2004 LJ In Flux

[Fluxor]

Hi @Fluxor , sorry if this has already been covered, but can you comment on your design and how it compares to the Savvy rockers and corner armor, like quantity and location of mounting points, material, backing plate location and size? What are your thoughts on a mini boat side version of your rockers?

Savvy rockers and corner armor would have been the next addition to my TJ, but I’ve all but given up on that. Kudos on stepping up and making quality parts where others have dropped the ball!

@Tob how it compares to the Savvy rockers and corner armor, like quantity and location of mounting points, material, backing plate location and size

My corners are .1875" 6061, countersunk for M8 Torx Stainless Fasteners and include the inner 1.5"x.5" 6061 Tub Brace. As to the mounting locations I would assume they are not the same, meaning you could not take a set of already installed Savvy Corners off and replace them with mine expecting the holes to line up. I have never had anything from Savvy in hand. @psrivats is correct I sent a set of the TJ corners and rockers to @mrblaine for test fit and overall feedback. I cant thank him enough for taking his time to offer his input and help. I would suggest blanks for those wanting to line up existing holes.

TJ Rockers: My rockers are wheel well to wheel well, .1875" 6061 Base Plate, there is a small bend right under the door sill with two bends around the lower edge of the tub much like the savvy design. I fly-cut my torque box spacers as I can't source the thickness needed (I cant speak to what savvy does here) and all holes are countersunk for M8 Torx. I would say the main difference is in the steel outer guard. Savvy used a cut-fold-weld box that looks great with the stock plastic flares, adds strength and helps keep the doors and body protected. I wanted something that added strength but worked with aftermarket flares, O.E. flares, low profile and the ability to weld a tube or something to it if I or end user wanted. My rash guard is .1875 P.O. steel countersunk with M8 Torx Hardware that matches the bends of the Aluminum Base Plate. In similar fashion I would not expect any existing holes to line up. The inner tub brace is 2.5"x.5" 6061 and is included.

***I have had not had the time to make a tube version rash guard yet, lol. I just scored a vertical band saw that will let me make dialed angled cuts in tube quickly. Its in the works but not my first priority. The rear bumper is.

Hope this answers your questions, if you need more details please feel free to shoot me a pm or email to [email protected]

Thanks,

 

[Fluxor]

Do the rocker guards have backing plates in the tub?

Yes.

 

[psrivats]

@Tob how it compares to the Savvy rockers and corner armor, like quantity and location of mounting points, material, backing plate location and size

My corners are .1875" 6061, countersunk for M8 Torx Stainless Fasteners and include the inner 1.5"x.5" 6061 Tub Brace. As to the mounting locations I would assume they are not the same, meaning you could not take a set of already installed Savvy Corners off and replace them with mine expecting the holes to line up. I have never had anything from Savvy in hand. @psrivats is correct I sent a set of the TJ corners and rockers to @mrblaine for test fit and overall feedback. I cant thank him enough for taking his time to offer his input and help. I would suggest blanks for those wanting to line up existing holes.

TJ Rockers: My rockers are wheel well to wheel well, .1875" 6061 Base Plate, there is a small bend right under the door sill with two bends around the lower edge of the tub much like the savvy design. I fly-cut my torque box spacers as I can't source the thickness needed (I cant speak to what savvy does here) and all holes are countersunk for M8 Torx. I would say the main difference is in the steel outer guard. Savvy used a cut-fold-weld box that looks great with the stock plastic flares, adds strength and helps keep the doors and body protected. I wanted something that added strength but worked with aftermarket flares, O.E. flares, low profile and the ability to weld a tube or something to it if I or end user wanted. My rash guard is .1875 P.O. steel countersunk with M8 Torx Hardware that matches the bends of the Aluminum Base Plate. In similar fashion I would not expect any existing holes to line up. The inner tub brace is 2.5"x.5" 6061 and is included.

***I have had not had the time to make a tube version rash guard yet, lol. I just scored a vertical band saw that will let me make dialed angled cuts in tube quickly. Its in the works but not my first priority. The rear bumper is.

Hope this answers your questions, if you need more details please feel free to shoot me a pm or email to [email protected]

Thanks,

I have seen that black TJ with your corners/rockers. You do very good work. I only said what I said to keep the answer simple and easy. It's wonderful you see you sharing details and participating more on the board.

 

[Fluxor]

I have seen that black TJ with your corners/rockers. You do very good work. I only said what I said to keep the answer simple and easy. It's wonderful you see you sharing details and participating more on the board.

@psrivats I totally appreciate it, and can’t thank you guys enough for helping answer questions.

 

[RockyTopTJ]

Don't know how I missed this thread. I bought a UCF Front bumper about a month ago and planned on modifying it. Seems like I'll be selling that and picking yours up @Fluxor, along with your rocker guards in the near future.

If you get that rear aluminum bumper situated let me know as well
Also, do you have any plans for a gas tank skid?

