1997 Wrangler - 'Gator'

Stefan

Stefan

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2016
Messages
29
Hey all, new to the forum and a (semi) longtime TJ owner. I bought this '97 TJ six years ago and I'm now beginning the process of creating the wrangler I'be always wanted.

I've got a lot of rust removal to undertake but I'm excited for the project.

Below are a few 'before' photos, along with a picture of 35x12.5 tires I recently acquired as motivation.

Any input on the best way get these wheels/tires to fit is appreciated. I'm finding there's a number of ways to do it and I want to do it properly.

Looking forward to learning from you all!


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Are those 35" tires? For some reason they look more like 33".

Either way, you definitely need a lift. I would say 4" of suspension lift, and 1" of body lift would be perfect to clear 35" tires.
 
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Chris said:
Are those 35" tires? For some reason they look more like 33".

Either way, you definitely need a lift. I would say 4" of suspension lift, and 1" of body lift would be perfect to clear 35" tires.
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Looks like the uppermost pictures are 33", the lower 35"... that fender is looking pretty close to the top of the tire!
 
Ahhh, now I see it. Yep, the later pictures are 35". It looks dangerously close to the fender. Like one tiny speed bump and you'd rip your fender off.

You my friend REALLY need a lift.
 
Chris said:
Ahhh, now I see it. Yep, the later pictures are 35". It looks dangerously close to the fender. Like one tiny speed bump and you'd rip your fender off.

You my friend REALLY need a lift.
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A lift, indeed! I mounted the 35s out of pure curiosity. Didn't even leave the driveway :)

I've got one question that I'm hoping you fine folks can help me with. In installing a 4" SL & 1" BL, what supplementary drivetrain/suspension pieces should not or cannot be skipped. I've read a lot of forums and opinions, and what I'm curious to know is what is mandatory, what is extremely recommended, and what is helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help! I'm looking forward to getting this project moving.
 
Stefan said:
A lift, indeed! I mounted the 35s out of pure curiosity. Didn't even leave the driveway :)

I've got one question that I'm hoping you fine folks can help me with. In installing a 4" SL & 1" BL, what supplementary drivetrain/suspension pieces should not or cannot be skipped. I've read a lot of forums and opinions, and what I'm curious to know is what is mandatory, what is extremely recommended, and what is helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help! I'm looking forward to getting this project moving.
Click to expand...

If you're doing 4" SL and 1" BL you absolutely, positively need adjustable control arms, no way around that. You also will need a CV style driveshaft (I suggest Tom Wood Driveshafts for this, their turn around time is amazing, and customer service is awesome) and a SYE (slip yoke eliminator). Adjustable track bars will also be a must as well.

No real way around any of that stuff. 4" and more of lift is getting into big boys territory. I run 4" SL and 1" BL and love it. You'll fit 35" tires just fine with that amount of lift, and it will look perfect too.

Don't forget these as well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FXWZT8/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I forgot those when I installed my lift and totally realized within a few days why I needed them, LOL!
 
fljeeper said:
Put the Metalcloak fenders on and you will be able to run 35's.
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That might work in Florida's essentially flat terrain where you live but I agree with the above advice that a 4" suspension lift plus 1" body lift is the ideal way to go for 35" tires. Most terrain that is difficult enough to require 35" tires is also uneven enough that you need the additional ground clearance that a suspension lift provides.
 
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Hey y'all... I am in search of a frame. The rust near the rear control arms is beyond the point of repair. Rather than bracing this location, i'd prefer to set the body on a new frame.

If any of you know of one for sale, please, let me know! I am open to cleaning up surface rust and minor welding/bracing. If it's a like-new frame, all the better.

I'm located in a Minnesota and open to driving around 500 miles for pick up. I figure that will get me most of the way through WI, IA, SD and ND.

Thanks in advance!
 
Stefan said:
Hey y'all... I am in search of a frame. The rust near the rear control arms is beyond the point of repair. Rather than bracing this location, i'd prefer to set the body on a new frame.

If any of you know of one for sale, please, let me know! I am open to cleaning up surface rust and minor welding/bracing. If it's a like-new frame, all the better.

I'm located in a Minnesota and open to driving around 500 miles for pick up. I figure that will get me most of the way through WI, IA, SD and ND.

Thanks in advance!
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Check out http://car-part.com

Search within a certain radius of your zip code for a frame. It will pop up with any frame in your area. That site searches all auto wrecking yards throughout the entire US. Bookmark it, because I use that site all the time and it's never let me down. It's how I found my hard top!
 
Chris said:
Check out http://car-part.com

Search within a certain radius of your zip code for a frame. It will pop up with any frame in your area. That site searches all auto wrecking yards throughout the entire US. Bookmark it, because I use that site all the time and it's never let me down. It's how I found my hard top!
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Thanks for this. I've been requesting quotes/pictures/info from this site all day. May have a lead on a rear frame in Iowa. I'd prefer to not merge two frames, but may have to get crafty.
 
Stefan said:
Thanks for this. I've been requesting quotes/pictures/info from this site all day. May have a lead on a rear frame in Iowa. I'd prefer to not merge two frames, but may have to get crafty.
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No problem. That site is probably one of the coolest around. It's basically a national database of every wrecking yard in the US. I've found so many things on there from axles to hard tops!

Hopefully you find something you can use!
 
Chris said:
No problem. That site is probably one of the coolest around. It's basically a national database of every wrecking yard in the US. I've found so many things on there from axles to hard tops!

Hopefully you find something you can use!
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I'm pretty blown away! Have a few other things (soft top cloth, windshield hinges, rear quarter panels, etc) that I'm asking after. :D

Man, I love jeeps.
 
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You and me both!

And yep, that site is good for just about anything you can think of. My friend showed it to me several years ago and I bookmarked it. Talk about useful!
 
Chris said:
You and me both!

And yep, that site is good for just about anything you can think of. My friend showed it to me several years ago and I bookmarked it. Talk about useful!
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Ever ship anything vehicle-frame sized across country? Something tells me the price will exceed the actual purchase price of the frame...
 
Stefan said:
Ever ship anything vehicle-frame sized across country? Something tells me the price will exceed the actual purchase price of the frame...
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No, but I've shipped cars and motorcycles a plenty across country.

Your best bet is to go on http://uship.com once you find the frame you want. Post a shipping ad with dimensions, size and description of what they're transporting. Shippers will bid on your listing and you can choose the shipper (and price) you want to ship it.

It's hard to say what you'd spend to have it shipped. The closer the frame is to you, the cheaper it will be. To transport it across country, I'm guessing you'd spend minimum $800. The good thing is that it doesn't need to be protected like an actual car, so it may be cheaper to ship than you think.
 
Chris said:
No, but I've shipped cars and motorcycles a plenty across country.

Your best bet is to go on http://uship.com once you find the frame you want. Post a shipping ad with dimensions, size and description of what they're transporting. Shippers will bid on your listing and you can choose the shipper (and price) you want to ship it.

It's hard to say what you'd spend to have it shipped. The closer the frame is to you, the cheaper it will be. To transport it across country, I'm guessing you'd spend minimum $800. The good thing is that it doesn't need to be protected like an actual car, so it may be cheaper to ship than you think.
Click to expand...

You're a wealth of information. I may have a frame identified. Thanks very much for your help!
 
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