Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

2002 transfer case issue

Olddawg

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New Hamshire
This This new to me and working through it. Also my first Jeep,, ever.

4wd drive clicked liked gears not in place. Just went through the linkage and it does engage. I can drive through the yard in high/low yet once I put pressure on it it grinds.

My thoughts are linkage is good and gears are worn. Thinking I'm dropping the TC and havin' a look see. Something else before I do so I could check?
Then comes is there a source for a rebuilt I could swap out for decent dollar?
Never rebuilt a TC before..
 
This This new to me and working through it. Also my first Jeep,, ever.

4wd drive clicked liked gears not in place. Just went through the linkage and it does engage. I can drive through the yard in high/low yet once I put pressure on it it grinds.

My thoughts are linkage is good and gears are worn. Thinking I'm dropping the TC and havin' a look see. Something else before I do so I could check?
Then comes is there a source for a rebuilt I could swap out for decent dollar?
Never rebuilt a TC before..

Do you have a body lift, motor mount lift, or tcase drop? Those can effect the linkage enough that it won't stay in gear properly. You could test it by disconnecting it from the shift level on the tcase shift it into 4wd manually and see if it still grinds or not
 
Thanx for the response!

My thought on the linkage position is: I hear/feel it engage. Since both 4H/4L grind, my thought becomes main gear is worn vs. the whole set. I've read about guides that wear out (think I read rubber) so that's another possible reason.

Anyway, dropping the skid plate today for access and disconnecting the linkage and having a better look-see at the process to remove the TC.
 
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Thanx for the response!

My thought on the linkage position is: I hear/feel it engage. Since both 4H/4L grind, my thought becomes main gear is worn vs. the whole set. I've read about guides that wear out (think I read rubber) so that's another possible reason.

Anyway, dropping the skid plate today for access and disconnecting the linkage and having a better look-see at the process to remove the TC.

I believe you can have an issue with the linkage such that it will go into gear, but the linkage will "pull" at the lever arm such that it causes grinding. But hard to say not being there, of course.
 
Ya know, as I think about this, could it be the hubs not engaging? I so don't like these electronic hubs... I like manual locking..
How can I check?
 
Just watched a vid on front axle replacement to understand what splines/gears are up front. Another article I read talked about how the front hubs/axle locks under torque. Without a second person handy, can one check without pulling the axle if the slipping I have is up there and not in the TC?
 
Just watched a vid on front axle replacement to understand what splines/gears are up front. Another article I read talked about how the front hubs/axle locks under torque. Without a second person handy, can one check without pulling the axle if the slipping I have is up there and not in the TC?

The front axle operates the same as the rear, with the addition of steering. The only axles that will lock up with torque applied will have an auto-locker of some sort installed... but that's not a stock item. I'm agreeing with testing by disconnecting the shifter, and manually shifting the TC at the case...
 
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That appears to be normal operation. Why the wheel turns one way but sits still the other probably comes down to resistance in the brakes or unit bearing making it easier to resist vs turn or vise versa in the opposite direction. The fact that when the wheel sits still the driveshaft turns, or when the wheel turns the driveshaft does not, is a sign of a fully functional open diff. The tire deciding not to move or to move probably just comes down to difference resistances in either direction due to the brakes or bearing like I mentioned at the beginning of this post.
 
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That appears to be normal operation. Why the wheel turns one way but sits still the other probably comes down to resistance in the brakes or unit bearing making it easier to resist vs turn or vise versa in the opposite direction. The fact that when the wheel sits still the driveshaft turns, or when the wheel turns the driveshaft does not, is a sign of a fully functional open diff. The tire deciding not to move or to move probably just comes down to difference resistances in either direction due to the brakes or bearing like I mentioned at the beginning of this post.

Okay. I'll clean it up, fluid and reseal. Working my way back towards the TC.
Thank you!
 
Linkage is out of adjustment.

To test, disconnect linkage at the transfer case. Click it in to the gear you want and test. Bet the transfer case works just fine.
 
Life has interfered a few times for working on the TJ. I'm back to the transfer case and as I though, not the linkage y'all been speaking of. Next I'll drain out the fluid and run the camera in there. Met a YJ dude at the swap and he rebuilds trannies/TC's and first thing in his mine is a stripped spine(?) gear. Says I should see it with the camera.
Believe all TJ's have the NP231 TC. Please confirm from. Also believe the tranny has to come out to rebuild the TC. That dude did mention that on some you can remove the TC itself.. That I'll look towards you folks cause I don't see it..

I should get to this later today with hopes of learning what the issue is..
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts