05-06 NSG370 to 42RLE Non-How-To Brain Dump

[rasband]

Let's start this off by making it clear: this is not a real "How To" as I have now only been involved in this project once. There's a lot of "figure it out" in this. However I do want to document an NSG370 to 42RLE swap in case it will help someone else later (it also works in the reverse ). I had a lot of help, which is good because this is a lot of work and isn't for the faint of heart. I'm not kidding - you get fully committed to this pretty early on.

I have to thank the easter bunny for all his help not only introducing me to my donor but also helping source parts and more knowledge, along with the others that helped work on it. Anyone active around the forum can probably guess who they are.

We had an ideal scenario, two 2006 LJRs side by side. I don't really see another way beyond finding a very similarly equipped vehicle to have side by side unless you collect parts for a long time (and even then...)

Note: Headings that list a specific transmission mean the vehicle that will be LEAVING as that type. e.g. if you see "Automatic" that's the vehicle that will leave as an auto.

Prerequisites​

Be prepared! There's a lot of random things you might need. These are non-exhaustive lists for the end-result vehicle.

Automatic​

* New Crank Bushing
* New Flexplate Bolts
* Auto Radiator - do this ahead of time to limit active projects.

Manual​

* Pilot Bearing
* Pilot Bearing Bushing (you can likely reuse what you pull out)
* New Flywheel Bolts
* Optional: Clutch, Throwout Bearing
* Optional: New trans tunnel cover

Misc​

* A few rolls of electrical tape
* Wire Loom (various sizes)
* Wire labels (I used zip ties with label tabs on them, but you can do whatever you'd like here such as masking tape).
* Transmission mounts. If you are both on the same skid, perfect. Otherwise - you might need to buy/build parts for the new trans if they're not in your old parts bin.
Here's an example of the Savvy auto (right) vs manual (left).

* Christmas tree zip ties
* Zip Ties
* Butt Splices/Wire repair things
* Blind bearing puller
* Plan a system of how you're going to organize parts. We had a big sheet of cardboard divided in half, one side each. Every bolt that came off went on it and into a labeled area.

Let's talk SKIM​

All I can say here is one of us had SKIM enabled and one did not. I was able to have wranglerfix.com disable my SKIM. When I sent the PCM out to get that disabled I pulled the SKIM plug out, so I could drive around when it got back until the swap. It went into the other vehicle with no issue. Similarly since he didn't ever have SKIM his went into mine fine. I believe it is more complicated if both parties already have SKIM, but am not familiar enough to speak intelligently to that.

What wiring should I check for beforehand?​

05/06 Jeeps are fairly annoying here and two rigs of the same year may not have everything the same due to available options. It doesn't make sense why, but it's what those with more experience have told me. So here's some things to check for.

Note that since you will have to swap all wiring in the engine bay and underneath - including the PDC, there's nothing special to look for here - unless one rig is a Rubicon and the other isn't, in which case - just stop now or accept the donor will lose their lockers + sensors unless they want to run the pump power directly (they'll lose the sensor lights in the cluster either way). We found that the rig without the fancy mirror also missed a temp sensor on the left side of the grille, but it did have the harness.

Automatic​

* Shifter bezel light socket (not really important)
* Overdrive Switch Plug - this is a small white plug behind your toggle switches in the center bezel. I believe it's usually parked in the back of a blank.

Manual​

* Clutch Interlock (small black plug with a maroon wire housing above the ODBII)

Still have the stomach for it?​

You get into the thick of it rather quickly. Just check yourself one more time that both parties are ready to commit and go. It's incredibly involved as you will remove every external connector on each rig.

Drop Gas Tanks​

A very unfortunate thing of the late models is that they do not have accessible wiring disconnects. As such, you can either choose to add a pigtail now or drop your tank to access the top of the fuel pump to remove this connector.

Disconnect Batteries​

Disconnect the batteries and pull the PCMs.

Remove Transmissions​

If you can't pull your transmission, turn back. Label anything you disconnect as you go. Seriously, it's easy to remember a couple connections, but soon enough you will be deep into connectors you aren't going to want to have to reason about.

Pull and label the engine bay wiring harness​

Take a bunch of pictures of how things sit now, even if you're not sure what you need. Just get a bunch of overviews from different angles and closer shots on busier areas.

