2000 TJ Electrical Nightmare

MHR

MHR

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Joined
Nov 20, 2017
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33
Location
Montreal, QC, Canada
So I have been working on my jeep project for about a year. I started with a disgusting rusty 2000 TJ that I bought as a little project but soon realized I had to go all in or not at all. So I got a good frame and a tub and started the transplant. I am at the point where I have fixed and painted the tub. Cleaned up and painted the frame new brake and fuel line and have rebuilt most of it.

In the last week I managed to get all of the wiring hooked up and the dash reinstalled. Yesterday I hooked up a battery and turned the key. She started right up. I was excited and life was good.

Then I noticed the electrics are all messed up. I have a no bus error on the dash and the check engine light and airbag light are on. None of the gauges work and the dash does not light up when I pull the headlight switch. Looks like a bunch of other electrical related stuff is messed up. Taillights are working correctly. up front, nothing is working. Headlights and turn signals are all messed up. no headlights, turn signals don't come on except when I turn on the headlight switch and then the right side signal light comes on dimly and the right dash turn indicator comes on. Then if I turn on the turn signal the wrong side light will flash.

I have cleaned and checked the cluster connectors and they seem fine with no change.

Any inspiration? guidance and links to wiring diagrams or DIY's are much appreciated.

thanks

Mark
 
Ouch. Well, with that much going on, it's time to get out the volt-ohm meter, the continuity tester, the factory service manual (available here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ice-manuals-fsm-technical-documentation.4618/ ) a short case of your favorite beverage and start chasing problems. Since you'll be knee deep in wiring, invest in some contact cleaner as well. Methodically go through the wiring and clean as you go. I'd start from the ground side and work backwards.

Good luck! It may take some time.
 
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I agree with StG58, You have been patient so far, and you are close so it is hard I know to stay patient, but keep your wits and grab your volt/ohm meter and testlight and wiring diagram and take your time. I also think looking for loose or missing grounds are a good idea because that is what is common with all of your automotive electronics. Once you think you have all of your grounds in place and tight go through each circuit at at time. for instance find out why the front lights don't work. See what has power and what doesn't.

We would like to see pictures of the project, I love watching the project process. Especially frame ups!
 
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Yep, you'll need that FSM that @StG58 linked to. That has all the factory diagrams, and it's going to be the only real way to get all the wiring correct unfortunately.

With all the work you've put into it (and money), do you ever wish you'd just bought one that was 100% running and in good condition from the start?
 
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Thanks guys I just spent some time with the diagrams and started to figure them out. Was just able to make the headlights work it was the grounds. But still have no dash, fogs, front signals and no bus error. It going to be a while but I'll report back.

Here are some pictures They are not in order

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IMG_6377.JPG
 
Chris said:
Yep, you'll need that FSM that @StG58 linked to. That has all the factory diagrams, and it's going to be the only real way to get all the wiring correct unfortunately.

With all the work you've put into it (and money), do you ever wish you'd just bought one that was 100% running and in good condition from the start?
Click to expand...

Some days yes but truth is not really. I admit In the end I will have put as much $$ into it as it is worth or I could buy it for but I really enjoy the project. Once it's running I'll have fun with it but I'll also be looking for the next project. I sit at a desk all day and my job doesn't really excite my brain so this stuff is therapy.
 
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The pictures are fun. I really want to do a frame up resto. I am pretty jealous, but sadly my career takes way too much time. I barely can keep what I got rolling. Congrats on fixing the headlights. The foglights might be a little trickier as usually they get hacked up from stock. I had to re-wire mine just the other day because the relay wasn't mounted and it was bouncing around and the fogs were a crapshoot if they were going to come on at all. The difficult part is the factory service manual will most likely not match what is really going on there, but on the other hand it is pretty easy to re-wire if you have to.

Nice looking project!! Thanks for the pics.
 
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I think one of the headlight low beams are burnt. Do you guys know if it makes sense that DRL works and high beams work but low beams don't on one of my lights. I tested with a multi meter and it should be working so I'm thinking the headlight is gone
 
SOLVED!!

I spent some time looking through the diagrams and printing out a few specific pages and then grabbed the multimeter.

All of the lighting issues were either bad bulbs and 2 bad wires one a ground and one a hot wire to one of the parking lights.

