06 Rubi reassembly headaches

AndyG

Because some other guys are perverts
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90,000 mile vehicle, has seen plenty of use off road and on.

All new hub unit bearings, axle u joints, brake pads. Cleaned and greased all the sliders on calipers, anti squeal on backs of pads.

Had right rear caliper sieze after all this -replaced, did fine.

Now the front drivers side rotor is getting very hot but it's pulling hard right on braking only (doesn't make sense ) and the right front axle is leaking pretty bad.

Tell me what I did wrong .

Andy
 
Did the caliper brackets have any wear on them where the pads ride?
 
If the front left caliper is seized, it might not only not retract, but not compress as well. Thus the passenger's side could be doing most of the braking, leading to a right side pull while braking.

Did you thoroughly flush all four calipers when replacing the previous one?
 
Yes, flushed all. No sign of wear I can remember , but I can disassemble and recheck .

It does seem like the above post is fairly accurate, it will retract enough to roll but it's letting the right side do the work on stopping ..seems it's releasing partially and getting hot , now pulling left occasionally at speed and steering wheel shaking slightly, but not compressing properly.

Is the axle seal leak from damaging the seal inside the tube/diff on reassembly?
 
It's possible the seal got nicked, especially if the shafts weren't held centered as they were inserted, or if dirt got onto the axle shaft or seal surfaces.

It could also be that when the shafts were removed, some fluid poured into the axle tube, but due to the angle of the axle, it didn't pour out the end of the tube until it was back on its wheels.

If you're using BMB pads and they aren't properly broken in, they could cause a pull as well. You might attempt an aggressive break-in procedure for the brakes and see if that makes a difference. Though if a caliper is seized, you'll probably want to fix that first.
 
Thanks , if you take what I spend for tools , and mistakes , it makes a shop doing the work a good consideration.

Truthfully , if I can't get it out to drive it , working on it is a great hobby. Pretty therapeutic.

Occasionally gets a little frustrating, and I'm doing it all after hours, so probably not at my sharpest.

I worked as a mechanic when I was younger , but that was way way back. Can't even eyeball a wrench size these days .

Oh well, let's keep it between us girls.
 
It's possible the seal got nicked, especially if the shafts weren't held centered as they were inserted, or if dirt got onto the axle shaft or seal surfaces.

It could also be that when the shafts were removed, some fluid poured into the axle tube, but due to the angle of the axle, it didn't pour out the end of the tube until it was back on its wheels.

If you're using BMB pads and they aren't properly broken in, they could cause a pull as well. You might attempt an aggressive break-in procedure for the brakes and see if that makes a difference. Though if a caliper is seized, you'll probably want to fix that first.
I have seen axles dump a little , thanks for reminding me that can happen.
 
Are those little u shaped metal liners that go on the caliper at the bottom of the pad critical?
 
I'm not sure about critical, but they are intended to keep the pads from binding on the knuckle. If you're missing them, definitely reinstall them.
 
I don’t believe the TJ uses those anti-rattle clips on the front, only the rear.
 
I don’t believe the TJ uses those anti-rattle clips on the front, only the rear.
I was hoping something like those clips missing would explain bit... comes and goes.
 
I was hoping something like those clips missing would explain bit... comes and goes.
It’s probably a sticking piston in the caliper, but I would inspect the caliper brackets for a worn groove where the pads ride and make sure the caliper bolt sleeves move freely because those two things cost no money to inspect for reusability.
 
It’s probably a sticking piston in the caliper, but I would inspect the caliper brackets for a worn groove where the pads ride and make sure the caliper bolt sleeves move freely because those two things cost no money to inspect for reusability.
I went down a mountain when all this started.

We stopped and ate at a waffle house and let em cool, drove it 25 miles + home, city and rural driving ...no smell, no heat, no pull when driving , no pull when braking.

It's one of those "I'd like to think it's fixed but know better " deals .

I agree it's the caliper, I greased the sleeves thoroughly , and they were in good shape.

Will likely tear into it soon and check my work and the contact areas @Daryl mentioned .

Disturbing crusty old pistons that haven't likely been pushed back in a decade is likely the deal.

Gonna watch that right fluid leak.

As always, thanks for chiming in.

Quality forum here.
 
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Pull all the mounting hardware and confirm it not them that won't move. Put a c clamp on the caliper piston and see if it moves. If everything seems ok degrease the pins and reassemble. Check the rotors for discoloration or chatter wear. Check pads as well. Check the caliper can slide in and out easily without pads and then with.
 
Pull all the mounting hardware and confirm it not them that won't move. Put a c clamp on the caliper piston and see if it moves. If everything seems ok degrease the pins and reassemble. Check the rotors for discoloration or chatter wear. Check pads as well. Check the caliper can slide in and out easily without pads and then with.
Not following "it not them"
 
I had a sticky right caliper with newer bmb brake pad and after an email and phone call with mr Blaine he suggested i pop the piston out clean it up, I did that did a new seal from Napa and it works great now
 
I had a sticky right caliper with newer bmb brake pad and after an email and phone call with mr Blaine he suggested i pop the piston out clean it up, I did that did a new seal from Napa and it works great now
I've done that with dirt bike calipers... I was wondering if caliper parts were available.
 
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