06 Rubicon No Locker Light On Dash

You wire the compressors with a simple on-off switch exactly like you'd use if you were wiring a simple 12 volt light. As I mentioned in my #19 post on the first page of this thread.

The sensors indicating the lockers are locked will no longer work nor are they needed. No other lockers we install into our Jeeps have or use sensors that verify they are locked. You can easily tell when they are locked/unlocked by how your Jeep drives.
Sounds good never had a 4WD let alone locking diffs before! Didn’t know how you would tell.
 
Sounds good never had a 4WD let alone locking diffs before! Didn’t know how you would tell.
They drive radially different with lockers engaged, unless you're on a really low-traction surface. You can tell within seconds of locking or unlocking the lockers. If you were on pavement (or other high traction surface), where lockers should not be turned on, the tires will chirp and crow-hop when turning around corners if the lockers are engaged.
 
Jerry, My 2004 Rubicon lights in the dash flash and never stop although the lockers are working fine. What do you think the problem is. My profile picture is of my other jeep.
 
Jerry, My 2004 Rubicon lights in the dash flash and never stop although the lockers are working fine. What do you think the problem is. My profile picture is of my other jeep.
Have your lockers been removed for something like regearing? Something is up with the locker sensors.
 
Jerry, I just bought this Jeep, so I don't know some of the history. I would say it has not been regeared. The TJ has 75,000 miles on it. It was flat towed behind a motor home for a good many miles with the battery or the speedo disconnected. so the gears will have a lot more miles on them. Can you get the lockers half in gear? What tells light in the dash to go solid?
 
Jerry, I just bought this Jeep, so I don't know some of the history. I would say it has not been regeared. The TJ has 75,000 miles on it. It was flat towed behind a motor home for a good many miles with the battery or the speedo disconnected. so the gears will have a lot more miles on them. Can you get the lockers half in gear? What tells light in the dash to go solid?
If they feel completely locked with no unusual noises I'd have to guess your problem is with the sensor located in both axles. The sensor has a plunger that gets pulled out when they're completely locked which turns the locker lights steady. The sensors are the only thing on the axle housing that has an electrical cable going to it, it's up near the top of the pumpkin.

This shows the plunger of the sensor, the top hat of it hooks over the locker actuator that pulls it outward when the locker is locked. That red thing is the stub of a toothpick used to hold the sensor fully open when reinstalling the locker so the locker and sensor are properly linked together.

Toothpick.jpg
 
Just because your locker pumps work doesn't mean they could still be defective. Their operation is to pump 5-10 psi then shut off. I've come across several pumps that just continuously run even with the axle supply line blocked for testing. They take a beating beneath the vehicle, especially if you live in a state that spreads salt in winter months.

Another place that tends to fail, and is often overlooked, is the air entrance nipple at the differential. Trace the 3/16" hose from the pumps to the differential. Where it enters the differential, it may have rotted and developed a leak.

But don't worry (input sarcasm), the entrance nipples can be bought for $100 each, locker pumps for $125-$150, and good luck finding locker bladders.

Hopefully its something simple. Get your pumps/lockers/lights working before you spend the time doing a locker bypass or pump relocation. You could be doing it for nothing.
 
I had the same issue when I bought my 2006 Rubicon a year ago. I'm 100% functional now. I rebuilt both air pumps. I can walk you through that if you want or I rebuild them for friends for $50 each. I've rebuilt 8 so far. As soon as you power up the pump it should be up to 4.5 to 5 PSI within 5 seconds. They should also release pressure quickly when turned off. The solenoid rusts up and sometimes will not release quickly (like 2 seconds). My air diaphragms in the differentials were leaking. I think previous owner put more than 5 psi on them and blew out the bellows. I found used replacement diffs here on this site. I also moved the air pumps from under the drivers seat to just below the brake vacuum diaphragm under the hood. I use the vehicle almost daily on my farm. Rubicon feature about once a month or more. Great feature and a lot of fun! Regarding switches I'd have to look at mine to confirm but from what I recall simple 2 prong (or 3 prong) will work. Mine was prewired with the added switches. The dash indicators are wired to the pump power and positions sensors in the diffs. Flash when pump on, sold on when the diaphragms are expanded (axels locked together via teeth/notches in the diff assembly).