2005 LJ on 35s: going the distance

iamduck82

iamduck82

Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2018
Messages
32
Location
Calgary, AB, Canada
well... I stumbled across this forum while looking for info on an overhead console/control panel. Didn't fully realize this was a TJ forum till I snooped around a little. so here is my first post as a member.

little about my rig.

  • 2005 LJ Rubicon
  • Motor is toast because previous owner is a twat. so I'm building a 4.6 stroker that might some day go forced induction. (been dreaming of this motor for decades).
  • Rough country 6" long arm lift. swapped all the heims for EMF rod ends
  • 35" rubber
  • 17" rims
eventual projects

  • Truss and sleeve the front axle (if I were to go past 35" rubber i'll be doing a for 9" with f450 knuckles... pipe dream)
  • Hydraulic assist
  • Vanco brake upgrade
  • ANONE USE THE ALLOY 30 Spline Unit bearings?
  • Anyone try swapping in JK knuckles using offset ball joints?
  • axle upgrade probably a nice set of Yukon chromoly (RCV are over kill but once and done would be nice)
  • JANA K4 kit (JK R&P in both diffs)
  • Eaton locker front and back
  • 35 spline out back, 30 up front
  • rebuild Warn 8274 (I have a jeep model winch off an old CJ pretty sweet)
  • Nates4x4 dual jerry can tire carrier
  • dual battery tray (would like to try and fit two 1500 odesey somewhere
  • overhead console with Ham, Commercial radio (no one in Canada uses CB really), switches for lights and winch.
  • couple light bars, nothing crazy

the end goal is to have a nice expedition rig that can take me wherever and get me out of places I probably shouldn't have gone into.

hope to start some good dialogue with you fine folks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MallCrawlOnTons, MaloStapalo, skrelnik and 2 others
Glad you found this TJ only forum! You'll find we have a great bunch of folks here with a ton of knowledge. And best of all... it's only TJs!

Anyways, I dig the build. With that setup you'll have a very capable rig that should go where you want, and get you out of plenty.

One thing I'd like to add though...

This thread is worthless without pics
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blank
Hey, nice to have you here! Interesting build. You’re stroking it!
 
Well ok then...
b26eb4c4b3200de14cc4d0fb142929c8.jpg
99fea0e2f9f462eca41f20edd856011e.jpg
4fe8f621e4e6426fec56587333f65068.jpg
ed12d2afdef0c3e1c2349bac10d8c121.jpg
8a703bd67db945f0c6f4467381350704.jpg
4024561dd4455222f1be3f887a36b769.jpg
b5e972aa52e4be5c6f27a87e80beb0cd.jpg
a8a332cd8aeda3b72cea252c20b8f2ed.jpg
e5ee286f827585091c854ee0ac3932e9.jpg


Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: 02GreenTJ, MallCrawlOnTons, Fouledplugs and 3 others
Little about the engine.

Scat crank
4.0L length connecting rods (scat)
Custom pistons with 31cc dish
0.033 quench
Edelbrock aluminum head w/ large valves
~8.9:1 SCR
Custom camshaft 113 lobe separation
1.7 Harland sharp rockers (almost 0.508 lift @ valve)
High flow oil pump
FlowKooler water pump
135amp alternator
PSC power stearing pump
Mustang 5.0 10 blade fan and heavy duty fan clutch(keep things cool)
Debating what to use for a TB.

Guessing I'll be around 250hp but I'll hit 400hp when I boost this girl..... but in the mean time she will enjoy pump gas and roll like the trooper she was meant to be.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Baird and JMT
I'm actually planning on doing the Scat 4.7 stroker myself @iamduck82. Be sure to let us know how you like it once it's all said and done (before the boost too if possible). I opted against doing any headwork, only because all of the failed stroker stories I hear have one thing in common... hot camshafts and modified heads. The ones with the stock heads seem to last as long as a stock 4.0 from what I can tell.
 
