My wrangler is running very poorly. I probably need to check my spark plugs again to make sure they’re not fouled but it’s getting worse. I used to be able to drive on the highway at 70 just fine. And gradually it’s dropping in distance how far I can go without it sputtering and losing all power like it’s running out of gas or getting too much, I put new 02 sensors in, tried map sensor, TPS, new exhaust manifold, new CPS etc. idk where to look anymore. I really would hate to but should I just bring it to a mechanic at this point?
1998 Jeep Wrangler TJ is running very poorly
- Thread starter Burch98
- Start date
Be sure the plugs are gapped perfectly and not damaged in the process , new plug wires are a good move , be sure the air filter is clean and clean the throw body is where I would start.
I'd find a good shop to take it to at this point...had you done it earlier, it likely would have cost you considerably less than you've just spent on that laundry list of parts.
Diagnose the problem, fix the problem....leave all the other stuff alone
I’ll check them but I put them in like a week ago. New wires, cap, rotor, pick up coil and all that. I’m at the point where I believe maybe my distributor as a whole is bad or I have a short or somethin somewhere. Or even might have to check my compression at this point. Idk anymore
It was the plan to diagnose and replace. My distributor cap was junk, changed it. My fuel pump was going out, replaced it. CPS was worn, wires were getting brittle. Replaced it. O2 sensor was Bosch, replaced it with NTK. What I replaced was needed anyways. It was in poor condition when I bought it but ran good for a couple months before it started doing all this.
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also, my exhaust manifold was cracked around just about every outlet there was. I initially only found 2 cracks but when I took it off it was cracked everywhere. I’m asking for opinions on what it could be, not how to spend my money. I’m not worried about that part.
It could be anything...without an understanding of what's missing (compression, fuel, spark, valve events, etc...)...one cannot form a diagnostic plan to figure out how to fix it. Do you have a check engine light?
Does the engine run better when cold? What brand of O2 sensor did you install? Bosch? NTK? NGK?
Without any diagnostic tools...Get on the highway and let 'er rip...when it starts to sputter, put the pedal to the floor and let it do it's thing...keep the pedal down until it dies, then pull over. Bring a spark plug wrench with you and pull a couple plugs...what do they look like? Nice and clean like new means you're outta gas. Wet and drippy means too much gas/no spark.
If a fuel injected engine fouls plugs in a week...we've got bigger problems.
If a fuel injected engine fouls plugs in a week...we've got bigger problems.
I don't know the mileage but being that old you are exactly right it could be the distributor has wear.
Replace the distributor and rotor with a Mopar. How many miles on the motor?
If over 100k I would consider replacing the distributor switchplate as well.
Edit: distributor cap and rotor, sorry i got in a hurry there..
If over 100k I would consider replacing the distributor switchplate as well.
Edit: distributor cap and rotor, sorry i got in a hurry there..
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Listen to this guy , he gets the Common Sense Award we hand out each June year after year at TJ Wranglerama.
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I think the switch plate and pick up coil is the same unless I mixed them up haha. I also noticed something while reviewing my data stream and before it basically went into limp mode my fuel system 1 status went from closed loop to open loop drive. (OL-drive) what is that?
Yes sir. I’ve started recording the day at while driving to catch what’s happening. I got a new set of OEM remanufactured injectors that should be here Saturday. It’s possible I have a leaky injector, that’s the only thing I can think of anymore. If these don’t work it’s going home and I’m getting something different until I figure it out
Update: New remanufactured OEM injectors came in. So far, sounds a lot better. Actually sounds like all cylinders are firing right but the computer may need to adjust more now that they are all operating correctly. Starts right up without hesitation now, doesn’t have to crank for awhile. I’ll see how long this lasts.
O2 sensors are NTK and the others were just standard at oreillys. No check engine light at all.