Start at the PDC and remove/label all things it touches. It doesn't really matter if you know what a sensor is or does (though it helps if you have to reason about what's what later). You just need to be consistent in your labeling across each rig being sure to label both the male and female end of the connectors. Same as below: this is a good time to walk the harness and check for any excessive chaffing, wear, etc. Fix it now because you won't have as easy access again.

Note the two connectors with a grommet just left of them about 1/3 the way down on each harness (between the feet). Those two big connectors feed through the firewall by the brake pedal and connect to the in-cab wiring you won't really need to touch.

Pull and label the rest of the wiring​

I started at the gas tank and worked forward connector by connector. Again, label both sides and be consistent (where you can) between the auto and the manual. Obviously the auto will have a bunch of extra sensors in the middle.

Once it's pulled would be a good time to trace the harness and make sure it's still healthy. We found multiple spots in both harnesses that could use some love with repair/patching/reinforcing/looming.

Your engine bay will never look so clean again.

​

Remove things from the was-a-manual​

* Pilot Bearing
* Pilot Bearing Bushing
* Clutch Master/Slave
* Firewall plug (on the firewall above the trans tunnel on the driver side)
* Pedals (brake + clutch) - be sure to watch out for the brake light sensor and clutch interlock connector
* Steering Column Housing
* Ignition Cylinder (KEEP THIS WITH YOUR RIG)
* Ignition Cylinder interlock (the little switch behind the key that lets it turn to off)
* Transmission tunnel cover
* Shifter + boot (use a T45 to remove the shifter from the transmission, don't ever lose or throw away the ring around the boot)
* Starter

Remove things from the was-an-auto​

* Crank Bushing - this is known to be very tough so you will likely need to get creative. Do not damage the crank.
* Overdrive switch
* Transmission Cooler Lines
* Pedals
* Steering Column Housing
* Ignition Cylinder (KEEP THIS WITH YOUR RIG)
* Ignition Cylinder Interlock (this is a cable that goes to the automatic shifter). BE CAREFUL: There is a small sliver in this that would be easy to lose. It won't jump out, but it could fall out - so just watch for it and be careful.
* Transmission Shifter (this routes through the firewall at the top of the transmission tunnel)
* Clutch Master Firewall Cover
* Transmission tunnel cover/Auto Shifter Bracket
* Starter
* Dipstick

Put it all back together on the other rig.​

That title is a bit short, but this is pretty much what you do. I started at the manifold connectors and worked back slowly, trying to not twist the harness as I went.

For the internal pieces we swapped we just did those one at a time, but find whatever way works for you.

Notes:​

* Some bolts move over with the transmission. Pretty much any bolts that touch the transmission will move, aside from your transfer case nuts. That includes bell housing bolts and starter bolts.
* The starters swap.
* You will need to adjust your brake light sensor after the pedals swap. To do this, simply depress your brake pedal and use some pliers to move the sensor shaft out, letting the brake pedal self adjust. The sensor is facing the top of the brake pedal's arm on the bracket. See here if you want a video.
* Rubicons disable the clutch interlock (inability to start the rig without the clutch being depressed) in 4low. Don't test that functionality (if you care about it) in 4low.
* This took us about 2.5 days of work.

Follow Ups​

Once you're done, you're not really done. Afterward you'll want to get your PCM programmed to your body's VIN. WranglerFix can help you here. If you want to maintain SKIM you may also need to talk to Mark

* PCM: Get your PCM reprogrammed for your VIN, you can do this at WranglerFix. This is important for emissions things (if applicable), and probably others.
* SKIM: Address SKIM things, maybe WranglerFix can help?
* If you now have an auto: get a trans cooler and a temperature sensor installed.
* There may be surprises in store, just be ready to address them.

Again: we had a pretty lucky and ideal scenario. Both rigs had the wiring they needed inside, they also had most the same features. Do not underestimate the differences you could see that I didn't. Do your homework.

 

[psrivats]

Great write up.. thanks for sharing @rasband.

I remember reading @Jamison C's thread a while ago when I was trying to understand this stuff for the first time and I was absolutely blown away at both the level of knowledge/skill required and the level of patience and attention that's absolutely necessary for success. Your write up here strongly reinforces that feeling once again. Congrats on finishing your swap without complications - it must be a tremendous feeling for everyone involved to fire the Jeeps up and everything run smoothly.