Chris said:
I'm actually planning on doing the Scat 4.7 stroker myself @iamduck82. Be sure to let us know how you like it once it's all said and done (before the boost too if possible). I opted against doing any headwork, only because all of the failed stroker stories I hear have one thing in common... hot camshafts and modified heads. The ones with the stock heads seem to last as long as a stock 4.0 from what I can tell.
Click to expand...
Usually what kills them is the higher compression. The heads and cam are what help build the ooompf. Guys run added timing and chase big numbers and it eventually leads to ring or head gasket failure. Another factor is improper tuning anf they run rich which eventually kills the rings and bearings. In my case I'm running custom (my specs) pistons with gapless rings and low ish compression. I'm also taking care of tuning using a programmer.

When you build your stroker keep it simple. Towards the end of my build I realized boost wasn't what I needed (although it super bad ass lol). If I could re-order my pistons I'd aim for 9.5 cr and change the shape for N/A efficiency. But what I have now should last a long long time.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 
iamduck82 said:
Usually what kills them is the higher compression. The heads and cam are what help build the ooompf. Guys run added timing and chase big numbers and it eventually leads to ring or head gasket failure. Another factor is improper tuning anf they run rich which eventually kills the rings and bearings. In my case I'm running custom (my specs) pistons with gapless rings and low ish compression. I'm also taking care of tuning using a programmer.

When you build your stroker keep it simple. Towards the end of my build I realized boost wasn't what I needed (although it super bad ass lol). If I could re-order my pistons I'd aim for 9.5 cr and change the shape for N/A efficiency. But what I have now should last a long long time.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That's my plan, keeping it simple. The stroker kit I ordered is this one: https://www.extremeterrain.com/scat-stroker-40l-96-1-1-96015bi.html

I figure that if I do that, I should be able to get maybe 220rwhp, which I would be totally fine with.

Do you think that compression would be okay?

Also, which tuner are you running?
 
9
Chris said:
That's my plan, keeping it simple. The stroker kit I ordered is this one: https://www.extremeterrain.com/scat-stroker-40l-96-1-1-96015bi.html

I figure that if I do that, I should be able to get maybe 220rwhp, which I would be totally fine with.

Do you think that compression would be okay?

Also, which tuner are you running?
Click to expand...


The trick is what your DCR is.. 9.6 static is just the TDC volume vs the BDC volume. Depending on what cam shaft you use your intake valve closes at a different angle. your piston starts moving up before the intake valve closes fully so 9.6 wont be your exact CR. it will be more like 8 ish.... if you use a mild comp cam you'll hit your goal easily. I went with custom pistons so I could get a perfect fit for piston to head clearance and piston to cylinder wall clearance. keep it tight so you minimize blow by.

I'm using the diablo trinity simply because there is a tuner near me who can run the programming. There are a few good ones out there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
I have something that's been plaguing me since i bought the jeep.

build my reliable overland jeep or restore it (kinda).

its a 2005 LJ Rubicon.... a diamond in the rough with limited siblings alive or not butchered. its like finding a scrambler 12 years after production stopped... or finding a cherry 69 muscle car..

granted the previous owner (all reasons to call it butchered and roll with it):
  • put a long arm lift in it and cut off stock link tabs
  • smashed the tailgate by backing into something (no tire rack)
  • dented door and fender doing something off road
  • dented hood
  • also the ass hat cut the ground to the power rear window (heat/wiper) at the hard top connector.... he destroyed the hard top so cut the ground to put in a trailer pig tail right at the connector. such a piss off

care to chime in?
 
  • Like
Reactions: skrelnik
Ranger_b0b said:
Build it how you want it... It's already not original, so you can't go back. If you want original, you can still find them.
Click to expand...

thats my thought... the big line i'm contemplating crossing is when or if i do fenders... metalcloak, fabbed tube fenders, highline fenders.... i guess i'm using this as a sounding board to justify possibly cutting sheet metal.
 
If you do metal cloak, they don't require cutting sheet metal. Well, fronts anyway. Not sure what they do in the rear. Some of the less expensive flat fenders kits use the factory inners... Which if you're really worried about it, you could pull the factory ones and get some cheap re-pops to cut up. Keep the originals for whomever is next in line.
 
Top Bottom
Back