I agree. We’re coming into wheelin’ season. I’d like to hit some trails. This is a good time of year for me till August. I can hit the road some, which means I can hit the trails!

You at least have a good site for test and tune close.
 
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I wonder if there is some awful balancing act related to the engine load where yours is downshifting to make up for the terrible axle gearing.

There was that guy @Billy Bob or something like that from CA that used to drive everyone bonkers with his wild gear ratio advice. 3.73 and 35’s was like “the bomb”. He hated his 4.10’s in his Rubicon. 🤣
 
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There was that guy @Billy Bob or something like that from CA that used to drive everyone bonkers with his wild gear ratio advice. 3.73 and 35’s was like “the bomb”. He hated his 4.10’s in his Rubicon. 🤣

That's the one!
 
The funny thing about the OD switch is that even with 538 gears, I still turn off OD in town. When off, the shift points are moved higher, which makes driving better. OD only gets used on the highway.

I bet 1st gear is nice and peppy with those 5.38s. Like chirping the tires on take off peppy
 
I have an ATF leak where the two halves of the TCase meet. Really? I didn’t even work on that. This has happened before though. It’s something about the front half of the case being the Tera 4-Low. Along the bottom it’s very narrow where the halves meet.

To stay positive I have to keep reminding myself that there’s no RMS leak anymore! I bc think one of the keys there is letting the anaerobic sealant cure. 24 hours is probably good.

I needed to set up the switched power to the AutoMeter Transmission Gauge. It requires 3A. I wasn’t sure where to go. Fuse 6 had a 20A and filled by the seat heaters. Fuse 14 is a 10A and filled by the rear locker. Fuse 18 is a 20A but inaccessible because the Fuse 14?is right next door and blocking it. The good news is @tworley mentioned in a thread for seat heaters that they draw 5-6amps, so being on a 20A fuse I could tap into it and still be well within. Went for a drive and it moved up to 125*F at 47*F outside temp. I’ll keep an eye on omit over the coming months. I want it not to exceed 209*F. Checked the transmission fluid level and it looked good!

IMG_2880.jpeg
 
I have an ATF leak where the two halves of the TCase meet. Really? I didn’t even work on that. This has happened before though. It’s something about the front half of the case being the Tera 4-Low. Along the bottom it’s very narrow where the halves meet.

To stay positive I have to keep reminding myself that there’s no RMS leak anymore! I bc think one of the keys there is letting the anaerobic sealant cure. 24 hours is probably good.

I needed to set up the switched power to the AutoMeter Transmission Gauge. It requires 3A. I wasn’t sure where to go. Fuse 6 had a 20A and filled by the seat heaters. Fuse 14 is a 10A and filled by the rear locker. Fuse 18 is a 20A but inaccessible because the Fuse 14?is right next door and blocking it. The good news is @tworley mentioned in a thread for seat heaters that they draw 5-6amps, so being on a 20A fuse I could tap into it and still be well within. Went for a drive and it moved up to 125*F at 47*F outside temp. Checked the transmission fluid level and it looked good!

View attachment 504286

For reference, ignition on power for gauges, relay triggers, and other low current devices is very easily done by using a fuse tap in the instrument cluster fuse slot. On most builds we typically have the Accu-speed, gauge, and a few relays being fed off of a 5 or 10 amp fuse in the tap.
 
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I have an ATF leak where the two halves of the TCase meet. Really? I didn’t even work on that. This has happened before though. It’s something about the front half of the case being the Tera 4-Low. Along the bottom it’s very narrow where the halves meet.

To stay positive I have to keep reminding myself that there’s no RMS leak anymore! I bc think one of the keys there is letting the anaerobic sealant cure. 24 hours is probably good.

I needed to set up the switched power to the AutoMeter Transmission Gauge. It requires 3A. I wasn’t sure where to go. Fuse 6 had a 20A and filled by the seat heaters. Fuse 14 is a 10A and filled by the rear locker. Fuse 18 is a 20A but inaccessible because the Fuse 14?is right next door and blocking it. The good news is @tworley mentioned in a thread for seat heaters that they draw 5-6amps, so being on a 20A fuse I could tap into it and still be well within. Went for a drive and it moved up to 125*F at 47*F outside temp. I’ll keep an eye on omit over the coming months. I want it not to exceed 209*F. Checked the transmission fluid level and it looked good!

