2000 rust bucket build

ZMTJ

Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2019
Messages
40
Location
New Smyrna Beach,FL
Well its finaly started, after the slight hiccup with the original plan to fix the frame I decided taking the body off and completely going through everything was going to be the only way I would be happy with this Tj. So I'll try my best to update this thread as it slowly comes along.

To start out as some may know, I got my 00' Tj for a deal, real cheap, especially for my area. The only catch was it was from NJ and of course, had frame rot. But the engine and transmission were in great shape and I'm not to scared off by a little work.

The plan for this build:
Body off resto, not show quality, but everything attached to the frame is going to be new.
Small lift 3-3.5" trying to keep it LCG, depending on what money will allow.
Axle swap: not 1 tons. 8.8 swap rear with a HP dana 30 swap front, of course all the goodies that go with(locker,gears,cromoly)
Tummy tuck/body lift
SYE

The body is in great shape and I've already got most of the interior how I want it.

The direction of this build: this is going to be very moderate considering what I've done in the past. I want to drive my Tj and enjoy it beachside, with the few trips to Ocala or hardrock in between. Being in Florida unfortunately we don't have to many good trails to go down like you guys out west have.

Looking forward to learning and hopefully getting to know everyone on the forum a little more.

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Wow, already got the body off? That must have been a lot of work, huh?
 
Wow, already got the body off? That must have been a lot of work, huh?

It really wasn't too terrible. I started about 10 and finished up about 16:00. It would of definitely been easier with a lift, but a few floor Jack's and some heavy straps worked fine. No damage and no body teaking so I'd say it was successful lol
 
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It really wasn't too terrible. I started about 10 and finished up about 16:00. It would of definitely been easier with a lift, but a few floor Jack's and some heavy straps worked fine. No damage and no body teaking so I'd say it was successful lol

That's not nearly as bad as I thought it would be.
 
It’s amazing how easy the tubs are to take off on these... I had a 4.0 sport that had a bad frame a few years ago and took the tub off in an afternoon with a few buddies.
 
Spent some time yesterday pressure washing 20 years of dirt and grease off of the frame and drivetrain. Unfortunately I found more rot on the rear spring buckets. So I'll have to cut those off and weld on new one's, I'm going to relocate the new ones to adjust for the spring bend. Other than that everything else looks to be in pretty ok shape. Brake and fuel lines look good, the only line that will need replacing is a rotted evap line. Hopefully in the next couple days I'll be able to start grinding and cutting!

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Looks like the right frame rail has been repaired. Do you know the history on the Repair? I’ll be watching this, lots to learn from this. Thanks for sharing.
 
Looks like the right frame rail has been repaired. Do you know the history on the Repair? I’ll be watching this, lots to learn from this. Thanks for sharing.

Yep, that was my attempt to repair without removing the body. Didn't work out too well, I don't recommend that. Between the splatter burn and the terrible angles I'm surprised I was able to get that much weld to actually penetrate. I learned my lesson the hard way
 
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I just had both rails worked at a shop. Always looking for experiences to learn from. My welding skills are between seagull poop and black hole. Know my limitations.
 
I apologize to everyone following this thread for the slow replies. Life has me pretty busy right now and the Florida heat only allows for a couple hours of work at a time.

In the last couple days I have been able to cut out the rust bottom half of the center section of frame and clear out all the scaling on the inside. I tried to leave as much good frame metal as I could to weld too, luckily the rot didn't move to far up. Today I was able to prep the center section and mock up the repair piece. Anyone thinking about fixing this on their own remember, welding is 90% prep, so take your time on it and make sure you have everything as close to perfect as you can. Also, buy a bunch of clamps, those help too keep the new section close to the old one.

That's all for today, in the coming week I'll be cutting off and prepping the front and rear control arm sections and welding everything into place. Then it's on to repairing the rear spring buckets.

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I apologize to everyone following this thread for the slow replies. Life has me pretty busy right now and the Florida heat only allows for a couple hours of work at a time.

In the last couple days I have been able to cut out the rust bottom half of the center section of frame and clear out all the scaling on the inside. I tried to leave as much good frame metal as I could to weld too, luckily the rot didn't move to far up. Today I was able to prep the center section and mock up the repair piece. Anyone thinking about fixing this on their own remember, welding is 90% prep, so take your time on it and make sure you have everything as close to perfect as you can. Also, buy a bunch of clamps, those help too keep the new section close to the old one.

That's all for today, in the coming week I'll be cutting off and prepping the front and rear control arm sections and welding everything into place. Then it's on to repairing the rear spring buckets.

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Good evening all,
Tonight I came across something while scrolling through good ol Amazon. JK 3" lift springs all 4 corners for $80. In doing a little research it seems that's the front will fit with minor modifications to the rear, and according to information on this sight as well as others the fronts should provide me with 3-3.5" with the rear varying from way too much lift to just enough. Spring rate is going to be the one that I'm sure about, hopefully doesn't provide a brick like ride. But hey, it's an experiment and if it works then its saved a bit of money. If not, then I tried. I also have lower extended control arms on the way.

The rear spring buckets came today so hopefully I'll be able to get the drivers side done on Wednesday. More pictures to come.
 
Today I was able to get the front and rear sections cut out and tac welded the new sections in. Now I just need to fit the center section and repair the spring buckets.

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Today I was able to get the driver side finished. The pocono metalcraft repair sections needed a few minor adjustments in order too fit properly. But it's all in and no more rust holes!

All that's left is the passenger rear control arm mounts and rear spring perches. All the parts for the 3" lift is ordered and should be in by next week.

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Today I was able to get a lot done. Finished up all the work on the frame rot, primed and painted. Removed the rear shocks in preparation for spring bucket repair tomorrow, That ontop of removal of the gas tank/skid plate is on tap for tomorrow. It's coming along quick now that I have the time too do some work.

Oh and a few of the lift parts came with more coming tomorrow.

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Looking great. Nice welds, and it should hold up for the life of the vehicle. Did you drill any drain holes by chance? I notice they don't put them in.
 
Looking great. Nice welds, and it should hold up for the life of the vehicle. Did you drill any drain holes by chance? I notice they don't put them in.

Thank you very much, I really hope so.

And not yet on the drain holes, but that is on the to do list after I get everything else finished. Drain holes and interior frame coating.
 
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Today I finished up all the suspension work. New upper and lower control arms, adjustable track bar, springs and shocks. It's now lifted aprox 3-4" I'll just need to make final adjustments when the body gets back on.

Next week I'll be repairing the fuel vapor line, transmission shift linkage seal and valve cover gasket.

I'll upload pics Sunday when I'm off work and the rain has stopped!