Sorry for the late reply. I basically cut the shifter in half, welded a 3" piece of metal extension connecting the 2 pieces. Worked perfectly. The only part of the shifter that I Used was the part that goes into the transmission. After that, I used my own rod so I would thread it for a beer tap handle.
My ZJ was a 98. Which really doesn't mean much at all. I used a PCM out of a 2000 model, blended wiring harness from my 2000 TJ/98 ZJ, used various other parts that made things fit like OEM. I think I listed most of the parts I used though.
I would love to get a set for mine but 5.9L in blackI like the "5.2 L" Decals!!! Nice subtle touch!!!!
I had one made at a local shop that does t-shirts, vinyl auto decals, mugs, etc... Here's a look... even matched my vinyl color. I had it made a little bigger more like the JEEP lettering versus the "Wrangler" size, but that was my choice. I like the small subtle mods... Cost about $20 installed.
Like the guy above, it only took a few months. Before I started ANYTHING though, I did countless hours of research. Took lots of notes. That's where the "hard work" paid off. I looked at every build thread, the entire magnum swap thread, made notes of other peoples mistakes, and ignored a lot of the "expert advice" I got. Some things were trial and error, like finding the correct radiator hoses, etc. I also didn't just grab an engine, and toss it in like I have seen some people do. I did a bunch of preventative maintenance. I also wanted it to look like this engine came in my Jeep from the factory, so I used various parts from 90s era Chrysler vehicles, like the air hat, etc to make it look factory. Once you can get the wiring harness done and get the mounts burned onto the frame, the rest is easy! And yeah I am not far from Springfield at all! I am actually from Enon, which is right next door.
If you want a set, I can ask the girl to make a set for you in black. She's a graphic designer, and literally made it look like a factory decal. She took a 4.0L decal, somehow put it into her computer and was able to make a 5.2L design from the same font. Exact same size as the factory 4.0L font and all!
Honestly, it looks like you need to do a lot of basic TJ research before you tackle this. A 2.5 transfer case, as it is a NP231, it’s a 21 spline and will not work with an AX-15. You need a 4.0 transfer case from a XJ or TJ that will be 23 spline to work with the ax-15. You need a manual pcm with a manual. The harness can be either because the transmission side of things isn’t going to matter when it comes to the engine harness. And I’m sure you could ghetto rig your current skid but a Barnes skid with adjustable slots is only $200. Lastly, I wouldn’t beat the firewall. I would set the mounts exactly where they go, which moves the trans slightly. Get custom shafts, since the stock ones are junk anyway in my opinion. It’s all easy, just gotta be creative and save a little money. Just don’t go the beating the firewall route, it’s ghetto, looks like shit, etc.
Yes. People seem to think that the Dana 35 is made of glass, but even with those old axle shafts, I never had a failure...and that is with beating the hell out of it. Now do I think that it is a super strong axle? No. But it held up to the abuse I threw at it. And, it was already geared to 4.10 so I figured why change.
Going back to this. AA recommends 1" body lift, wondering if you had to do that at all
I think part of that depends on what size tires you're running and what you do with your rig. I've seen a Dana 35 break with a 4.0 and 31" tires so I'd not trust it for too long behind a V-8.
I have been re-reading the post as a great source of information. The 1" BL should be good if the airingal keg intake is being used is what I have gathered. Since I plan o running a different intake (lower) and shorty T headers I think I will be ok. Can't be sure until the time comes. I have been gathering parts and such waiting for the swap.