Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

2005 TJ OPDA Question

menezes05tj

New Member
Original poster
Joined
Jun 21, 2024
Messages
9
Location
Cambridge Ontario Canada
Hello folks, PLEASE bear with me. 2005 TJ sport 4.0 up her in Ontario Canada with 213,000km (133,125 miles) still with original OPDA.
So I've researched and educated myself on this whole subject to death and made up my mind I would like to purchase as a spare. Up here now in Canada going for about $166.00
but money not the issue, I have seen a post this forum stating the Chrysler recall notice for the OPDA TSB ID 9419-EO5 MAR 2005, engine pump drive cam replacement

Now my question is this.. its 2005! I'm pretty sure I got the original OPDA cause I bought from original owner and she did not recall replacing it, then again I asked her and she cant remember So, Based on the TSB info, I have The "s" in the 8th VIN position, so I guess it pertains to my jeep!
Do any of you that have a 05-06 STILL HAVE your original OPDA ?? Mine is quiet as a mouse even with our cold temps up here. I know, I've read she could go any time without warning or sounds indicating she's on her way out. I would really be interested to know who still has the original. original owner went to Chrysler and they only gave records going back to 2016.

Should I just buy and put on shelf like alot of other guys did or not worry about it. I know its been beet to death this topic but being what the problem is and given mileage and year im curious if others in same state as me?

Yes I got a Wrangler Fix TCM/PCM Mark was great!!

PS.. all stock no modifications.
Thanks

Mark Menezes
Cambridge Ontario Canada
 
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Only way to know it's condition is to pull it and inspect it for binding and gear wear.

The recall was for the OPDA gears on certain 2005s. Still the same failure prone design OPDA, so it does not fix the problem.
 
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My 2005 had 160XXX miles when I bought it. Pretty sure it was the original one but not certain. It wasn't making any noise but I like to proactively replace parts that are known to be an issue. I'd replace it with a Crown unit. It's easy.
 
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I'd pull it and inspect it. But, since you have it out, may as well replace it. If it looks decent, keep the old one as a spare.
 
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It's not a time consuming job as long as you do it right. Put engine at top dead center. The Crown replacement comes with a plastic pin that goes through the OPDA to keep it in position. Make a mark on the engine block and the old OPDA so you put the new one in at the right place. Put the plastic pin in the replacement and drop it in. Make sure the marks you made on the engine line up with the mark on the OPDA. Put your original sensor in the new OPDA. I've done this on two TJs and it takes less than an hour and I'm not a mechanic. You can find detail instruction on this site.
 
Mine is a 2005 with the original one at 46k miles. It's 20 years old now so I thinking it must be one that was not included in the group. Maybe I have my head in the sand ? :unsure:

🤣🤣
 
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When I bought mine I asked PO about it and he said it was repaired under recall. 114K with no issues. I’ll wait and see what happens in the future. Fuel pump just failed and I’m waiting for UPS to bring it next week.
 
Wow thanks everyone! Yeah I book marked that one from Zorba. lots of good vids on you tube I think I have seen them all at least once. I have ordered a crown from "just jeeps " up here in Toronto. I think its coming from Rugged Ridge where my front fenders came from since they don't have in stock at the moment. Looking to install in spring as gets warmer. she's as quite as a mouse now, even with our cold temps up here I think I read on a thread that Chrysler installed the upgrades under warranty with some kind of hole drilled in the shaft to allow for oil flow?? If that's sounds familiar, maybe that's why mine possible hasn't gone yet...not sure. Sound familiar to any one?

Two quick questions 1. before removing the old OPDA, when I crank the engine 3/4 bolt clockwise to line up spindle wheel hole with OPDA housing hole as seen in vids, would that not be considered top dead Centre (TDC) cylinder one on the compression stroke? Not sure where... the spindle hole is going to be anyway when I take off the cover of the old OPDA but I'm going to turn the crank bolt clock wise since that's the way it runs even though I've seen some guys go counter clock wise until both holes line up then put the plastic pin through both underneath...is that not top dead center anyway?

2. last spring I installed a new " Wrangler Fix " PCM/TCM and runs great, but by installing a new OPDA I hope it will "relearn" on its own...
I can always loosen the OPDA clamp hold down bolt and adjust if need be if I get any CEL. From what I've seen on YouTube vids one guy ran into that problem and it was going in limp mode around 3000rpm until he adjusted OPDA slightly towards valve cover and solved the issue, Not saying he had a new pcm but that's how he fixed his limp mode. I'm going to use the original OPDA sensor as recommended!

