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1310 vs 1330 vs 1350 u-joints

TreverStevens

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I'm starting to look into drive shafts for my custom project (5.9L magnum swap, 241 TC, and Ford 8.8). I'm guessing I should at least go with a 1330 u-joint in whatever driveshaft option I go with over the 1310. How much stronger are the 1350's over the 1330's? Is it worth the added price bump it's going to cost? I'm planning on ordering a conversion flange from somewhere for the differential side of the driveshaft and probably going to be buying from somewhere like Adam's Driveshafts or Tom Wood's (unless someone can point me towards a cheap but equal quality option). I'm currently running 33" tires but once these ones are gone I'll be going to 35's. I think I've kind of answered my own question here and plan to go with the 1350, but just wanting to make sure I have my facts straight.
 

jjvw

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Will there be any driveshaft limitations created by the suspension travel?
 

Jerry Bransford

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X2 to the 1310 recommendation, I'd definitely go no bigger than 1330. 1350 u-joints are unnecessarily big which can also limit the driveshaft's max operating angle. I installed a 1350 rear driveshaft and at full droop it sounded like a machine gun as it rotated. It's now in my trailer as a spare, that's it.
 
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TreverStevens

TreverStevens

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So the 1310's aren't going to be all that much weaker than the 1330? I broke a u-joint in my F250 a few years back while driving on the street and have always feared that happening again with my TJ and heaven forbid, while out wheeling, or traveling. It took me almost 2 days to find a place to repair the DS on the PowerStroke because it destroyed the "ears" on the driveshaft and had to get the end chopped off and a "new" one welded on.
 

Jerry Bransford

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Broken u-joints are most commonly caused by age, lack of lubrication, and/or improper drivetrain angles. I wouldn't diagnose that broken u-joint on pure lack of strength. And there are some shitty quality aftermarket u-joints that don't hold up as well as a quality brand like Spicer. And if the u-joint has a zerk fitting, few people keep them properly greased.

Personally I'd either go with a Spicer 5-1310x or a Spicer 5-1330x which is sealed and well known to be stronger and far more durable than most other u-joints. That's what I insist Tom Wood build my shafts with.
 
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TreverStevens

TreverStevens

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I had planned on doing the greaseless option merely because I don't stay up on regular maintenance like I should (especially for what I demand out of my vehicles) and an other grease zerk is one more thing I don't need. Thanks for the input.
 

toximus

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I had planned on doing the greaseless option merely because I don't stay up on regular maintenance like I should (especially for what I demand out of my vehicles) and an other grease zerk is one more thing I don't need. Thanks for the input.
The centering ball and splines will still need to be greased which involves removing the driveshaft. I had talked with Tom about using an OEM style non-greasable ball and he advised against it for my builds.
 

Grant Lasson

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Curtis Tatton built my front driveline 7 years ago after a serious angry sparrows mishap. He was local so I visited his shop. I just had it off the other night for inspection and cardan lubrication. Still in great shape.

 

Blackjack

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Stick with a 1310 double cardan and go with either 1310 or 1330 at the pinion. IMO you need to decide what you want to break if you wheel hard enough. I would rather that be a driveshaft versus a tcase or a ring and pinion.
 

k-huevo

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Houston
I'm starting to look into drive shafts for my custom project (5.9L magnum swap, 241 TC, and Ford 8.8). I'm guessing I should at least go with a 1330 u-joint in whatever driveshaft option I go with over the 1310. How much stronger are the 1350's over the 1330's? Is it worth the added price bump it's going to cost? I'm planning on ordering a conversion flange from somewhere for the differential side of the driveshaft and probably going to be buying from somewhere like Adam's Driveshafts or Tom Wood's (unless someone can point me towards a cheap but equal quality option). I'm currently running 33" tires but once these ones are gone I'll be going to 35's. I think I've kind of answered my own question here and plan to go with the 1350, but just wanting to make sure I have my facts straight.
Contact Jess at High Angle Drivetrain if you're looking for a conversion flange https://www.facebook.com/High-Angle-Driveline-158745380823009/ He also makes a high angle 1350 driveshaft. https://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index5.html
 

Goatman

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If the 1310 is preferred why did Jeep up them to 1330 in the Rubicon? I know some are 1310, but why the "upgrade"? Because of the 4:1 transfer? Or because it looks good in the brochure? Serious question. And if I'm putting new Ujoints in my 06 Rub. How many of each and where do they go?
 

pcoplin

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If the 1310 is preferred why did Jeep up them to 1330 in the Rubicon? I know some are 1310, but why the "upgrade"? Because of the 4:1 transfer? Or because it looks good in the brochure? Serious question. And if I'm putting new Ujoints in my 06 Rub. How many of each and where do they go?

For one, a stock Rubicon doesn't need the droop we try to make them do with lifts and longer shocks. Two, they don't have a double cardan from factory. The 1310 double cardan assembly can handle more droop than all but a 1410 setup.
 
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TreverStevens

TreverStevens

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The centering ball and splines will still need to be greased which involves removing the driveshaft. I had talked with Tom about using an OEM style non-greasable ball and he advised against it for my builds.
I've heard the grease-able ones are weaker due to the tapping for the zerk. Is this true? And how much weaker?
 

Blackjack

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I've heard the grease-able ones are weaker due to the tapping for the zerk. Is this true? And how much weaker?
The Spicer SPL series joints are stronger because they use a cold forged cross that is denser than the crosses in the standard joints and the non greasable versions are not cross drilled. Now as for the centering ball I prefer the greasable as the non greasable balls tend to run dry before the ujoints wear out. You have to still have to grease the splines in the slip so you might as well add some grease to the center ball as well.
 

Goatman

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For one, a stock Rubicon doesn't need the droop we try to make them do with lifts and longer shocks. Two, they don't have a double cardan from factory. The 1310 double cardan assembly can handle more droop than all but a 1410 setup.
Well I'm guessing that's why 1310's are the only ones used in any of our PTO drive lines. They get put into some crazy angles at times. Thanks.
 
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TreverStevens

TreverStevens

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@Jerry Bransford @pcoplin
Would you ever do a 1350 at the pinion? Or just avoid the 1350 completely? I'm weighing my options of do I just want a flange adapter on my 8.8 or do I want to pay 3x as much and put a yoke? If I do the adapter I would probably go with the 1310 or 1330, but if I do a yoke my options are 1310 or 1350.
 
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TreverStevens

TreverStevens

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Blackjack

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