2000 TJ Build

CovertRat

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2019
Messages
74
Location
Tennessee
So I’ve spent the last month making some final decisions for my Jeep (Recovering from knee surgery makes for a lot of time for thinking). I have had everything in since last week and finally got around to starting on it today. I am still in recovery from knee surgery, so this ain’t gonna go fast. I didn’t think to take any before pictures, or any other pictures from today’s work unfortunately. If anyone has a request for pics of today’s work, I will be happy to do so when I get back to it. I would also like to say that I have never had/used air tools before now. Since I also have some sort of tear in my shoulder (discovered during MRI, explains the other pains I’m having), as part of my project I decided to upgrade my air compressor and purchase an air ratchet and an impact wrench. I must say I wish I had done this years ago.

If this isn’t enough information, feel free to ask for more details. I have a 2000 TJ Sport with 6cyl and 5 speed manual, soft top. My intentions are to use the factory Canyon rims with 33x10 tires. Regear will be in the future. I was going to do a full piece together, but decided to mix and match a little with a “kit”. This is what I got in.

DPG OME Ultimate Kit with Light Coils (Front 2932/Rear 2941) minus the BL and MML
Savvy control arms
Savvy 1.25” BL
MORE Bombproof MML
OME Spring spacers front and rear
Replacement Factory style spring isolators front and rear
Crown body mounts
New transmission mount
New jounce bumpers
Currie Johnny joints for front upper control arm bushings

I just got finished with the Body mounts, BL, and MML. Took her out for a ride and noticed my shifter is having problems. I found that the problem is the shift boot bunches up. I’m going to try a zip tie to pull the rubber boot up higher on the stick to prevent the bind. I also will be loosening the clamps and pulling the gas fill neck up so I can screw it back in from removing for the BL. That’s all I can think of right now and will read this in the morning to make sure I didn’t leave anything out.
 
Started on the rear side today. Got everything broken down, cleaned stuff up and started prepping for install. Pulled my control arms out and had my first hang up for the day. One of the zerk fittings was broken on the lower arms. Don’t know if it was shipping or me and don’t have an easy out on hand. Decided to call it quits for the day and get some things together. Need an easy out, replacement zerk, some more anti seize, and some medium threadlocker.

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This is the rear track bar before removal
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Moved this brakeline, figured it didn’t belong at this location
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Is this the correct location for OME spacer?
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Broken zerk
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Since last check in I have had a couple of things come up. I discovered my backing plate for the passenger side drum brakes was bent. The axle seems straight and the mounting location doesn’t seem bent, so I ordered disc conversion from Black Magic Brakes. Customer service from Mr. Blaine was great.
I also ordered new Motive axles and seal/bearing kit. While pulling things apart, I noticed a pitting on my spider gears and they “seemed “ to have some slop/looseness. After I posted a question on that I went back to work and couldn’t produce the same looseness I saw before. So now I question myself on whether it has slop but they definitely have pitting. The rest of the gear works looked fine.
Rented a bearing puller from local parts store and had an issue getting the right parts. It sucks when the guy behind the counter knows less than I do on what I needed. He gave me a slide hammer and some small puller that didn’t even contact the bearing. Disgusted, I looked things up and found the tool I needed, went back to the store and showed the guy at the counter the picture of what I should have rented. He just shrugged his shoulders and I returned the tools. I’ll be purchasing my own to finish the job.
Lastly, per suggestion, I purchased rear wheel studs for a 2005 wrangler Rubicon. They are slightly longer, but not what I was hoping for. I pressed them in yesterday. I then pre installed the disc brake and axle on one of the tires to make sure all was good. Nine complete turns is all I got. I haven’t torqued them down, just wrench tight because it’s all on the ground. I was wondering if the front wheel studs would press in even though they have a larger knurled? Till next time.
 
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Well I got a little more work done today. Between waiting on tools to come in and work, I removed/installed the rear axle bearing on one side and started on the disc brakes. Got called out to work again. Not much done but here are some of the tools I got in. Can’t say this enough, I’m glad I was directed to OTC tools.

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Well, factory rims are gone and I purchased some Trail Master Steel Rims and 33x10.5 BFG AT. Got further into the front end and decided on some more changes that will come sooner rather than later. Black Magic pads, rotors, and calipers to start. Spicer ball joints upper and lower, and spicer joints for the front axle and rear driveshaft. I pulled both axles out of the Jeep. Decided to go ahead and have regear done with Detroit True Tracs front and rear with 4.56 gears. While they are in the shop I went ahead and sent the block of steel from Currie to be welded in at the upper passenger side upper control arm mount. This has been a little at a time over the last couple of weeks. Not many pictures as I get started working and it’s the last thing I think about. I’ll get some pics once things are back together.
 
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The OME spacers typically get installed on the top of the spring. Build is looking good so far!
 
Well I have everything up and running for now. I’ve had the regear done and am very pleased with my gear choice. Detroit trutrac front and rear and 4.56 gears for 33” tires.

Haven’t done a full 500 miles yet and seem to have a slight vibration when under full throttle, mostly when above 35. I’m thinking even with such a small lift that I’m going to go the SYE route. Discussed with the guy who did the regear and he said it is highly unlikely but that there is a possibility of pinion bearing issue. He said if I wanted he would do my oil change and check it at that time. Also there seems to be a bit of rubber sticking out of front pinion seal that he said he would replace if needed. Doesn’t seem to be leaking. Pictures attached


I’m thinking of the JB super short just because. I looked at the charts on the shorts and my gear and tire ratio should only be 2mph off. That’s about where I am with the 39 tooth that I installed. Otherwise I’ll just get a regular SYE because JB is on backorder till next month.

While I’m at it I may just replace the clutch, flywheel, and rear main seal (it doesn’t leak Mitch, just a few drops, is that enough to worry with?)

I’ll try to get pictures of my work up later.

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On a side note, I did replace rear driveshaft joints with spicer. Also, new motor mounts (MML) and transmission mount as well as body lift.
 
Well, a little more done. Just installed a JB Super Short SYE, new heater core, and cleaned Evaporator core. Now I’m waiting on a driveshaft from Adams Driveshaft. I have used Tom Woods and have been satisfied with them, I just wanted to see what Adams had.

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