15x7 wheels for DIY beadlocks?

tykesplace

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I’m wanting to build some weld on bead lock wheels. I’m wondering what wheel width would be appropriate. I found some 15 x 7 steelies from an Explorer for a good price.

I know that the bead lock rings will add 1” to 1 1/2” to the width. I am on 33s now but want to go to 35s.

Would 33/12.50-25 or 35/12.50-15 work on that wheel width?

It seems like it would keep a pretty tight inner bead. But I don’t want to go so narrow that I’m bulging the tire too much.
 
Not sure what you mean "make the cut". I'm planning on the ring that sit inside the lip. Like this.

172759585.jpg

172759575.jpg
 
I dunno how that makes those wheels beadlocks and how it adds 1-1.5" of width to the wheel. I'm missing the key part of this puzzle. Edit: Oh wait that's just showing the seating surface. But where are the threads for the bolts?
 
Right. The inner ring is the seating surface. Then bolts go through both rings and use locking nuts on the inner side of the inner ring.

My concern right now is if there will be enough room for the nuts between the ring and the wheel. I won't know until I see the wheels in person.
 
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Right. The inner ring is the seating surface. Then bolts go through both rings and use locking nuts on the inner side of the inner ring.

My concern right now is if there will be enough room for the nuts between the ring and the wheel. I won't know until I see the wheels in person.
You can always get a larger ring if you need more room - bolts moved slightly toward the center.
 
i'm about to start a set as well, i bought from AtoZ fab, nothing fancy just plain ol rings. they'll be heavy enough without extra steel for logo's or cutouts.
i went with 1/4" material, and plan to weld all my nuts on as well.

the 1 thing that i find odd is the mounting, some drop um in and weld them sunken down below the rim edge. others weld them flat or level with the rim edge. and some others even pull them up just a bit and they sit just barely higher than the rims edge.

now i read, to set it low and leave the rim (1/16-3/32") lip so it'll press into the tire and help the seal.
and i also read to grind off whats left sticking up, so it has a nice flat area to seal against.

is 1 way wrong and the other correct? or are they both usable options?
 
I've read the same things about how "deep" to set the inner ring. Below the bead lip, flush with it, or slightly proud.

I think that setting it below the lip so that the lip will press into the tire isn't how it would work. The clamping between is between the rings. Not over the lip of the tire. I think the seal is achieve through getting as much tire material clamped between the surfaces of the inner and outer rings. Setting the inner ring too deep might make it so the wheel's lip keeps some of the tire from touching the flat surface of the inner ring.

My plan is to shim the inner ring so it sits flush with the lip. Then weld that gap. Then end result would be a slightly concave weld that doesn't need any grinding. Like in the 2nd image I shared. That really comes down to the welding skills.

172759575-jpg.120639
 
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i run robotic welders at work i'm gonna program and run mine on 1 of them. so my weld should be a beautiful thing.
i'm also not confident in any protrusion of the rims edge and believe a nice flat would give a better seal.
pulling them up seems like it leaves the edge of the ring to be welded to the lip of the rim, not the strongest connection, i think we could have.
so i'm also leaning toward a flush fit. but this is not something easily undone or changed once it's burned so i had to ask.