As for the no bus it was the first pin on the grey connector (top one) in the connector block in the drivers footwell that has 6 or 7 connectors. The plug was clicked in properly but the pins were not well seated in the plug so they were not making clean contact. I took a small flat screwdriver and pushed in the pins from the back of the connectors and the first 3 clicked into place and then voila cluster is working.

I do have a check engine light to deal with and it seems my year the three key clicks don’t display the fault codes. So I’ll have to find someone with a scanner to lend me so I can figure out what the fault it.

Thanks for the motivation and help!!!
 
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MHR said:
SOLVED!!

I spent some time looking through the diagrams and printing out a few specific pages and then grabbed the multimeter.

All of the lighting issues were either bad bulbs and 2 bad wires one a ground and one a hot wire to one of the parking lights.

As for the no bus it was the first pin on the grey connector (top one) in the connector block in the drivers footwell that has 6 or 7 connectors. The plug was clicked in properly but the pins were not well seated in the plug so they were not making clean contact. I took a small flat screwdriver and pushed in the pins from the back of the connectors and the first 3 clicked into place and then voila cluster is working.

I do have a check engine light to deal with and it seems my year the three key clicks don’t display the fault codes. So I’ll have to find someone with a scanner to lend me so I can figure out what the fault it.

Thanks for the motivation and help!!!
Click to expand...


Congrats your hard work paid off. Thanks for the follow up too. That helps people that may have the same issues.

As far as your scanner I have one of these I bought from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Once you buy that, you can pair it bluetooth with your phone, and download a free app called TORQUE. With the free app you can see live data pull codes and even clear codes. You also can have multiple cars set up. It is actually really usable for free. I think there are more perks if you pay for the app, but I have been fine with just the free app. So for a little over $20 you have viable scanner.
 
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I will probably go for one of those sounds like it's a good thing to have. My prior projects were either 90's German stuff that needed a special scan tool that I did invest in or older than that with no electronics. I think one of the scan tools will work on just about anything late 90's and after.

The scanner in the link above and TORQUE are for Android. Anyone have recommendations for something for the iPhone. Amazon has a bunch of different ones no idea which one to choose.

thanks

Mark
 
I use one of these as my OBDII scanner: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYTDKP3/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Been using it for a decade now on every vehicle I've owned since then. It works well, it's got a color screen, it's incredibly easy to use, and it's a must have for the tool box for any vehicle, not just a TJ.

Good job on figuring it out by the way, I hate dealing with wiring.
 
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MHR said:
I will probably go for one of those sounds like it's a good thing to have. My prior projects were either 90's German stuff that needed a special scan tool that I did invest in or older than that with no electronics. I think one of the scan tools will work on just about anything late 90's and after.

The scanner in the link above and TORQUE are for Android. Anyone have recommendations for something for the iPhone. Amazon has a bunch of different ones no idea which one to choose.

thanks

Mark
Click to expand...

So i am actually switching to an iphone soon so i can update you on that app. I am willing to bet that that app works on the iphone too but i will doublecheck sometime this weeken as i have an iphone that i am borrowing from my work to ay with. In my case if it doesnt work i have a android tab i can use.

The scanner works on my 98 tj my 2003 Ram 4x4 ickup and my girls 2011 mini roadster just to let you know. It also keeps the profile for all three vehicles.
 
Great, let me know when you try it. I was looking at these as well: Autool Launch X431 Creader VI. I kinda like the idea of it being self-contained.
 
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/p/car-scanner-pro/9nblggh5rv45
They also have a free version you can test with.
This is an excellent choice for software, anything the computer can see, this will show you.

For a bluetooth, this is out of stock for new but there are a lot of the same thing on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014MV03KY/?tag=wranglerorg-20

This setup helped me track down half a dozen codes on my jeep, mostly bad wires, connections, and fuel system cleanliness.

And a few hours of entertainment trying to find out what all the numbers it displayed really meant.
Don
 
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MHR said:
Great, let me know when you try it. I was looking at these as well: Autool Launch X431 Creader VI. I kinda like the idea of it being self-contained.
Click to expand...
Well i just checked the app store for iphone. It has it but it isn’t free for iphone. It is ten dollars. I would say if it is as good as the one on android it is worth it, but I will download some free ones this weekend and let you know what I find out
 
The software I recommended is for windows pc. The free version will display and clear codes and a lot of other things. But for $2.99 I went with the full version after I found out how easy it was to use.
But I did forget to mention that my laptop need a bluetooth dongle that plugs into a usb port, another $8.00.
 
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