2004 LJ: I’ll take all the pointers!

I'm in a similar position. I'm planning on 33s but building with 35s in mind in with the next set of tires. The options, combinations and opinions are endless. its maddening lol
 
4 adults in an LJ is gonna be cramped no matter what way you look at it. Gears are the hard part to install.
Lockers and shafts aren’t that hard. You could do them yourself with a little learning off YouTube.
 
Also the expense of having someone else install the lockers at a later time would negate the money you’ll lose doing 33s, then 35s and selling the 33s. Something else to think about.
 
4 adults in an LJ is gonna be cramped no matter what way you look at it. Gears are the hard part to install.
Lockers and shafts aren’t that hard. You could do them yourself with a little learning off YouTube.
We won’t be driving cross country like that but in Colorado we may have friends meet us there and such.

I don’t want to risk messing up the gear mesh when it comes to regearing and lockers.
Also the expense of having someone else install the lockers at a later time would negate the money you’ll lose doing 33s, then 35s and selling the 33s. Something else to think about.
I’m planning to only open the diff once, do lockers and gears all at once.
 
Why? Opening a diff isn’t scary. Plus you should change the fluid regularly if you’re off roading. And it’ll need to be changed initially after your first few hundred miles.
 
Why? Opening a diff isn’t scary. Plus you should change the fluid regularly if you’re off roading. And it’ll need to be changed initially after your first few hundred miles.
I guess I should’ve said setting gear mesh and swapping parts in and out. I don’t mind opening diff to change fluid that’s easy I just don’t want to pay someone to do gears twice
 
I guess I should’ve said setting gear mesh and swapping parts in and out. I don’t mind opening diff to change fluid that’s easy I just don’t want to pay someone to do gears twice
They don’t have to re setup the gears to drop a locker in.
 
Changing the carrier is just setting backlash. You don't need to set the pinion depth so it isn't a full setup.
^ that’s more what I was thinking.
Good point, pag. And thinking about it, at least for me, setting the pinion depth is definately the more challenging part. So you can get away with a carrier bearing shim kit and a dial micrometer and you are set. Make sense?
 
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If you want to run 35s you really need all adjustable control arms and I’d suggest more lift (4”+BL). My advice would be stick with 33s for now, both the the skinny and brake pedal work better and you can have a ton of fun on 33s.

I run 35s with your suspension setup but installed MCE fenders up front, all adjustable control arms and spent a ton of time cycling my suspension to barely make it work. I’d like more suspension travel (both up and down), long term will throw Currie springs in and the right sized shocks.
 
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If you want to run 35s you really need all adjustable control arms and I’d suggest more lift (4”+BL). My advice would be stick with 33s for now, both the the skinny and brake pedal work better and you can have a ton of fun on 33s.

I run 35s with your suspension setup but installed MCE fenders up front, all adjustable control arms and spent a ton of time cycling my suspension to barely make it work. I’d like more suspension travel (both up and down), long term will throw Currie springs in and the right sized shocks.
That’s the route I plan to go for now. I want the metal cloak fenders and rock rails but that’s like 3 grand, I don’t want to put all that into it at the moment. I’ll build everything else as you’re saying for 35’s as time goes on and when I get to 35’s everything will be in place.

I’ve got adjustable control arms tracks bars and all so when the time comes I too will jump to the 4 inch springs.
 
If that didn’t work, look up jperks87 (not me) on instagram

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