 

[Fluxor]

Don't know how I missed this thread. I bought a UCF Front bumper about a month ago and planned on modifying it. Seems like I'll be selling that and picking yours up @Fluxor, along with your rocker guards in the near future.

If you get that aluminum bumper situated let me know as well
Also, do you have any plans for a gas tank skid?

Thanks! Yes, tank skid is on the list, it is after aluminum rear bumper.

 

[RockyTopTJ]

Thanks! Yes, tank skid is on the list, it is after aluminum rear bumper.

Keep this up and I might have to change the pictures on my calendar to your products.

 

[zebra12]

This is the rear Aluminum Bumper. I am thinking of two versions one with Hitch and one without. I may also make a cover plate so you could always add one later so I have less parts to deal with. Also added carriage bolts to one side just to see what it would look like. I would like some feedback on which you prefer. Also interested in how many would want the Hitch vs not.

Been looking at a bunch of different way to mount things. The OE crossmember is pretty thin. It seems like making the bumper shell stronger and mounting the item to it makes the most sense.

I have zero idea of what the hitch capacity is until I make one and try it. I use my hitch for my bike rack most of the time and I think this will do great for that purpose.
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Will the rear bumper have an option to mount so it hides a body lift?

 

[Fluxor]

Not the first version.

I have a steel rear bumper with hitch that covers the body lift, the steel lets you get away with smaller edge flanges etc providing more design freedom.

 

[JMT]

Will the rear bumper have an option to mount so it hides a body lift?

Or do a frame tuck.

 

[Fluxor]

Built a “hidden hitch” of sorts. It squeezes into the inside of the cross member, ties into the frame rails like the OE hitch and the receiver sandwiches the cross member. Excuse all the grinding this is a prototype that I can test before making it pretty. I’m gonna pull my bumper and test the hitch solo. If it works then this will be the with hitch option. Weighs 8lbs.

 

[Hackyman]

So does the hitch bolt on to that cross member? Is that cross member also the bumper?

 

[Fluxor]

Used I buddies Eastwood surface conditioning tool. It’s made to strip paint. I used the red roller and got a good brushed finish. Then applied the aerosol sharkhide. The sharkhide dulls the appearance slightly but I prefer it. I think I’m going this route on all me aluminum stuff.

Testing on a proto rocker.
The tool.

After, pic in overcast outside.

After sharkbite.

We’ll see how it holds up.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I like the effect from that paint stripping tool. Very nice.

 

[Fluxor]

So does the hitch bolt on to that cross member? Is that cross member also the bumper?

crossmember goes inside the OE cross member, receiver bolts to it from the outside.

Needs to be stronger. There is still some flex. The OE crossmember is really weak. The big square tube tube on the OE hitch does a great job of resisting “twist” when leverage is applied.

Hard to get a picture of the internal bracket.

 

[jwilkinson01]

crossmember goes inside the OE cross member, receiver bolts to it from the outside.

Needs to be stronger. There is still some flex. The OE crossmember is really weak. The big square tube tube on the OE hitch does a great job of resisting “twist” when leverage is applied.

View attachment 556715View attachment 556716
Hard to get a picture of the internal bracket.

Is there not enough room for square tube? Looking at my jeep, even with the Savvy raised gas tank skid there’s a lot of room in there behind the factory crossmember

 

[Fluxor]

There is, on the TJ

The limitation is squeezeing in between the two LJ crossmembers.

A cut fold piece let’s me put holes anywhere. The square tube will need to be drilled with a large enough holes to access hardware or weld in sleeves. All that adds cost and weight. I’m starting with less and will keep adding until it works.

 

[Tob]

Needs to be stronger. There is still some flex. The OE crossmember is really weak. The big square tube tube on the OE hitch does a great job of resisting “twist” when leverage is applied.

What exactly is flexing? Is the receiver flexing downwards, as tongue weight would cause (torsion in the OEM and backup crossmember) or is the receiver deflecting longitudinally forward and backward as braking and acceleration would cause (bending in the OEM and backup crossmember)?

 

[Fluxor]

@Tob Torsion. I gave the OE crossmember too much credit. Blain told me it was weak, he was correct.

REV2 will be something like this. Outer Piece seemed to work well other then I cut the receiver 3/8" too short, DOH. I can make a fixture for this to aid in assembly. Hopefully my buddy has some 1.5" tube laying around for me to build a proto with. Id like to get it built by the weekend, need to use my bike rack by Saturday morning.

 

[Tob]

After reading your comments on the weakness of the first prototype, I was curious whether round tubing or square tubing would be stronger in torsion, so I did some quick polar moment of inertia calculations (). Comparing an annular section with 1/4” wall and 3” outside diameter and a hollow square section with 1/4” wall and 3” sides, the square section is significantly stronger in torsion. If the above design also turns out to be too weak, maybe a fully boxed shape will be strong enough.