MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
2005 Rubicon; A Rubi Brother
- Thread starter Jamison C
- Start date
OP
OP
It is because one of my Rubi Bros is part of it!Isn’t this the greatest thread ever
OP
That’s ok you and @DaveC are part of the AZ Bros category
You lead. I follow.
I am unfamiliar with trails up there. Heck, I don't even know the trails down here.
That’s ok you and @DaveC are part of the AZ Bros category
Anorary @Farmergreg also.
Wait till Jan 5th to plan somethin.
They will just call all you non Rubi guys Sport, no worries
I has an X model. Call me Gen X please.
I’m putting up a sign at my little jeep shed that says “Jamison C parking only”
I go around all the time saying “you just wait till Jamison C gets here...he will fix this wire I cut .....I know he lives in Arizona but Santa Claus lives at the north pole and he comes”
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@Jamison C . Congrats on the Rubi. Coming along nicely. A Rubi on 32’s tucked with stock gearing is a dream build for me. My inspiration came from seeing a white one run the Escalator in 3 minutes.
Did you change the shocks yet? I bet that will really change the ride quality. I’d personally stay away from the Fox 2.0’s. I had a set I hated. Love that 1st gear with the 4:1! Keep that thing light. Really love a white TJR.
Did you change the shocks yet? I bet that will really change the ride quality. I’d personally stay away from the Fox 2.0’s. I had a set I hated. Love that 1st gear with the 4:1! Keep that thing light. Really love a white TJR.
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Thanks man, I’m his older, totally out of style alter ego
Really the reason I’m posting Is that little black when I had on 31-32” tires absolutely amazed me- I’ve got a big V-8 one in the build stage with an atlas, etc. I am like “ i’m not sure I need all this” it is showy and all that but a Rubicon is just phenomenal....If it won’t do it I’m not sure I need to be trying it.
OP
Thank you! The gearing with the NSG370 is ridiculously low. As for shocks I have not, but I'm leaning towards those Skyjacker Black Max shocks I've seen a few discussions on. I had the forum-recommended ranchos on my last jeep and didn't like them very much. They rode great when the jeep was fully loaded with people but the rear just bounced around too much when it was empty, which is normally how I drive it. The Fox 2.0s are rebuildable and I know a guy who knows how to, so I might do that later down the road. Best ride I could probably get aside from an outboard.
I think I'm going to go with the UCF extra clearance skid and just use 1" spacers on it until I'm ready to pull the trigger and get a full control arm set, or at least the rest of the rears, DC shaft etc. I don't think I can shorten the tail housing on the 241 like you can with an SYE on the 231.
OP
Getting over being sick since last weekend so I haven’t had any energy to tackle This weekend was a good one though as I got to run sound and tech at a Christian school event yesterday for four different bands.
Despite being sick, my build resolve has never been stronger. My plan is to continue tucking components. I have a Savvy gas tank skid lined up for purchase from a friend, and I’m planning on installing the UCF extra clearance skid when things slow down before the holidays. My hope is to score some good Black Friday deals but I’m not hopeful as the scamdemic has put immense pressure on demand. But don’t lose hope, this build is happening.
In the meantime, I took my new tap and die set for a spin. I’m a sucker for factory parts and I acquired the OEM satellite radio antenna and module that will work with my factory RBK radio.
There was no hole drilled in the roll bar for the antenna bracket so I made my own. This is an odd shaped bracket, but I found a way to position it to fit through the roll bar padding, marked a hole, used a punch for a drill guide, and went to work.
Hole drilled with a 1/4” bit. I have tons of M8x1.25 bolts lying around so I decided to use one up for this project. Not the prettiest tap, but it worked. It’s nice to know how thick the metal is on the chance I want to mount anything anywhere else on the cage.
Bolt went right in and tightened down snug. You can see what I meant by an awkward bracket. This is how it mounts though as confirmed by another forum member with the factory option already installed. The bracket also splits the gap in the padding perfectly.
Hardest part is finding the cover which I was lucky enough to receive with this. Looks very clean from the inside.
Soft top bracketry clears the cover and antenna, so all is good on this end!
The tricky part with this install will be trying to connect the module to the radio. I can do the wiring easily but the problem I’m facing is that I have no connectors to work with. I’ll probably pick through some junked Daimler-era Chrysler vehicles to see if I can find the connectors I need.
