2005 Exhaust Manifold (Replacement Advice)

Mikee024

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Flying to AZ in March to change my 2005 exhaust manifolds. My friend's tool set is pretty basic and my tools won't be accessible.

I'll also be removing my driver-side fender for the first time.

I've purchased:
  • 14mm swivel socket
  • 14mm adjustable ratchet wrench
  • nickel-based anti-seize
Note 1: I have a fuel separator kit and 3/8" torque wrench.
Note 2: I'll get more 3/8" extensions.

Should I purchase additional swivel sockets or adjustable ratchet wrenches?

Any advice on other tools to get, such as longer wrenches?

Any advice on how to get to the bolts?

I'll need to triple-check that the manifold is properly seated or I'll be redoing the job (thanks @Jerry Bransford).

Any advice on the fender/manifold job is greatly appreciated.
 
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Mikee024

Mikee024

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I replaced mine with basic ratchet, socket, extensions, and a swivel. The only specialty tool was a fuel line separator - $3 plastic tool from O’Reilly auto

Great!

I forgot to mention that I have that tool as well. Will add the edit. TY
 
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Mikee024

Mikee024

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I replaced mine with basic ratchet, socket, extensions, and a swivel. The only specialty tool was a fuel line separator - $3 plastic tool from O’Reilly auto

I watched some youtube videos. One video said the 00-06 change is more annoying with the lower bolts. This is concerning lol.
 

KennethS

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I watched some youtube videos. One video said the 00-06 change is more annoying with the lower bolts. This is concerning lol.

I replaced the factory manifold with a Banks Engineering stainless steel header, which made accessing a few of the lower bolts more difficult due to the slightly larger, longer round tubes that were in a different position. Yes it was more difficult, but not unbearably so.
 
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Mikee024

Mikee024

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I replaced the factory manifold with a Banks Engineering stainless steel header, which made accessing a few of the lower bolts more difficult due to the slightly larger, longer round tubes that were in a different position. Yes it was more difficult, but not unbearably so.

I believe you are running the Banks Revolver manifold, which seems to hold up better than the 00-06 version for some reason.

I plan to install jBA headers and have a feeling the installation will also be more difficult than stock.

I purchased a Boostwerks stud kit since I didn't know what stock fasteners to purchase and didn't want to reuse my current bolts. I plan to barely start the lower nuts that go on the studs for installing the intake manifold. Hope that works out.
 
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SSTJ

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I may be too late to this thread, and mine was a 2.5 liter, but here are my notes and lessons learned. (Scroll down to "Fall 2021: Exhaust Manifold and Gasket").
 
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txbemis69

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I replaced the factory manifold with a Banks Engineering stainless steel header, which made accessing a few of the lower bolts more difficult due to the slightly larger, longer round tubes that were in a different position. Yes it was more difficult, but not unbearably so.

you’re right about the bottom bolts being a booger. lots of colorful words went into getting the bank’s piece fully bolted in place.
 
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Mikee024

Mikee024

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you’re right about the bottom bolts being a booger. lots of colorful words went into getting the bank’s piece fully bolted in place.

Did you need to need to remove the fender to access the bolts? And were you able to use a torque wrench?

Note: My manifold arrived damaged from shipping so I didn’t install it. Will do the install upon my return this summer.
 

txbemis69

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Did you need to need to remove the fender to access the bolts? And were you able to use a torque wrench?

Note: My manifold arrived damaged from shipping so I didn’t install it. Will do the install upon my return this summer.

did not remove the fender only the rubber inner part. no way to get a torque wrench on a couple of the bottom bolts. could only get a long open end wrench on them and got them what felt as tight as the others using the torque wrench. so far after a year and a half no exhaust leaks.
 
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