OP
Oh yeah. Lockers all the way. An unlocked rig in the soft dirt at the end of the video would be done, but with the lockers she just kept going!
05' JMT's Twin Teenager's Rubicon Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
It's going to be worth it, but oh my, the work ahead of you! 
OP
It’s daunting. I think both of us are a little taken aback, even comatose.It's going to be worth it, but oh my, the work ahead of you!
P.s. I need a larger compressor just to run a needle scaler. I need a set of Hercules too with plenty of batteries. At least the 1/2 impact wrench, the grinder, and the sawzall.
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Have you tried removing the skid plate yet? Just wondering the condition. Do you plan on removing the tub to restore the frame?
I think I would have chosen the rubicon.
I think I would have chosen the rubicon.
Not sure how much air you need but I bought this one a year or so ago when I still had the media cabinet. (Sold the media cabinet because it took up way too much space)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Califor...NxMHC-zWBspvC0DuSDIaAgY6EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Compared to the craftsman I had before it's dead quite. The old compressor would rattle my brain and this one I can use and still carry on a conversation while it's running feet away.
OP
No, we haven't got to the skid yet. Right now I'm just calculating the order to do this. I already figure that if I have 5 things scheduled to do in a day I'll get through 1-2 of them, so it's a lot of work. I'm prepared to drill out the old nutserts at the TCase skid and install new, but I want to do that at the same time I clean up the inside of the frame, rust convert, and top-coat. That way nothing is sticking up in the frame and I get those holes cleaned up and painted before putting in new nutserts. It doesn't look toooo bad, but I can see on the outside I'll be grinding off the rust, rust converting, and top coating with semi-flat black. Hopefully it will turn out nice when we get done. I just have to be more patient than I usually am with these projects. I was not planning on removing the tub to restore the frame. I don't think I have the room to do that in our little neighborhood.
I have thought about it more than once though!
OP
20 gallon is probably sufficient for running needle scalers and the like. I was looking at 26-30 just to be safe. I need to actually take some time to think it through. My mind is going all over the place with the projects we need to complete. Spring is here too, so the wife wants the yard to get in shape!
Yard vs Jeep vs Yard vs Jeep. I go with Jeep every time
Might as well start adding penetrating oil to the bolts now. Maybe you'll get lucky and they'll break free without spinning.
OP
I’ve been thinking about that. Not excited about the upper rear shock bolts.
Don't but a compressor based on tank size... Buy on cfm. Tank size is important, but you can have a huge tank and still run out of air, if the pump can't move enough CFM.
Pick your highest use tools and go for a 70- 80 percent duty cycle. That should give your a decent recovery time.
Pick your highest use tools and go for a 70- 80 percent duty cycle. That should give your a decent recovery time.
OP
I hope the interesting trail run does NOT involve rips in the sidewalls!
Then it won't help if I tell you about the hundreds (yes, hundreds) of hours I spend on each vehicle removing and addressing every bit of rust possible. And, mine haven't been that bad!
OP
We woke up with renewed vigor! Plotting all morning!Then it won't help if I tell you about the hundreds (yes, hundreds) of hours I spend on each vehicle removing and addressing every bit of rust possible. And, mine haven't been that bad!
I'm not the most knowledgeable jeep guy by any means but I've spent a lot of time removing rust and I can eyeball by now what is cancerous and what is not. Whatever you do don't skimp out on the pneumatic power. I used an 80 gallon air compressor first ingersoll rand then dewalt with a couple of different needlescalers from harbor freight. But like Mike said it's not just the tank size that matters. I still wish I had more power but it worked good for sustained use. The best needlescaler I used hands down was an electric 1100 w made by the company Swansoft, bought it on amazon for 479.99. It worked amazing fast at removing rust, like 5x times faster than using pneumatic power. It worked so well I didn't even need to finish off with a angle grinder and wire wheel. but it was a chinese pos that overheated quickly. At first Amazon wouldn't refund because it was after 30 days, then the company directly intervened after I left a nasty review. I got the 500 dollars and the needlescaler is still sitting in my garage. I suspect it needs a new battery but I'm done with it. I suppose if someone wanted to get a project done real quick they could buy the needlescaler then return it and say it shit the bed. Ive considered buying a "Nitto" needlescaler but they're like 1000 dollars.20 gallon is probably sufficient for running needle scalers and the like. I was looking at 26-30 just to be safe. I need to actually take some time to think it through. My mind is going all over the place with the projects we need to complete. Spring is here too, so the wife wants the yard to get in shape!
Yard vs Jeep vs Yard vs Jeep. I go with Jeep every time
I clocked something like 80 hours on my jeep for rust removal, and about the same hours on one of my dad's dump trucks.Then it won't help if I tell you about the hundreds (yes, hundreds) of hours I spend on each vehicle removing and addressing every bit of rust possible. And, mine haven't been that bad!
OP
Day 06: The front fenders are both rusted through.
$206.99 + shipping for new aftermarket OEM look alike fenders + $285/fender for Maaco to paint match is ~$850. That dog won't hunt for K. He mentioned HiLines. That's $800 just for the front and still have to paint. He brought up the MCE option and when he saw some pics of a Patriot Blue with silver painted MCE's he fell in love with that. The plan today is 4.5" MCE Fenders and DIY adhesion promoter and paint to match the Rubicon decal.This paint scheme is sharp. @Wildman will love this.