This weekend was a good one though as I got to run sound and tech at a Christian school event yesterday for four different bands.Despite being sick, my build resolve has never been stronger. My plan is to continue tucking components. I have a Savvy gas tank skid lined up for purchase from a friend, and I’m planning on installing the UCF extra clearance skid when things slow down before the holidays. My hope is to score some good Black Friday deals but I’m not hopeful as the scamdemic has put immense pressure on demand. But don’t lose hope, this build is happening.
In the meantime, I took my new tap and die set for a spin. I’m a sucker for factory parts and I acquired the OEM satellite radio antenna and module that will work with my factory RBK radio.
There was no hole drilled in the roll bar for the antenna bracket so I made my own. This is an odd shaped bracket, but I found a way to position it to fit through the roll bar padding, marked a hole, used a punch for a drill guide, and went to work.
Hole drilled with a 1/4” bit. I have tons of M8x1.25 bolts lying around so I decided to use one up for this project. Not the prettiest tap, but it worked. It’s nice to know how thick the metal is on the chance I want to mount anything anywhere else on the cage.
Bolt went right in and tightened down snug. You can see what I meant by an awkward bracket. This is how it mounts though as confirmed by another forum member with the factory option already installed. The bracket also splits the gap in the padding perfectly.
Hardest part is finding the cover which I was lucky enough to receive with this. Looks very clean from the inside.
Soft top bracketry clears the cover and antenna, so all is good on this end!
The tricky part with this install will be trying to connect the module to the radio. I can do the wiring easily but the problem I’m facing is that I have no connectors to work with. I’ll probably pick through some junked Daimler-era Chrysler vehicles to see if I can find the connectors I need.
OP
Another thing I meant to address regarding the beginning of my TT. I stuck some spacers between the skid and mount to raise the transmission 1.5” which means between that and the MML my drivetrain is sitting an extra 1” or so higher. Since lifting the transmission I’ve had a rattle coming from the front passenger area of the Jeep which I can mimic with shaking the engine ie. significant load or almost stalling the vehicle.
After some investigating, I found the exhaust rattling against the upper control arm mount on the frame side. I’ll solve this by cutting and dropping the vertical exhaust mount where it attaches to the transmission mount by about 2” and welding it back together. This should drop the exhaust enough to stop the rattling and clear everything else. I’ll update once I get it welded.
After some investigating, I found the exhaust rattling against the upper control arm mount on the frame side. I’ll solve this by cutting and dropping the vertical exhaust mount where it attaches to the transmission mount by about 2” and welding it back together. This should drop the exhaust enough to stop the rattling and clear everything else. I’ll update once I get it welded.
New one on me right there. Good job as always.Getting over being sick since last weekend so I haven’t had any energy to tackle
View attachment 287600
Despite being sick, my build resolve has never been stronger. My plan is to continue tucking components. I have a Savvy gas tank skid lined up for purchase from a friend, and I’m planning on installing the UCF extra clearance skid when things slow down before the holidays. My hope is to score some good Black Friday deals but I’m not hopeful as the scamdemic has put immense pressure on demand. But don’t lose hope, this build is happening.
In the meantime, I took my new tap and die set for a spin. I’m a sucker for factory parts and I acquired the OEM satellite radio antenna and module that will work with my factory RBK radio.
There was no hole drilled in the roll bar for the antenna bracket so I made my own. This is an odd shaped bracket, but I found a way to position it to fit through the roll bar padding, marked a hole, used a punch for a drill guide, and went to work.
View attachment 287603
Hole drilled with a 1/4” bit. I have tons of M8x1.25 bolts lying around so I decided to use one up for this project. Not the prettiest tap, but it worked. It’s nice to know how thick the metal is on the chance I want to mount anything anywhere else on the cage.
View attachment 287627
Bolt went right in and tightened down snug. You can see what I meant by an awkward bracket. This is how it mounts though as confirmed by another forum member with the factory option already installed. The bracket also splits the gap in the padding perfectly.
View attachment 287614View attachment 287613
View attachment 287615
Hardest part is finding the cover which I was lucky enough to receive with this. Looks very clean from the inside.
View attachment 287620View attachment 287621
Soft top bracketry clears the cover and antenna, so all is good on this end!
View attachment 287624View attachment 287625
The tricky part with this install will be trying to connect the module to the radio. I can do the wiring easily but the problem I’m facing is that I have no connectors to work with. I’ll probably pick through some junked Daimler-era Chrysler vehicles to see if I can find the connectors I need.