2005 Rubicon; A Rubi Brother

How did the SpeedoHealer install go for you? I'm weighing options for my upcoming lift and tires.
 
Welcome back! Beautiful Jeep! Let’s get you some quality bumpers and rocker guards/rock sliders to keep it that way!
 
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Well some work happened over the weekend and I was finally able to take it out yesterday for a test run and some very basic pictures. Over the weekend, to accompany the new 32s, I added an Antirock, a 2" BB, 1.25" BL, 1" MML, and some spring isolators (factory size is 3/4") to level out the rake. Everything is dialed in nicely and I'm still smooth as could be at 80mph. Some pictures of knuckle-banging fun.

Dropping the front axle to install BB and spring isolators.
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Spring isolators before and after. That extra 3/4" makes all the difference in the rake.
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Alignment for new tires after adjusting ride height.
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Mid-installation of the Antirock. Hard to take pictures and work so this will have to do.
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Full install after some use.
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I recruited help from my brother and the dog for the BL. I also had him cut down and install the links for the Antirock. I thought he would be annoyed with me but he was actually really digging seeing how the components work and come together.
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I only struggled with the MML and let me tell you why. Last time I did one of these I believe the instructions told me to start with the driver side because this was the most difficult side to line up, with minimal room to work. The AC compressor on 00-06 models sits right in front of the bolt going through the rubber isolator, which means you have to remove the compressor, or remove the mount from the engine block. Not remembering this from last time, I did the passenger mount first because it was most accessible and easiest to get to and knock out. After tackling this one, I spent close to an hour trying to line up the driver side mount. The only reason I succeeded was because I had to go back and remove the passenger mount that I had just done. This allowed me to tweak the block enough to line everything up for the driver mount. The passenger mount was much easier to adjust for once the driver mount was in place. Lesson learned: always do the driver side first. The JKS block-style mounts are great though because they allow you to retain the tried and true factory rubber isolators. I don't feel any extra vibrations after the MML.
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And now the moment you've all been waiting for; before and after pictures!

Driver's side:
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Passenger's side:
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And some obligatory pictures of flex and whatnot.
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I desperately need new shocks and the devil is tempting me with some Fox 2.0 IFPs. I'm gonna start playing with raising the transmission to see what I can get away with before I commit to a skid plate, but I have plans!
 
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How did the SpeedoHealer install go for you? I'm weighing options for my upcoming lift and tires.
I haven't installed it yet. The GPS app I used to have is no longer there, and the ones I've tried using seem to lag so I can't get an accurate reading. I'm gonna have to jump on the highway at some point and have someone else watch the GPS because it's too distracting to me.

Welcome back! Beautiful Jeep! Let’s get you some quality bumpers and rocker guards/rock sliders to keep it that way!
Thank you! Once I start toying a little more with true crawling I definitely will invest. I've been eyeing the savvy rails and step combo and contemplating color matching the rails and keeping the steps black. I have a set of half doors I need to paint and that would be a good time to paint the savvy rails as well.
 
Thank you! Once I start toying a little more with true crawling I definitely will invest. I've been eyeing the savvy rails and step combo and contemplating color matching the rails and keeping the steps black. I have a set of half doors I need to paint and that would be a good time to paint the savvy rails as well.

Man, you had bad timing. @Chris had a set of sliders for sale a short time ago.
 
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I upload through attach file and then insert image where I want to. Sometimes it duplicates them though. If you delete them all I'll just go back though and upload them again lol.

*Edit wait don't delete them all, just the duplicates!

Hmmm, I need to look into this then.
 
Today I received more Jeep parts, but in a package that would surprise you all.
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I remember having a set of KC highlights and being amazed at what a difference a good set of headlights did not just at night, but on the trail as well. I remember stumbling across a thread regarding a very inexpensive upgrade to good quality headlights, and now that I have a jeep again, I decided to pull the trigger.
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This is a headlight kit that replaces the stock sealed beams that even Toyota recognizes are crap. It comes with two Koito (made in Japan) glass headlamps, and a very high quality wire harness with relays that ties directly to the battery. With tax, this kit cost right around $50. Just the wiring harness alone is worth that.
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It came with a nice note and very good instructions as well.
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My plan is to install and test these out Sunday evening. There’s been some speculation on whether the stock sealed beams would perform better if wired directly to the battery. This is something I’ve always been curious about, and will also test before removing the stock lights, just for fun. I’ll take lots of pictures of my tests and post results for you all. I have high hopes for these!
 
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Beginning my tuck….ish.
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So today I began the first steps to eventually tucking my drivetrain. Being a Rubicon with the 241, space is going to be tight as that transfer case is a boulder. Before I commit to any skid plates (no idea which one I want to try), I want to experiment and make sure I can make things work. I also want to get my NSG370 back to at least stock height in relation to the body because shifting has been a perineal PITA since the 1.25 body lift.

