You are not. I clicked quick thinking of that lowered willys with stretched 30x9x20’s on 20x10 8” offset wheels. Smoke pouring out of all four wheel wells, single hoop roll bar and an open face American flag helmet. Driver wearing classic KD shades and a smile from ear to ear!Guess I'm the only one that clicked the title expecting to see some TJ drifting on 35s or something...I'm a little bummed.
Looks like you've got the answers you need and I have nothing more to contribute. Hope you get it figured out soon buddy!
Man that’s awesome! Good on you for helping out a stranger. While I’m still fairly new to jeeps, it is refreshing to see the community and how they treat each other.Goose , I’m in Huntsville basically, if you are close lets meet somewhere tomorrow or Saturday a.m. and see what is going on under there. Text me 256-990-4394.
The TJ was designed to do what Jeeps had never done- drive well.Man that’s awesome! Good on you for helping out a stranger. While I’m still fairly new to jeeps, it is refreshing to see the community and how they treat each other.
My other “toy” is a ‘95 mustang. I love that car, but it’s so cheap it leads to some real asshats picking them up. The sn95 forums can be a pretty toxic place.
And I was totally expecting a TJ sliding around the streets!
One of the best, simple, and to the point explanations I've ever seen!The TJ was designed to do what Jeeps had never done- drive well.
I can bring mine to give you a baseline, @Hog , @John Cooper , @SamwiseGamJeep @Claybirdd have all driven it after it was resurrected. It could not be driven safely over 50 when I got it. This forum changed that.
Here is the deal- you have 2 straight axles, 4 big coil springs suspend the frame and body, shocks dampen that. Sway bars control roll front and rear. Sway bar links connect them to the frame.
You have 8 control arms...these control the movement of the axle the springs allow. They have bushings on each end. These factor in as well.
Track bars(panhard bars) control the axle left to right movement, and essentially keep them centered while every thing else does its’ job.
You have the pitman arm, the drag link, the tie rod and its’ ends then a stabilizer to dampen that ...plus you have front unit bearings that need to be good and 4 ball joints .
Basically, there is a lot going on under these, and you have 44 bushings counting the shock bushings that interface most of this to the chassis.
It doesn’t mean you have to drop a ton of cash...i’ve seen a 29.00 end and a tape measure do magic...but you have to start with sizing it all up and a steering dry test, diagnose then go from there.
Being a Mustang guy you will be familiar with a lot of the components.
We aren’t the average forum, we are all mostly lifetime Jeep and car lovers, and we know when something comes along that is good, you need to work to keep it good and help the other guy as well, so it comes back around.
We are also very model specific, so we know what works on these and what doesn’t. We aren’t guessing much.
All the best,
Thanks, I used to look under mine and stare like a dog looking at a ceiling fan...this forum has the best TJ knowledge available, it really pays to be on here if you own one...whether you wrench or hire it done....here you get solid information from experienced members that enable you to understand the equipment. It has been a real asset to me as an owner, plus I have met some really good people.One of the best, simple, and to the point explanations I've ever seen!
we can even help those that dont know which end of the bolt to put the nut on ! might take a few beers and some time but we try to get them through it !Thanks, I used to look under mine and stare like a dog looking at a ceiling fan...this forum has the best TJ knowledge available, it really pays to be on here if you own one...whether you wrench or hire it done....here you get solid information from experienced members that enable you to understand the equipment. It has been a real asset to me as an owner, plus I have met some really good people.
I’ve gotten where I don’t even guess much....there is almost a 100 percent chance on every one I see something is loose, worn, bent, missing, or set up wrong ....and with all the chutes and ladders under these it can be half a dozen things at once....a worn control arm bracket, dropped pitman, improper toe, etc.i think until we know if he recently did something to it ( added a lift or whatever ) we are just throwing darts. goose , did this just start on it's own or did it start after a modification ? it's alot easier for ALL of us if we know we are looking for a worn part or trying to fix something that was self induced by adding something....
Or track width due to wheel offset if there is any grooves in the road…Yes you should be running the stock Pitman arm, based on the fact that the driver's side track bar mount is not dropped either. Those two items need to match... both dropped or both not dropped.
Drifting is not usually caused by the wrong Pitman arm though, it's more commonly caused by any of the following or a mix of them. Unevenly inflated tires, overinflated tires, improper toe-in, or insufficient caster angle
I'd start by checking the tire inflation and the front-end alignment. Guessing your tires are 33's, 26 to 28 psi is appropriate... 26 psi when the TJ is lightly loaded, 28 when it's fully loaded with passengers and/or gear.