06 X Build: A Little at a Time

The stock linkage is attached to the tub at one end and the TC at the other. When you raise the body with a body lift, the tub side gets put in a bind since only one side is moving, so problems with shifting could happen. Personally, I've never had much of a problem with my stock TC linkage even when I lowered my TC skid down 1", or after I installed my baby body lift, but the bigger BL's sometimes create an issue.
 
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The stock linkage is attached to the tub at one end and the TC at the other. When you raise the body with a body lift, the tub side gets put in a bind since only one side is moving, so problems with shifting could happen. Personally, I've never had much of a problem with my stock TC linkage even when I lowered my TC skid down 1", or after I installed my baby body lift, but the bigger BL's sometimes create an issue.
So are you still using the stock linkage setup?
 
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Alright, looks like my exhaust doesn't have enough clearance from the (brand new) shock and when it hits, it melts the boot.
What's the solution? Wrap it in heat shield? Or should I just get a new exhaust built that has more clearance? I think one of my hangers are broken so I may go the exhaust route anyway... should I tell the shop anything special other than that there it needs to be rerouted to give the shock more clearance?
 
Cut the boots off and get rid of them. You should have plenty of clearance after that.
I was going to pull them off from the start, but I couldn't get the dang things off. I figured it I was going to leave the rear ones on, I'd throw the front ones off too.
If I just snip the bottom will they come essentially peel off? The rears are hard plastic and not rubber.
 
I painted them black with the boots on. Ugh. They were fully expanded though, so I should only have a small portion to touch up. It might be so far up that you can't see it anyway.
 
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Without the shocks off, I snipped the top slightly as it’s sort of folded in, to let it go wider, and then pulled down and I’ve the bottom of the shock.
 
Cut the boots off and get rid of them. You should have plenty of clearance after that.

X2. Take them off. I had to remove my Ranchos to get the boot off, but now that they are off, there's a lot more room.

@Chris did the same thing after finding out the boots were rubbing and making a noise he couldn't pinpoint.

Yep, I was getting an awful sound from one of my boots where it was hitting the edge of my fuel tank skid plate. It drove me crazy for months until I finally figured out what it was!
 
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Problem number two: I was working on lowering the skid plate to install my new t case shifter, and the whole time I'm worrying about if the nutserts are going to cooperate or not. I sprayed everything down with PB, but I never actually got to the nutserts because these guys decided to break on me.
Can I get new bolts? Or do I need to get a new mount? and if I do need a mount, can someone post a link?
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Gear setup complete!

Everything went very smoothly, and I realized just how much the guy I was working with really knows. He had two race trucks in his garage that he built completely custom from just a frame. I'm hoping I can get him to help me with more projects in the future!

Now that all the fun is over, I have to do all the dumb school side of things (as it was my senior project).
 
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Pinion seal leak... That's no good. Might have to replace the front u-joints while I'm at it.

View attachment 71663

Get a new pinion nut while your at it. $5-7 is all. They are considered a one-time use nut, though many reuse them (its cheap enough to replace). They are oblong from the factory, but that is for them to hold their place as its a lot of torque to get them into position.

Also, be careful when installing the new nut, if you over tighten the pinion nut the pinion bearing tolerance changes and may fail. This is because the dana30 uses a crush sleeve.
 
Get a new pinion nut while your at it. $5-7 is all. They are considered a one-time use nut, though many reuse them (its cheap enough to replace). They are oblong from the factory, but that is for them to hold their place as its a lot of torque to get them into position.

Also, be careful when installing the new nut, if you over tighten the pinion nut the pinion bearing tolerance changes and may fail. This is because the dana30 uses a crush sleeve.
Will do. I'm surprised this is leaking considering I regeared about 3 months/4,000 miles ago. Crush sleeve is indeed a pain.
 
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