2006 LJR "UCF skids and tummy tuck"

Farmergreg

The work will set you free
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In March I bought a "survivor" '06 LJ Rubicon. It's got a buttload of miles but hasn't been fubared. Very straight and clean.
Despite spending its life in the Midwest....looks like the prior owner got the memo on keeping corrosion away.

While not an Arizona jeep but plenty good for my use.

It's sitting on 31's and will until the tires need replaced with the plan to go to 33's.

Pic 1 as purchased
Pic 2 new Bestop soft top installed and the nerf bars removed.
41971

41972
 
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We took it to the Badlands local off-road park to figure out its shortcomings.

Transfer case scoop.
No disco on swaybar
Rear approach angle with the hitch sux!

With the above in mind I ordered:
UCF low pro transfer skid
UCF low pro trans mount
UCF oil pan skid
UCF gas tank skid 1" raise
JKS 1.25" body lift

And likely add motor mount lift and exhaust (exhaust is dicey) work to the list.

Got to do something with the rear bumper and hitch too!

Will wait to do any suspension lift until we see how the skids work out.
 
Kentland Indiana.
201,000 miles!
It was on Craigslist back in February......I hemmed and hawed for about a month before I finally decided to look because of the 200k miles and that it was used in the salt bath.

When I finally met up to look it over, I was surprised at how clean it was.
 
A few pics from our escapades @Badlands Attica, IN
As a farmer, I don't have to look very far to find something to fix! I'm not in this Jeep to destroy it, then fix it.


In the lot with my son's K30
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Just out on the trail
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Crawled up a hill covered in chunks of sidewalk:
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Hung up at the crest:
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So the wait is on.....
UCF parts ordered Sunday, series of confirmation emails immediately.
Monday another email: "your order is being processed"
I finally inquired on Thursday: "it will ship Friday or Monday"
Friday came and went and I'm guessing they won't be shipping on Memorial Day!

In the future UCF might consider mentioning in the description items that are "built to order" and indicate a lead-time.

Next time I will use the old fashioned telephone and just ask......

Not that its a deal breaker....just had some extra help around for the 3 day weekend.
 
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Good stuff coming your way. Which skid and what control arms are you going to run?
Plan is to start with the tuck and rear bumper. I bought the high clearance skid... sure hope that was a good idea!
Going to drive it for a year on the 31's and go from there. So far I like the savvy/currie lift.
 
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Since I've got the JKS body lift planned and eventually putting 33" tires on, I'd like to get some opinions on the savvy/currie 3" lift with the DA arms VS the 4" lift.
 
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You could do the 4 inch lift and clear 33's with no body lift, or go with the 3 inch and keep the body lift. Since you have an LJ, rear driveshaft isn't as big a concern. For a TJ, I'd say the 3" with a body lift all day.
 
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This forum is detrimental to my savings account!!
The parts pile is growing:
UCF skids
Savvy shifter cable
JKS BL
MORE MML
MBRP exh (mine is marginal)
GM Fuel filler tube

Waiting for a few more goodies and my son to get done with his axle swap on the K30
 
Good plan, I can't wait to see the (never) finished product! Check out the Dirtworx rear bumper with hitch - it is stout, and you'll get some departure angle back.
 
You are going to have the gas tank out to install that skid so ditch the GM hose band aid and fix it permanently and correctly.
I actually debated on that, but figured I'd buy the bandaid in case. Also have tank straps coming.
 
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I actually debated on that, but figured I'd buy the bandaid in case. Also have tank straps coming.
Much easier to do it during the install than to have to pull it a second time. The hose does not always work. It didn't for mine and there are some other folks on another forum where it didn't work. If the plunger stays stuck open, that is when you get splash back. If it sticks closed (mine would do both at different times) it can take 15+ minutes to fill up the tank. The hose does nothing for that.
 
So the build pile continued to grow in the last few weeks:
MetalCloak double adjustable aluminum control arms (thanks! @Chris)
JKS JSPEC 3" springs
JKS Front & Rear track bars
JKS Rear sway bar links
Rancho 5000X Shocks
UCF Aluminum winch plate

Finally had enough and being that its 49º and windy out decided it was time to start.
Mainly dirty tear down work this weekend. As a midwest jeep, I've got some areas to wire wheel and POR15 before continuing.

Also tossed out the transfer case shifter and installed a Savvy cable conversion. (thanks @JMT for his write up on the install)
Have MORE motor mount lifts to put on.
Got the MC control arms mounted. (After spinning all the joints out and coating with anti seize) Probably going to go thru a whole bottle by the time the build is done.

And one other sonofabitch...one of the rear shock bolts decided to break, (we soaked everything with Kriol whenever we had the jeep on the hoist lets say since April) even after heating. What a shit design. Will probably tuck another weld nut in there and use anti seize liberally. At least with the body lift and the gas tank out you can access it.

Pic descriptions below:
Started with the body lift naturally the right rear weld nut came loose inside. We cut an access and welded it back in place. Otherwise went pretty smooth. Jr below welding the nut back in position:

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Using a jack stand along with the hoist to raise the body off the frame to install the pucks:

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Pile of dirt in the "mud scoop" This particular variety came from my one and only trip to the Badlands at Attica this spring. (@IPerkWVU We'll bring it back on the next trip when we shake down the build!)

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Woo Hoo! My lucky day.....dug thru the drill collection and found an extra long 33/64 drill....just what the DR. ordered to drill the mounts for the larger bolts on the MC control arms:
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Dropped the gas tank and while it was down removed the back flow? valve. Filed the little ribs on the float and now it doesn't stick. (and hopefully doesn't spew gas anymore)

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Jr. tightening the tank straps in the UCF skid. This will allow the tank to come up 1". We had to SOAP the tank and skid to get the tank in. Very snug fit.
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Wow, you sure have a lot of mud in that factory skid! Goes to show how bad those things really are.

Looks like it's coming along nicely though. I'll bet it's a lot easier working on it with a lift. @zebra12 and I had to drop my fuel tank twice to do my GenRight fuel tank. It's a pain in the butt when you're on your back in the garage, even with 2 people!