View attachment 504286

My money would be on the trans output seal leaking down and back.

Clean it real good and see if its coming from where the trans and tcase meet.
 
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I needed to set up the switched power to the AutoMeter Transmission Gauge. It requires 3A. I wasn’t sure where to go. Fuse 6 had a 20A and filled by the seat heaters. Fuse 14 is a 10A and filled by the rear locker. Fuse 18 is a 20A but inaccessible because the Fuse 14?is right next door and blocking it. The good news is @tworley mentioned in a thread for seat heaters that they draw 5-6amps, so being on a 20A fuse I could tap into it and still be well within.

I vaguely remember talking about this, but I thought it was closer to 10 amps. For some reason 7 sounds right...
 
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My money would be on the trans output seal leaking down and back.

Clean it real good and see if its coming from where the trans and tcase meet.

That could be. I’ll keep cleaning and watching. I replaced the TCase input seal about 1 year ago, but the tranny output is definite possibility. I know nothing about the tranny beyond what I was told and assuming it is trustworthy it came out of an ‘05 LJ in Vancouver, WA, with 72,000 miles.

Thanks for the idea. No fluid on the tranny pan. All near where the tranny meets the TCase, and back further, especially on the TCase, and on the crossmember. I’ll check the run pattern too, which could give an idea.
 
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My money would be on the trans output seal leaking down and back.

Clean it real good and see if its coming from where the trans and tcase meet.

What’s the best way to remove the transmission output seal? I think in the past I drilled some screws into these types of seals to have something to pull them out with.
 
The shifter was decently adjusted, and would start in P and N, but when I put it in P and tried to turn the key off it would only move to the on position. I had to tap the shifter back slightly and then it would allow the key to turn off. I spent a few minutes adjusting it tonight and it seems perfect now.

The starter didn’t engage a few times on the first start, so I checked the tightness of the bolts on the starter and gave them a bit more. Checked the voltage (12.65). Hope that solves it.

I fixed more wiring that just needed better connectors. I’m really addicted to using the non-insulated butt and ring terminal connectors with adhesive heat shrink. I can’t stop!

I’ve got a few more kinks to work out. The biggest one is I have a transmission leak at the rear output shaft. I run a Tera 4-Low TCase, and @Wildman told me that the 42rle needs an extended seal when used with this TCase. The one I’m looking claims it works up to ‘02 (32rh). I can’t find anything else. Anyone know if that seal will work, or what seal I need? I’d already purchased a run-of-the-mill Precision brand seal, but don’t want to install it if it’s wrong. Once I get this worked out I’ll hit the trail.

I loosened the stover nuts on the Brown Dog MML to see if there’s a vibration difference.

I can already tell I’m going to need a BBK.

It’s still so odd to drive. Sounds entirely different. Feels entirely different.
 
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The shifter was decently adjusted, and would start in P and N, but when I put it in P and tried to turn the key off it would only move to the on position. I had to tap the shifter back slightly and then it would allow the key to turn off. I spent a few minutes adjusting it tonight and it seems perfect now.

The starter didn’t engage a few times on the first start, so I checked the tightness of the bolts on the starter and gave them a bit more. Checked the voltage (12.65). Hope that solves it.

I fixed more wiring that just needed better connectors. I’m really addicted to using the non-insulated butt and ring terminal connectors with adhesive heat shrink. I can’t stop!

I’ve got a few more kinks to work out. The biggest one is I have a transmission leak at the rear output shaft. I run a Tera 4-Low TCase, and @Wildman told me that the 42rle needs an extended seal when used with this TCase. The one I’m looking claims it works up to ‘02 (32rh). I can’t find anything else. Anyone know if that seal will work, or what seal I need? I’d already purchased a run-of-the-mill Precision brand seal, but don’t want to install it if it’s wrong. Once I get this worked out I’ll hit the trail.

I loosened the Brown Dog MML to see if there’s a vibration difference.

I can already tell I’m going to need a BBK.

It’s still so odd to drive. Sounds entirely different. Feels entirely different.

It's my SWAG as to what could be causing the leak. Not sure which input gear is used on the 42RLE compared to the manual transmission.
Hopefully you can find something more to confirm this.

Otherwise great job. As everyone keeps telling me it's that last 10% that takes the longest to finish.