OP
1310 vs 1330 vs 1350 u-joints
- Thread starter TreverStevens
- Start date
EzPeezy
TJ Enthusiast
I'd stick with the stock type 8.8 round flange. If it ever gets into the rocks the circular flange will move a lot easier than the yoke would.
A pinion flange and flange yoke arrangement just makes life from a service standpoint much easier. You also do not have small bolts and straps to worry about. And you already have the pinion flange so why spend more money than necessary.
Brianj5600
TJ Expert
I would let the person that you trust to build your driveshaft chose what u-joint you need. Call them.
This is an excerpt from an email response I got from Tom Wood.
“I agree with you on your wanting strength, over the lowest cost. In fact, here is a portion of a form letter I use for similar inquiries, about the JK drive shafts;
“If you are on the fence about what size of drive shaft to select, please keep this in mind: I have never seen our 1350 drive shaft, for the JK break, because of torque. I cannot say the same about the 1310 series. The cost differential is minimal, at about $160.00. If it were me, I would rather be driving down the trail, un-broken, than sitting by the trail with the remote possibility that I still have the $160.00 in my wallet.” Most people see, and understand, this reasoning, and will buy the 1350 drive shafts. This approach has substantially lowered our problems of a drive shaft breaking because it was under-rated for their vehicle.”
My biggest concern with the 1350 shaft was that it might not be able to support 4” of lift and a TT on a TJ Rubicon with the stock transfer case output and mass vibration damper. But it seems that wasn’t an issue per our emails. Thus I went with the 1350 shaft.
Note the 1350 applies only to the CV; the other end is still a 1330.
“I agree with you on your wanting strength, over the lowest cost. In fact, here is a portion of a form letter I use for similar inquiries, about the JK drive shafts;
“If you are on the fence about what size of drive shaft to select, please keep this in mind: I have never seen our 1350 drive shaft, for the JK break, because of torque. I cannot say the same about the 1310 series. The cost differential is minimal, at about $160.00. If it were me, I would rather be driving down the trail, un-broken, than sitting by the trail with the remote possibility that I still have the $160.00 in my wallet.” Most people see, and understand, this reasoning, and will buy the 1350 drive shafts. This approach has substantially lowered our problems of a drive shaft breaking because it was under-rated for their vehicle.”
My biggest concern with the 1350 shaft was that it might not be able to support 4” of lift and a TT on a TJ Rubicon with the stock transfer case output and mass vibration damper. But it seems that wasn’t an issue per our emails. Thus I went with the 1350 shaft.
Note the 1350 applies only to the CV; the other end is still a 1330.
That has practically zero to do with what a TJ needs.
EzPeezy
TJ Enthusiast
I thought the physical size of the joints was the limiting factor. Slightly bigger means less angle allowed?
Those are highly specialized and probably not ideal for most Jeepers.
The point that larger doesn't always restrict angle more than smaller is still valid. My HAD 1310 CV operating angle limit at droop is somewhat high.
However, not as high as their beefier HA models. HAD makes a TJ specific 1350 high angle driveshaft, and they can build just about any combo for a Jeep.
However, not as high as their beefier HA models. HAD makes a TJ specific 1350 high angle driveshaft, and they can build just about any combo for a Jeep.
The bottom line is that TJs like are typically built for offroading simply don't need the strength of a 1350 u-joint. The day I break any of my six 1330 u-joints I'll reconsider my position.
If we're saying what's possible without outlining the reasons for doing something. I'm also going to point out that 37s fit on a LJ just fine and allow more travel than a 35:
What's also good to know is that like Jerry said, a 1310 is enough and that's what I'm running with 37s and boosted engine.
@pcoplin , approximately how much HP/Torque are you putting through the 1310s? I've seen the way you drive and if 1310s are holding up to that I think it's more than enough testament to them holding up.
Yep, though totally unneeded. But if you insist on running 1350 u-joints on your Jeep go for it.
The other question to ask is what do you want to fail? A $300 driveshaft or much more than $300 tcase or differential? With a yield torque of 2260 lbs-ft for a 1350 that exceeds the input spline strength of a TJ 44 and pushes the upper limit of the Explorer 8.8.
Probably no more than 350 hp. It's a GM 6.0, so maybe 350 torque? I have 1350s at the axles, 1310s at the t-case. But also have smaller tires than some others, I know Blaine has blown up some 1310 H-yokes with sticky 40s (I think).
My buddy has blown a couple 1310s up with 42s, but he was on leafs and hopped a lot.
It happens, but a TJ with a Magnum it'll do just fine. I ran a 5.9 Magnum for about 10 years on 35s with no driveline u-joint failures.
Brianj5600
TJ Expert
Looking at first gear and 4 low ratios, wouldn't a stock 4.0 be able to put out over 2260 lbs-ft? My 1st gear in a 42rle and 241 t-case and factory rated 235 lbs-ft is 2603 lbs-ft without tq multiplication of the convertor. The manual transmissions have even deeper 1st gears. 22600 lbs-ft?
OP
So would you recommend copying what you did with the 1350's at the pinion and 1310's on the other end? Or just 1310's all the way through?
And still looking for a little more feedback on the flange vs yoke swap. Not that @Blackjack didn't have a good point, just wanting to know if there's another side to the coin.
Nope 2260. http://www.certifiedpower.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Joint-Series-Torque-Ratings.pdf
Stay with 1310. While ujoint angles at the pinion are less of an issue running a double cardan you are just adding extra expense and making the weak link the double cardan which is the more expensive part of the driveshaft.
Go with a flange. Easy 4 bolts to get at and replace. Blow a joint and you can fix and go home. Blow a yoke and now you have a possibility of needing a spare of that too. Pretty much all heavy industry uses flanges. Make the bolts the weak link and when you blow the driveshaft all you really did is sheer a few bolts. Easy trail fix and minimal damage. Nice when the ds dosent try to take out everything else.