For things like these .. the devil is really in the details and we are lucky to have a resident wizard who has done this multiple times in multiple combinations across multiple years to guide folks that seek help.

 

[Mike_H]

Thanks for this post. As I get closer to doing this myself (I don’t have a donor rig), I’ve made a list and gone through it a couple of times. Every time I read about a swap, it triggers another thought for me and I go through my giant box of parts, again, to verify I have it or start sourcing the part.

The starter is something I know I didn’t think of. In what ways are they different?

 

[jjvw]

...

The starter is something I know I didn’t think of. In what ways are they different?

The sizes and bolt patterns are different. The starter is specific to the transmission bell housing that it attaches to.

 

[hosejockey61]

Other things that come to mind from my perspective:

Before starting, make sure to wash your vehicle thoroughly, really taking time on the undercarriage(s). Having dirt and junk fall on your face/eyes sucks.

BEFORE DISCONNECTING ANYTHING- Pull your fuel pump relay and turn the vehicle over for several seconds to relieve the fuel pressure. This will prevent a mess at the fuel line connectors at the gas tank.

 

[mrblaine]

Let's start this off by making it clear: this is not a real "How To" as I have now only been involved in this project once. There's a lot of "figure it out" in this. However I do want to document an NSG370 to 42RLE swap in case it will help someone else later (it also works in the reverse ). I had a lot of help, which is good because this is a lot of work and isn't for the faint of heart. I'm not kidding - you get fully committed to this pretty early on.

I have to thank the easter bunny for all his help not only introducing me to my donor but also helping source parts and more knowledge, along with the others that helped work on it. Anyone active around the forum can probably guess who they are.

We had an ideal scenario, two 2006 LJRs side by side. I don't really see another way beyond finding a very similarly equipped vehicle to have side by side unless you collect parts for a long time (and even then...)

Note: Headings that list a specific transmission mean the vehicle that will be LEAVING as that type. e.g. if you see "Automatic" that's the vehicle that will leave as an auto.

Prerequisites​

Be prepared! There's a lot of random things you might need. These are non-exhaustive lists for the end-result vehicle.

Automatic​

* New Crank Bushing
* New Flexplate Bolts
* Auto Radiator - do this ahead of time to limit active projects.

Manual​

* Pilot Bearing
* Pilot Bearing Bushing (you can likely reuse what you pull out)
* New Flywheel Bolts
* Optional: Clutch, Throwout Bearing
* Optional: New trans tunnel cover

Misc​

* A few rolls of electrical tape
* Wire Loom (various sizes)
* Wire labels (I used zip ties with label tabs on them, but you can do whatever you'd like here such as masking tape).
* Transmission mounts. If you are both on the same skid, perfect. Otherwise - you might need to buy/build parts for the new trans if they're not in your old parts bin.
Here's an example of the Savvy auto (right) vs manual (left).
View attachment 345632

View attachment 345633
* Christmas tree zip ties
* Zip Ties
* Butt Splices/Wire repair things
* Blind bearing puller
* Plan a system of how you're going to organize parts. We had a big sheet of cardboard divided in half, one side each. Every bolt that came off went on it and into a labeled area.


View attachment 345634

Let's talk SKIM​

All I can say here is one of us had SKIM enabled and one did not. I was able to have wranglerfix.com disable my SKIM. When I sent the PCM out to get that disabled I pulled the SKIM plug out, so I could drive around when it got back until the swap. It went into the other vehicle with no issue. Similarly since he didn't ever have SKIM his went into mine fine. I believe it is more complicated if both parties already have SKIM, but am not familiar enough to speak intelligently to that.

What wiring should I check for beforehand?​

Jeeps are fairly annoying here and two rigs of the same year may not have everything the same. It doesn't make sense why, but it's what those with more experience have told me. So here's some things to check for.

Note that since you will have to swap all wiring in the engine bay and underneath - including the PDC, there's nothing special to look for here - unless one rig is a Rubicon and the other isn't, in which case - just stop now or accept the donor will lose their lockers + sensors unless they want to run the pump power directly (they'll lose the sensor lights in the cluster either way). We found that the rig without the fancy mirror also missed a temp sensor on the left side of the grille, but it did have the harness.

Automatic​

* Shifter bezel light socket (not really important)
* Overdrive Switch Plug - this is a small white plug behind your toggle switches in the center bezel. I believe it's usually parked in the back of a blank.

