I've come to really appreciate a little fire on rusted hardware. A simple propane torch, count to 30.
Liquid wrench applied judiciously a few hours before you start. Heat too. I can’t imagine any factory fasteners seized on that cream puff you have. They can be a bit stubborn, so make sure you have a good strong wrench with a lot of leverage (or a good impact).
I've come to really appreciate a little fire on rusted hardware. A simple propane torch, count to 30.
Also, that’s what she said.There is a very noticeable difference in how tight the rear is.
Also, that’s what she said.
To clarify, the factory stuff came off no problem. The jam nuts for the savvy DAs and the currie rear track bar are stuck on really really good. But it sounds like liquid wrench and heat would be the way to go anyways. I don't know how else to try and break them loose. It's ok for now but this will need to be address when I do the tuck. I bought some cheap wheel dollies to make adjusting the DA arms easier.
Some thoughts after swapping to JJs all around in the rear. There is a very noticeable difference in how tight the rear is. Not so much with overallI driving, but when I accelerate and decelerate it feels like a smooth transfer of power, even with pinion load. The original bushings were starting to wear and you could feel the load shift with throttle input, these completely eliminated that.
I also hit my 500 mile mark on my gears, so new fluid is in and I can really use it.
Have you tried a cheater bar on your wrench? Makes jam nuts way easier. Sorry about that trackbar jam nut. I wonder if it’s tough to get loose because I had the trackbar set as short as it could go due to those Jeep west brackets. So maybe it’s needing to turn the entire JJ shank in the barrel to let the jam nut loosen.
Though at one point that bench was rocking like the back seat of my car on prom night!
Jk guys, I was still a virgin well after prom night lol.
Measured for rear shocks today.
If I did my math right, these specific Skyjacker Black Max shock’s ride height bias should be off by 1/8 or so.
My current eye-to-eye in the rear is 18 1/4” or 18.25”. These shocks show an even split at 18.15”.
Seems like a winner to me. If I did that right…
View attachment 381471
Measured for rear shocks today.
If I did my math right, these specific Skyjacker Black Max shock’s ride height bias should be off by 1/8 or so.
My current eye-to-eye in the rear is 18 1/4” or 18.25”. These shocks show an even split at 18.15”.
Seems like a winner to me. If I did that right…
View attachment 381471
Outboard, outboard, outboard, outboard, outboard, outboard, outboard!
Don't waste the time and money on anything else. Even split is only a part of it.
Outboard, outboard, outboard, outboard, outboard, outboard, outboard!
Don't waste the time and money on anything else. Even split is only a part of it.
I understand what a ground breaking difference outboarding is, I really do. But I am no where near ready to make that step yet. I probably won’t even consider that until I’m off of the 32s and are on 33s.
I also don’t have a place to do that kind of work right now. So I’m trying to do what I can to make everything work as efficiently as possible until I can start tackling custom stuff. My last couple Jeeps I just bolted stuff on and called it good. This time I’m trying to be as efficient as possible with the limited options that I have.
Maybe I open outboarding business in AZ ur boy has a starving Jeep to feed
Maybe I open outboarding business in AZ ur boy has a starving Jeep to feed
It’s funny you say that. I was telling my mom one night that there is no specialty gear shops where I live and if I got into it and just pounded gears for a year that I would probably have enough skill to run a place.
Same with outboarding. It’s such a unique mod but there’s enough of the right clientele where you live it could absolutely be feasible.