Million dollar rookie question.. Do I set bump stops with both tires stuffed or cycled each side at a time?
What i learned from Blaine was set your bumps for high speed full stuff (both shoved up). The rubber bumpers on the shocks can handle the low speed flexing "bump." I set it up so both bump cans and shocks bottom at same time. Due to my highlines with 37s i actually had a *little* bit extra room for articulation i could have moved my shocks up a bit more above my bump cans to take advantage of 100% of my fender wells during articulation. That being said, in practice (on the trails) I have a shit ton of articulation so I'm definitely not needing anything more.

Ideally you set bumps and shocks for full up then trim everything that needs to be trimmed to allow it to fully flex at articulation.
 
just hope it has enough spine to keep the skid off the oil pan, not being a direct line to it's anchor could be a weak spot, we'll see.
I went the opposite way and made the skid a flat plate so it could flex into the pan without bending the skid.
 
Started on spare tire holder project. First step fix the dumb metal cloak design of my tub armor where they have cutouts for the hinges.... Why!? This is first time I've had the armor off since installing like 4 years ago. The vinyl wrap under the armor did really good as a protective layer.

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@B00mb00m ,

It looks like you are using LCA mounts that place the joint at axle height? Whats your vertical separation at the axle? Any regrets not going lower?
 
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@B00mb00m ,

It looks like you are using LCA mounts that place the joint at axle height? Whats your vertical separation at the axle? Any regrets not going lower?
Theyre stock height mounts, might look axle height but I insure they do hang down :)

I did raise my upper attachment slightly because the jk44 is a bit taller.
 
Started on spare tire holder project. First step fix the dumb metal cloak design of my tub armor where they have cutouts for the hinges.... Why!? This is first time I've had the armor off since installing like 4 years ago. The vinyl wrap under the armor did really good as a protective layer.

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Don't most of the aftermarket companies make their corner armor with hinge cut-outs? I know my Poison Spyder corners had them also. If you don't have the tailgate armor then the hinges are level.
 
You'll have to make lift blocks under the motor mounts that extend past the frame side mount to make it work like that.
What height? Did you choose a standard bar height so you just had to cut to length?
 
Don't most of the aftermarket companies make their corner armor with hinge cut-outs? I know my Poison Spyder corners had them also. If you don't have the tailgate armor then the hinges are level.
I mean I understand why they did it but not why they didn't do it better. A piece of 3/16 under the hinges on the tailgate and all is well again and hinge cutouts are not needed.
 
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I've been himmin and hawing about what drill press or vertical mill to get for the past four years. I desperately need the function of a drill press though so I was pretty stoked when I saw this drill press pop up on Facebook market. It's a 2007 G9743, 3/4HP. Got it for $100 and ordered $150 in parts from grizzly. I lubed it up and fixed the tensioner, ordered some new belts, and ordered a cross-slide vise. I'll clean up the main shaft and should be good to go. It shocks me how people just don't take care of their stuff. Like why not replace handles when they go missing instead of using vise grips, it's a $7 part.

Still will be on the lookout for a mini milling machine.

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I've been himmin and hawing about what drill press or vertical mill to get for the past four years. I desperately need the function of a drill press though so I was pretty stoked when I saw this drill press pop up on Facebook market. It's a 2007 G9743, 3/4HP. Got it for $100 and ordered $150 in parts from grizzly. I lubed it up and fixed the tensioner, ordered some new belts, and ordered a cross-slide vise. I'll clean up the main shaft and should be good to go. It shocks me how people just don't take care of their stuff. Like why not replace handles when they go missing instead of using vise grips, it's a $7 part.

Still will be on the lookout for a mini milling machine.

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The second time you tighten the slide bolt to tension the belt and the knob breaks off, you'll figure out why the Vise Grips are there and why a few 7 dollar knobs wind up costing more than a small pair of pliers after a bit.
 
The second time you tighten the slide bolt to tension the belt and the knob breaks off, you'll figure out why the Vise Grips are there and why a few 7 dollar knobs wind up costing more than a small pair of pliers after a bit.
Ah the voice of experience. I can respect that.
 
Got the drill press all fixed up some new parts and made a table using HF table legs and HF mobile rolling base. It's 3/4HP and the only time it hasn't had enough power is countersinking for 3/8 bolts. But for the price it's AWESOME! Im still going to build some more on the table to get things organized.

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Well it was an incredible amount of work it felt like just to get to a point where it actually looks like I did something! Welded up the corners on the metalcloak armor, then repainted it all with primer, base and 2 part rattle can clear. Wetsanded and polished and got it looking okay (for armor). Shortened up brackets from Blaine so I didn't have to futher cut up my tub sliders then built reinforcement that tie in with the hinge boxes to both bolts on the cage. The exogate stiffener only used a single bolt but two is more better. Add to that when I unbolted the cage it moved and so had to use clamps and Dremel out holes a bit to get it back together. Still lots more to do but happy to finally make a little progress on the back end.

For crossbars I am making some wooden dummy bars out of laminated 1/2" plywood to simulate the 2x2 solid aluminum I will have machined. This is the second time I've used wood on the jeep!

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