View attachment 345635

Manual​

* Clutch Interlock (small black plug with a maroon wire housing above the ODBII)

Still have the stomach for it?​

You get into the thick of it rather quickly. Just check yourself one more time that both parties are ready to commit and go. It's incredibly involved as you will remove every external connector on each rig.

Drop Gas Tanks​

A very unfortunate thing of the late models is that they do not have accessible wiring disconnects. As such, you can either choose to add a pigtail now or drop your tank to access the top of the fuel pump to remove this connector.

Disconnect Batteries​

Disconnect the batteries and pull the PCMs.

Remove Transmissions​

If you can't pull your transmission, turn back. Label anything you disconnect as you go. Seriously, it's easy to remember a couple connections, but soon enough you will be deep into connectors you aren't going to want to have to reason about.

Pull and label the engine bay wiring harness​

Take a bunch of pictures of how things sit now, even if you're not sure what you need. Just get a bunch of overviews from different angles and closer shots on busier areas.

Start at the PDC and remove/label all things it touches. It doesn't really matter if you know what a sensor is or does (though it helps if you have to reason about what's what later). You just need to be consistent in your labeling across each rig being sure to label both the male and female end of the connectors. Same as below: this is a good time to walk the harness and check for any excessive chaffing, wear, etc. Fix it now because you won't have as easy access again.

Note the two connectors with a grommet just left of them about 1/3 the way down on each harness (between the feet). Those two big connectors feed through the firewall by the brake pedal and connect to the in-cab wiring you won't really need to touch.

View attachment 345630

Pull and label the rest of the wiring​

I started at the gas tank and worked forward connector by connector. Again, label both sides and be consistent (where you can) between the auto and the manual. Obviously the auto will have a bunch of extra sensors in the middle.

Once it's pulled would be a good time to trace the harness and make sure it's still healthy. We found multiple spots in both harnesses that could use some love with repair/patching/reinforcing/looming.

View attachment 345631

Your engine bay will never look so clean again.
View attachment 345640

​

Remove things from the was-a-manual​

* Pilot Bearing
* Pilot Bearing Bushing
* Clutch Master/Slave
* Firewall plug (on the firewall above the trans tunnel on the driver side)
* Pedals (brake + clutch) - be sure to watch out for the brake light sensor and clutch interlock connector
* Steering Column Housing
* Ignition Cylinder (KEEP THIS WITH YOUR RIG)
* Ignition Cylinder interlock (the little switch behind the key that lets it turn to off)
* Transmission tunnel cover
* Shifter + boot (use a T45 to remove the shifter from the transmission, don't ever lose or throw away the ring around the boot)
* Starter

Remove things from the was-an-auto​

* Crank Bushing - this is known to be very tough so you will likely need to get creative. Do not damage the crank.
* Overdrive switch
* Transmission Cooler Lines
* Pedals
* Steering Column Housing
* Ignition Cylinder (KEEP THIS WITH YOUR RIG)
* Ignition Cylinder Interlock (this is a cable that goes to the automatic shifter). BE CAREFUL: There is a small sliver in this that would be easy to lose. It won't jump out, but it could fall out - so just watch for it and be careful.
* Transmission Shifter (this routes through the firewall at the top of the transmission tunnel)
* Clutch Master Firewall Cover
* Transmission tunnel cover/Auto Shifter Bracket
* Starter
* Dipstick

Put it all back together on the other rig.​

That title is a bit short, but this is pretty much what you do. I started at the manifold connectors and worked back slowly, trying to not twist the harness as I went.

For the internal pieces we swapped we just did those one at a time, but find whatever way works for you.

Notes:​

* Some bolts move over with the transmission. Pretty much any bolts that touch the transmission will move, aside from your transfer case nuts. That includes bell housing bolts and starter bolts.
* The starters swap.
* You will need to adjust your brake light sensor after the pedals swap. To do this, simply depress your brake pedal and use some pliers to move the sensor shaft out, letting the brake pedal self adjust. The sensor is facing the top of the brake pedal's arm on the bracket. See here if you want a video.
* Rubicons disable the clutch interlock (inability to start the rig without the clutch being depressed) in 4low. Don't test that functionality (if you care about it) in 4low.
* This took us about 2.5 days of work.