View attachment 319471
He opted to cut out all the rust on the rear corner and weld in a piece, prime, paint to prevent future rust, then body match Poison Spyder Body Armor to cover. @Alex01 turned us on to ERA Paints in Portland, OR. We ordered some Primer, 2K Patriot Blue, and 2K Clear. We will be using this on various spots as well as the corner armor.
That's it for now, but the goal is keep it as simple as possible and save dollars. I'm pitching in $700, but we still have a ways to go. The frame alone will cost $250 or so. Most of it is time and work.
$206.99 + shipping for new aftermarket OEM look alike fenders + $285/fender for Maaco to paint match is ~$850. That dog won't hunt for K. He mentioned HiLines. That's $800 just for the front and still have to paint. He brought up the MCE option and when he saw some pics of a Patriot Blue with silver painted MCE's he fell in love with that. The plan today is 4.5" MCE Fenders and DIY adhesion promoter and paint to match the Rubicon decal.This paint scheme is sharp. @Wildman will love this.
View attachment 319471
He opted to cut out all the rust on the rear corner and weld in a piece, prime, paint to prevent future rust, then body match Poison Spyder Body Armor to cover. @Alex01 turned us on to ERA Paints in Portland, OR. We ordered some Primer, 2K Patriot Blue, and 2K Clear. We will be using this on various spots as well as the corner armor.
That's it for now, but the goal is keep it as simple as possible and save dollars. I'm pitching in $700, but we still have a ways to go. The frame alone will cost $250 or so. Most of it is time and work.
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Good for him. I can’t see spending that kind of money for stock fenders.Day 06: The front fenders are both rusted through.
$206.99 + shipping for new aftermarket OEM look alike fenders + $285/fender for Maaco to paint match is ~$850. That dog won't hunt for K. He mentioned HiLines. That's $800 just for the front and still have to paint. He brought up the MCE option and when he saw some pics of a Patriot Blue with silver painted MCE's he fell in love with that. The plan today is 4.5" MCE Fenders and DIY adhesion promoter and paint to match the Rubicon decal.This paint scheme is sharp. @Wildman will love this.
View attachment 319471
He opted to cut out all the rust on the rear corner and weld in a piece, prime, paint to prevent future rust, then body match Poison Spyder Body Armor to cover. @Alex01 turned us on to ERA Paints in Portland, OR. We ordered some Primer, 2K Patriot Blue, and 2K Clear. We will be using this on various spots as well as the corner armor.
That's it for now, but the goal is keep it as simple as possible and save dollars. I'm pitching in $700, but we still have a ways to go. The frame alone will cost $250 or so. Most of it is time and work.
Then it won't help if I tell you about the hundreds (yes, hundreds) of hours I spend on each vehicle removing and addressing every bit of rust possible. And, mine haven't been that bad!
Your photos show the amount of work you put in. I have always been amazed by your "before" vs "after". I am not sure I can sell a jeep that I have put so much work on like you do!
Teenage girls are the same. I bought a TJ for my two daughters to share. Right now only the oldest daughter has a license; youngest is going to start driving later this year. My oldest has gotten pretty vocal about not wanting little sister to drive her Jeep. I'm thinking I will live longer if I just get the youngest her own TJ.
HA, I knew HiLines would be brought up....Day 06: The front fenders are both rusted through.
$206.99 + shipping for new aftermarket OEM look alike fenders + $285/fender for Maaco to paint match is ~$850. That dog won't hunt for K. He mentioned HiLines. That's $800 just for the front and still have to paint. He brought up the MCE option and when he saw some pics of a Patriot Blue with silver painted MCE's he fell in love with that. The plan today is 4.5" MCE Fenders and DIY adhesion promoter and paint to match the Rubicon decal.This paint scheme is sharp. @Wildman will love this.
View attachment 319471
He opted to cut out all the rust on the rear corner and weld in a piece, prime, paint to prevent future rust, then body match Poison Spyder Body Armor to cover. @Alex01 turned us on to ERA Paints in Portland, OR. We ordered some Primer, 2K Patriot Blue, and 2K Clear. We will be using this on various spots as well as the corner armor.
That's it for now, but the goal is keep it as simple as possible and save dollars. I'm pitching in $700, but we still have a ways to go. The frame alone will cost $250 or so. Most of it is time and work.
Whats the plan for the front, right, rubi fender flare?
Spray cans may not be the best for corner armor. Assuming it's the kind that wrap to the doors. A $15 spray gun and some automotive paint would be better since it has a larger coverage area. It'll be hard to not get tiger strips with a can imo. Smaller stuff the cans are perfect.Day 06: The front fenders are both rusted through.
$206.99 + shipping for new aftermarket OEM look alike fenders + $285/fender for Maaco to paint match is ~$850. That dog won't hunt for K. He mentioned HiLines. That's $800 just for the front and still have to paint. He brought up the MCE option and when he saw some pics of a Patriot Blue with silver painted MCE's he fell in love with that. The plan today is 4.5" MCE Fenders and DIY adhesion promoter and paint to match the Rubicon decal.This paint scheme is sharp. @Wildman will love this.
View attachment 319471
He opted to cut out all the rust on the rear corner and weld in a piece, prime, paint to prevent future rust, then body match Poison Spyder Body Armor to cover. @Alex01 turned us on to ERA Paints in Portland, OR. We ordered some Primer, 2K Patriot Blue, and 2K Clear. We will be using this on various spots as well as the corner armor.
That's it for now, but the goal is keep it as simple as possible and save dollars. I'm pitching in $700, but we still have a ways to go. The frame alone will cost $250 or so. Most of it is time and work.