2004 LJ: I’ll take all the pointers!

LJtheunicorn

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2020
Messages
410
Location
Dallas, Texas
Finally getting around to making a build thread for the “Unicorn.” I wanted to do some more research before I ask too many already answered questions in my first build post.

The LJ has been a long time want for the wife and I so we finally pulled the trigger last week. 2004 wrangler unlimited with 82k miles hard top and a soft top 98% stock. Is has 32’s on factory suspension height with just wheel spacers. We like the look but know it won’t handle the wheeling we want to do as I’m already scared to flex on a curb and crunch a fender.
Our long term plan for this thing is 35’s (built correctly) and trailering it behind a 1 ton with a truck camper on it. This is a 5-10 year goal though so I really mean long term goal for 35’s!

I want to move to 33’s within the next 6 months though as the current 32’s look to be rather old but still have lots of tread depth. Cannot locate the date code on the tire(BFG AllTerrain Ko2). I want every upgrade/decision to be focused on the 35’s years down the road so that is always in my mind.

We love the Jeep as it is but we also know where we plan to go means it needs some mods.....


Our plan as of now is to get it on 33’s and flat tow it behind my f-150 to the Ozarks and Colorado throughout the next few years before we have kids. This is a third car/toy/weekend warrior.

We want to flat tow it behind my truck with a roof top tent over the bed of the truck, this will allow us to have a base camp and then branch off onto some trails and such. I know this runs the risk of breaking something hundreds or thousand of miles from home but if that happens we’ll just rent a uhaul trailer and tow it home.

Now we get to the build questions I have....

My first hurdle is a lift. While I know the OME and a 1.25 body lift would be great for 33’s I feel myself leaning more towards a currie 4 inch set up. My rookie mind has made this decision as I feel this will fare much better for 35’s years down the road while also avoiding the immediate tummy tuck requirement as I feel the OME 2.5 and BL would require.

I know I can do high line fenders and get the travel I need but I think the 4 inch is best as it would help immensely with the break over angle.

I don’t want to be the cheapest build but I do want to keep a budget in mind so I am wondering what if any driveline changes will I need with the 4 inch Currie since this is the longer wheelbase? I know stronger steering and brakes are highly recommended with anything over stock tire size but I want flex for the current tires and 33’s first. Since I am not daily driving it I feel I can wait a little longer on the brakes.


As I know this post is nothing without pictures here are some pictures of the Jeep!

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@jjvw is a good reference for this build plan as he was building towards 35's all along but ran 33's for quite a while on his set up.
 
Have you considered a 3" (Savvy) suspension lift and a 1.25" (Savvy) body lift?
Those are the plans for my '06 LJ (keeping to 33's) with Rancho (RS55239 & RS55241) RS5000X shocks

Currently running 2.5" spacers and 33x12.5's
DSCN0840[1].jpg
 
LJ’s require a tummy tuck at any lift height.

Edit; those fender wells are stuffed!
There is legit an inch on the front fenders....
I have found the parts needed for a tummy tuck but I haven’t seen a ball park price for a tummy tuck on an LJ, do you have an idea of a figure? I haven’t investigated the parts list and made my own ballpark yet.



Have you considered a 3" (Savvy) suspension lift and a 1.25" (Savvy) body lift?
Those are the plans for my '06 LJ (keeping to 33's) with Rancho (RS55239 & RS55241) RS5000X shocks

Currently running 2.5" spacers and 33x12.5's
I looked a little into savvy but figured I would try to do the max suspension I can do without major driveline mods if I’m going to go past the 2.5 HD OME as I have heard it’s close to 3 inch in reality.
 
There is legit an inch on the front fenders....
I have found the parts needed for a tummy tuck but I haven’t seen a ball park price for a tummy tuck on an LJ, do you have an idea of a figure? I haven’t investigated the parts list and made my own ballpark yet.
I haven’t, all the sellers talk about TJ mods that are necessary. And a quick search doesn’t return many detailed LJ installs. I’m about to order the Teraflex plates and see what happens.....
 
To shortcut a few steps on how mine got to where it is...

Currie 4" to start.

Control arms and track bars with Johnny Joints. I like Savvy and Currie. Don't waste time and effort with others that don't fit as well.

Learn to cycle the axles. This will help you figure out shocks, bump stops, steering, travels, clearances and any number of other nitpicky details that will separate your build from the rest.

Put a lot of effort into understanding the importance of good shocks and sway bars. The Antirock is great. A SwayLOC is excellent.

Don't be afraid to regear and go low.

Big brakes are great. I wish I would have installed them much sooner than two weeks ago.
 
Well I’ve heard a tj with a 4 inch lift requires lots of extra things the LJ doesn’t necessarily need, because of it’s longer wheel base the driveshafts are at more mild angles.

The only meaningful difference is when the rear driveshaft becomes an issue. Since you correctly want a 4" spring for 33s, that ship is about to sail.
 
The only meaningful difference is when the rear driveshaft becomes an issue. Since you correctly want a 4" spring for 33s, that ship is about to sail.
I thought I saw that the big issues with driveshaft issues start around 4.5 inches on an LJ?
 
There is some great advice on this thread. I think going with a Currie/savvy 4” lift is the best advice. On my LJ it has netted around 5” of lift but the jeep is light (soft top and factory bumpers). As it sits now I feel there is plenty of lift to go to 35s but I would not do that before a regear. At that point I would want to do lockers and chromoly shafts so it may be a few months down the road. Either way starting out with a great lift gives you options.
 
I thought I saw that the big issues with driveshaft issues start around 4.5 inches on an LJ?

That feels optimistic, but you can find out with some clever placements of jack stands and a floor jack to replicate the spring lift you want to do. Remember that the u joints need to spin freely at full droop, too.
 
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Welcome to the forum. Lots of great advice on here so far. Savvy/Currie is a fan favorite on here and it’s what I have as well. @Midnight LJR has a build that has developed its own cult following and is worth looking at for what you want to do to yours. Good luck with the build and I can’t wait to see where it goes 👍🏼
 
Welcome to the forum. Lots of great advice on here so far. Savvy/Currie is a fan favorite on here and it’s what I have as well. @Midnight LJR has a build that has developed its own cult following and is worth looking at for what you want to do to yours. Good luck with the build and I can’t wait to see where it goes 👍🏼
This forum is amazing and extremely informative, but as with the internet as a whole sometimes it’s on the information overload side of the tracks!
 
There is some great advice on this thread. I think going with a Currie/savvy 4” lift is the best advice. On my LJ it has netted around 5” of lift but the jeep is light (soft top and factory bumpers). As it sits now I feel there is plenty of lift to go to 35s but I would not do that before a regear. At that point I would want to do lockers and chromoly shafts so it may be a few months down the road. Either way starting out with a great lift gives you options.
That’s the plan. While I’m sure I will make mistakes and have to redo things I’m trying to limit the amount of those mistakes by lots of research!