Follow Ups​

Once you're done, you're not really done. Afterward you'll want to get your PCM programmed to your body's VIN. WranglerFix can help you here. If you want to maintain SKIM you may also need to talk to Mark

* PCM: Get your PCM reprogrammed for your VIN, you can do this at WranglerFix. This is important for emissions things (if applicable), and probably others.
* SKIM: Address SKIM things, maybe WranglerFix can help?
* If you now have an auto: get a trans cooler and a temperature sensor installed.
* There may be surprises in store, just be ready to address them.

Again: we had a pretty lucky and ideal scenario. Both rigs had the wiring they needed inside, they also had most the same features. Do not underestimate the differences you could see that I didn't. Do your homework.

I see a few errors I made. Not sure why I missed it other than it is so common and easy for us it just never dawned on me that others wouldn't arrive at the same answer. We don't drop the gas tank to undo that stupid connector. It takes way too much time. We pop the harness loom open at an easy to get to spot between the side of the t-case and the frame and do a staggered cut on the 4 wires so they can be put back together without adding bulk that won't fit in the loom using heat shrink butt connectors.

The other thing of note about the various harness issues is this only applies to the 05-06 since for unknown reasons Jeep decided to up the number of options to a ridiculous number after 04. Previous to 03, they only had 2 harnesses for the entire 4.0 line-up in each year for domestic TJs. Both harnesses had optioned connectors that you just either used or unplugged and plugged into the bypass part like the one for the NSS circuit and clutch safety switch. If you have an auto, it is just plugged into the NSS circuit to complete it. If you have a manual, it unplugs from there and then connects to the clutch safety switch.

It should be noted that the ignition interlock stops the shifter from depressing the detent to shift out of park with the key in the off position.

In all of the ones we've done, we've never had to move the PDC harness over. That is an 05-06 thing only.

Nice work, takes a ton of time to keep track of all that info and get it down in some useable format.

 

[rasband]

Before starting, make sure to wash your vehicle thoroughly, really taking time on the undercarriage(s). Having dirt and junk fall on your face/eyes sucks.

Another one is to clean the engine/trans as best you can. Our donor was a greasy mess coming out.

 

[rasband]

We don't drop the gas tank to undo that stupid connector. It takes way too much time. We pop the harness loom open at an easy to get to spot between the side of the t-case and the frame and do a staggered cut on the 4 wires so they can be put back together without adding bulk that won't fit in the loom using heat shrink butt connectors.

I definitely spotted that there had to be a better way, but my thought of adding a quick disconnect came too late. Your approach is pretty clean!

The other thing of note about the various harness issues is this only applies to the 05-06 since for unknown reasons Jeep decided to up the number of options to a ridiculous number after 04.

That's definitely interesting. The only two features I could find different between these two rigs was the compass mirror and skim. I didn't check for whether or not the donor had the wiring for SKIM inside but it did have the extra thermometer connector in the grille. Next time I see an 05/06 I'll probably peek around those spots to see when those are missing.

 

[rasband]

Here's a few first day follow ups:

1. Got some NVH, which should be expected. Things changed and I didn't yet adjust anything. My guess is my rear pinion is now incorrect.
2. There are more vibes, especially at idle, in drive. Again, this is expected just by nature of how an auto works. Off to find some MOPAR engine mounts since my originals were trashed. If anyone wants to swap their OEM mounts in good shape for the MORE Bomb Proof's - let me know

 

[hosejockey61]

Here's a few first day follow ups:

1. Got some NVH, which should be expected. Things changed and I didn't yet adjust anything. My guess is my rear pinion is now incorrect.
2. There are more vibes, especially at idle, in drive. Again, this is expected just by nature of how an auto works. Off to find some MOPAR engine mounts since my originals were trashed. If anyone wants to swap their OEM mounts in good shape for the MORE Bomb Proof's - let me know

I wouldn't expect your pinion angle to change. Both tranny's are right at 24" in length. I wouldn't suspect the driveshaft angle changed at all. Did the raised Savvy mount place it back in three same position or move it? That could potentially change angle I suppose.

 

[rasband]

I wouldn't expect your pinion angle to change. Both tranny's are right at 24" in length. I wouldn't suspect the driveshaft angle changed at all. Did the raised Savvy mount place it back in three same position or move it? That could potentially change angle I suppose.

My guess is it's close to where it was but maybe just different enough due to the weight difference (~50lb), so I will flip drive shafts to see if there's any change. It's just a slight vibe under moderate acceleration, so it seems most likely to be pinion adjustments. I figure I will rule out the easy things first.

 

[hosejockey61]

If anyone needs an OEM 42RLE insulator/mount or mounting bracket, I put the assembly up for sale.

Mentioning this in case anyone is interested before I put it in storage.

I’ll be happy to delete this asap (my apologies for grandstanding).

We needed the manual mount

 

[hosejockey61]

The other thing that needs to be mentioned is the auto crank bushing. That thing was stuck in there good and couldn't be removed with a traditional blind bearing puller. There were a couple of different options to get it out of there. We eventually just broke out the welder and made a makeshift slide hammer. Welded it to the bushing and got it out that way. It was stuck pretty good.

 

[Longwhitejeep]

Thanks for documenting this along they way.

 

[Jamison C]

Very good notes. It’s funny seeing similar problems and troubles come to light. One issue I ran into during my swap which still remains a mystery;

When I was finally ready to start the Jeep for the first time it didn’t even crank. After some troubleshooting and panic regarding the wiring mess I had endured I decided to jumper the clutch safety switch and it fired right up. It shifted and ran great, but it threw a park/neutral switch code, resulting in cruise and low gears not working since the PCM couldn’t tell if it was in park or drive, and mind you this was with the automatic PCM installed. A few days later I decided to pull the jumper out of the clutch safety switch and everything has worked flawlessly since.

I have over 1000 miles on my swap now and everything works like factory. I still don’t understand how jumping the clutch safety switch worked, but it did and I’m not arguing with it lol.

 

[rasband]

Very good notes. It’s funny seeing similar problems and troubles come to light. One issue I ran into during my swap which still remains a mystery;

When I was finally ready to start the Jeep for the first time it didn’t even crank. After some troubleshooting and panic regarding the wiring mess I had endured I decided to jumper the clutch safety switch and it fired right up. It shifted and ran great, but it threw a park/neutral switch code, resulting in cruise and low gears not working since the PCM couldn’t tell if it was in park or drive, and mind you this was with the automatic PCM installed. A few days later I decided to pull the jumper out of the clutch safety switch and everything has worked flawlessly since.

I have over 1000 miles on my swap now and everything works like factory. I still don’t understand how jumping the clutch safety switch worked, but it did and I’m not arguing with it lol.

Yours was even more involved! I'm not sure I could have taken that on, after reading it all I still don't fully understand what all you did.

 

[tworley]

When I was finally ready to start the Jeep for the first time it didn’t even crank. After some troubleshooting and panic regarding the wiring mess...

It was nice to have folks who knew what the end goal was. We went thru the wiring multiple times to make sure we weren't missing a plug, all the grounds were attached, and to make sure everything was gone over 2-3 times before firing. It felt pretty monumental when both started up on the first try and ran perfectly smooth.

 

[Jamison C]

It was nice to have folks who knew what the end goal was. We went thru the wiring multiple times to make sure we weren't missing a plug, all the grounds were attached, and to make sure everything was gone over 2-3 times before firing. It felt pretty monumental when both started up on the first try and ran perfectly smooth.

Part of my panic was because I had tripled checked the wiring harness I had built. I had used a multimeter to test every lead for continuity and proper pin placement and I knew 100% that it was right. The feeling of dread I felt not knowing what could be preventing it from starting was definitely monumental.

@rasband how much ATF did you use? I think I ended up using like 11-12 quarts by the time the dipstick read full. Way more than the FSM said.

 

[rasband]

@rasband how much ATF did you use? I think I ended up using like 11-12 quarts by the time the dipstick read full. Way more than the FSM said.

Did you do a dry fill?

I just filled it until it was full, but we had just yanked it from the other rig and it didn't lose a ton in the process (just the trans cooler lines and radiator). So I put in 2qts and was a little high. I won't know for another few weeks on the full amount though - I sent a new pan to Blaine to put in the bung for the temperature sensor. I figure I will drain it, replace the filter and gasket then to really know. Of course shortly after that I will be adding the setrab cooler which will bump up the amount by another quart maybe. But I want to run a few weeks without the cooler so I can see how big a difference the cooler makes (which I suspect is rather large).

 

[TJosh02]

been pontificating if an NV3550 to 42RLE was in the cards or worth it. Watching.