A friend of mine gave me some brackets that he made to mock up at least 1.25” of TC lift. Two L brackets welded together to make a C, with two holes drilled in the top, and two bolts welded into holes coming out of the bottom. These will work for any TJ manual transmission.
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I jacked up the transmission and tried to fit these between the trans mount and skid plate, but no dice. Off came the skid plate with nutserts 0/6 in terms of spinners. In case you’re confused on how these brackets work, here’s a couple of pictures to give you the idea.
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Skid back in place with the weight of the transmission resting on it.
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Daytime was disappearing so I decided to wait on the rear upper control arms. The pinion angle isn’t TOO bad, but I’m definitely going to knock it out this weekend. I took it up to about 55 and felt no vibes, but the drivetrain is on the equivalent of 3” without any kind of u-joint relief.
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I also took some time to look around underneath to see what I noticed change. As far as I could tell, everything looked about right since the drivetrain and body now sit within stock relativity of each other. The exhaust hanger attached to the frame near the gas tank was ok since it has two points of attachment, and sort of swiveled into place.

On the plus side, my transmission no longer sucks to shift. The six-speed shifts better than the AX15 or NV3550 by far. I’ve owned both and always felt like it was a task to push them into gear, even with the right fluid. This one just seems to effortlessly lock right into place.

More to come!
 
Beginning my tuck….ish.
View attachment 284918

So today I began the first steps to eventually tucking my drivetrain. Being a Rubicon with the 241, space is going to be tight as that transfer case is a boulder. Before I commit to any skid plates (no idea which one I want to try), I want to experiment and make sure I can make things work. I also want to get my NSG370 back to at least stock height in relation to the body because shifting has been a perineal PITA since the 1.25 body lift.

A friend of mine gave me some brackets that he made to mock up at least 1.25” of TC lift. Two L brackets welded together to make a C, with two holes drilled in the top, and two bolts welded into holes coming out of the bottom. These will work for any TJ manual transmission.
View attachment 284920View attachment 284921

I jacked up the transmission and tried to fit these between the trans mount and skid plate, but no dice. Off came the skid plate with nutserts 0/6 in terms of spinners. In case you’re confused on how these brackets work, here’s a couple of pictures to give you the idea.
View attachment 284927View attachment 284928

Skid back in place with the weight of the transmission resting on it.
View attachment 284929

Daytime was disappearing so I decided to wait on the rear upper control arms. The pinion angle isn’t TOO bad, but I’m definitely going to knock it out this weekend. I took it up to about 55 and felt no vibes, but the drivetrain is on the equivalent of 3” without any kind of u-joint relief.
View attachment 284939

I also took some time to look around underneath to see what I noticed change. As far as I could tell, everything looked about right since the drivetrain and body now sit within stock relativity of each other. The exhaust hanger attached to the frame near the gas tank was ok since it has two points of attachment, and sort of swiveled into place.

On the plus side, my transmission no longer sucks to shift. The six-speed shifts better than the AX15 or NV3550 by far. I’ve owned both and always felt like it was a task to push them into gear, even with the right fluid. This one just seems to effortlessly lock right into place.

More to come!
My man @JamisonC. This is like a parallel universe....except he has brains and is using good parts.
 
Beginning my tuck….ish.
View attachment 284918

So today I began the first steps to eventually tucking my drivetrain. Being a Rubicon with the 241, space is going to be tight as that transfer case is a boulder. Before I commit to any skid plates (no idea which one I want to try), I want to experiment and make sure I can make things work. I also want to get my NSG370 back to at least stock height in relation to the body because shifting has been a perineal PITA since the 1.25 body lift.

A friend of mine gave me some brackets that he made to mock up at least 1.25” of TC lift. Two L brackets welded together to make a C, with two holes drilled in the top, and two bolts welded into holes coming out of the bottom. These will work for any TJ manual transmission.
View attachment 284920View attachment 284921

I jacked up the transmission and tried to fit these between the trans mount and skid plate, but no dice. Off came the skid plate with nutserts 0/6 in terms of spinners. In case you’re confused on how these brackets work, here’s a couple of pictures to give you the idea.
View attachment 284927View attachment 284928

Skid back in place with the weight of the transmission resting on it.
View attachment 284929

Daytime was disappearing so I decided to wait on the rear upper control arms. The pinion angle isn’t TOO bad, but I’m definitely going to knock it out this weekend. I took it up to about 55 and felt no vibes, but the drivetrain is on the equivalent of 3” without any kind of u-joint relief.
View attachment 284939

I also took some time to look around underneath to see what I noticed change. As far as I could tell, everything looked about right since the drivetrain and body now sit within stock relativity of each other. The exhaust hanger attached to the frame near the gas tank was ok since it has two points of attachment, and sort of swiveled into place.

On the plus side, my transmission no longer sucks to shift. The six-speed shifts better than the AX15 or NV3550 by far. I’ve owned both and always felt like it was a task to push them into gear, even with the right fluid. This one just seems to effortlessly lock right into place.

More to come!
@MountaineerTom see, spacers! Lol