1310 vs 1330 vs 1350 u-joints

[TreverStevens]

I had somewhat settled on the 1310's throughout but called into both Adam's Drive Shafts and Tom Wood's to make sure this is on-par with what they recommended since I'll be going with one of them to build my DS. The guy at Tom Wood's said 1350's for all the joints, which I was surprised to hear since so many here said the 50's could cause problems. I even brought up the fact that some had said it could cause binding at droop and he assured me it wouldn't. He also said not to buy a flange adapter because whatever they use to balance the DS will have to go onto the vehicle. So whatever I bought in advance would be wasted. Then I called Adam's and the guy said 1310's for all the joints would be the best option and it wouldn't have an issue holding up to the power I'm putting out, even with the extra stress of the 4:1 TC. So I'm kind of puzzled now.

 

[toximus]

I had somewhat settled on the 1310's throughout but called into both Adam's Drive Shafts and Tom Wood's to make sure this is on-par with what they recommended since I'll be going with one of them to build my DS. The guy at Tom Wood's said 1350's for all the joints, which I was surprised to hear since so many here said the 50's could cause problems. I even brought up the fact that some had said it could cause binding at droop and he assured me it wouldn't. He also said not to buy a flange adapter because whatever they use to balance the DS will have to go onto the vehicle. So whatever I bought in advance would be wasted. Then I called Adam's and the guy said 1310's for all the joints would be the best option and it wouldn't have an issue holding up to the power I'm putting out, even with the extra stress of the 4:1 TC. So I'm kind of puzzled now.

If you don't have much lift (such as stock suspension) you might be just fine with 1350 and not reach travel limitations. But if you have more lift or want more lift 1310 is going to be your cheapest way of getting the travel needed while still providing the strength you need. Or you can pay for Jess to build you a $800 1350 shaft with clearanced flanges so you can sleep better at night knowing that you have the the strongest driveshaft.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

There's a great new article on selecting the right u-joint size I recently read on Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts page on Facebook.

It makes great reading, especially for those who believe they have a unique situation (when they don't really) where they think they need 1350 u-joints.

https://www.offroadxtreme.com/engin...ch-u-joints-and-when-to-look-at-going-bigger/

 

[Jeep 541X]

There's a great new article on selecting the right u-joint size I recently read on Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts page on Facebook.

It makes great reading, especially for those who believe they have a unique situation (when they don't really) where they think they need 1350 u-joints.

https://www.offroadxtreme.com/engin...ch-u-joints-and-when-to-look-at-going-bigger/

Great article, @Jerry Bransford. 1310s will suffice here.