Any other further input would be great! I'm a Virgo so minute details matter... Sorry cant help it LOL.
 
Wow thanks everyone! Yeah I book marked that one from Zorba. lots of good vids on you tube I think I have seen them all at least once. I have ordered a crown from "just jeeps " up here in Toronto. I think its coming from Rugged Ridge where my front fenders came from since they don't have in stock at the moment. Looking to install in spring as gets warmer. she's as quite as a mouse now, even with our cold temps up here I think I read on a thread that Chrysler installed the upgrades under warranty with some kind of hole drilled in the shaft to allow for oil flow?? If that's sounds familiar, maybe that's why mine possible hasn't gone yet...not sure. Sound familiar to any one?

Two quick questions 1. before removing the old OPDA, when I crank the engine 3/4 bolt clockwise to line up spindle wheel hole with OPDA housing hole as seen in vids, would that not be considered top dead Centre (TDC) cylinder one on the compression stroke? Not sure where... the spindle hole is going to be anyway when I take off the cover of the old OPDA but I'm going to turn the crank bolt clock wise since that's the way it runs even though I've seen some guys go counter clock wise until both holes line up then put the plastic pin through both underneath...is that not top dead center anyway?

2. last spring I installed a new " Wrangler Fix " PCM/TCM and runs great, but by installing a new OPDA I hope it will "relearn" on its own...
I can always loosen the OPDA clamp hold down bolt and adjust if need be if I get any CEL. From what I've seen on YouTube vids one guy ran into that problem and it was going in limp mode around 3000rpm until he adjusted OPDA slightly towards valve cover and solved the issue, Not saying he had a new pcm but that's how he fixed his limp mode. I'm going to use the original OPDA sensor as recommended!

Any other further input would be great! I'm a Virgo so minute details matter... Sorry cant help it LOL.

Get or borrow a bidirectional scan tool and verify/adjust the timing after the installation.
 
Thanks for the info! I just installed the new wranglerfix pcm with performance upgrade today and a new CEL came up which was the OPDA cel. I have a 2006 with 62k miles on it and the original opda. I never had any issues prior to installing the wranglerfix pcm so its strange that the new PCM tripped this CEL and caused this to happen. I did the new PCM just out of preventative maintenance and a lot of positive reviews with people installing this with the new performance upgrade making their jeep run like a rockstar. I guess with the 2005/2006 its not if but WHEN the PCM will fail. Figured I would hammer it out now and now I have to take care of this OPDA issue. After that all should be good. No screaming monkeys under my hood and i've only driven the jeep 8 miles since the new PCM and now its parked until the new OPDA comes in. I dont want to damage the crankshaft!

I do have a question about the TDC alignment. I plan on rotating the crank bolt clockwise as mentioned so that way the 2 holes line up. Is it necessary to remove the plastic pin from the new OPDA and put it in the old one that is being removed? Can't we just take the cover of the old OPDA off and line up the holes and put a screwdriver or something that fits snug in those holes to keep it in line and then remove the opda, replace with new opdate and then pull the white pin or just start it up and let it sheer off as others say to do? Also regarding TDC, how do we know its TDC with cylinder 1? Wouldnt there only be 1 TDC available and thats when the 2 holes are lined up? Is there risk of something not timed correctly if we align the 2 holes assuming thats TDC?
 
You can use anything to line up the old OPDA holes. Philips head works great, or allen key.

When you line up the old OPDA holes, the engine should be at TDC on cyl 1 compression. You need to check the timing mark on the crank pulley and be sure it's aligned with the pointer as the OPDA gear may have some slop.

If the old OPDA has been removed and it wasn't aligned first, the process becomes more involved.
 
You can use anything to line up the old OPDA holes. Philips head works great, or allen key.

When you line up the old OPDA holes, the engine should be at TDC on cyl 1 compression. You need to check the timing mark on the crank pulley and be sure it's aligned with the pointer as the OPDA gear may have some slop.

If the old OPDA has been removed and it wasn't aligned first, the process becomes more involved.

Do you have a photo or a reference point to look at when you mention the timing mark on the crank pulley? Where would I find the timing mark on the crank pulley to verify? Is there something I need to remove to verify this? I do not want to mess timing up so any additional feedback you have to verify the timing mark on the crank pulley is appreciated.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator