2006 "rev limiter" kicks in at 3500 RPM

shadow26dpz

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Ok, I have a bit of a mystery on my hands. I have a 2006 wrangler unlimited with the 4.0. Problem started when the "rev limiter" kicked in at 3500 rpm. Did some work. Changed plugs, coil pack, crank position sensor, cam position sensor, then finally OPDA. This is my second replacement OPDA - the original one went bad about 6 months ago - bad bearing. Still having "rev limiter" issue at 3500 RPM, and it is giving the same code it did before - cam position sensor. Also, cruise control won't work after about 2 minutes of the Jeep running. One thing to note, when I pulled the second OPDA out, the gear teeth were worn, and that OPDA had a lot of play and rough spots in it when I spun it - I exchanged it for a new one because it was still under warranty. I have about 130,000 miles on the jeep.... ANY suggestions are helpful!!! Could it be the cam itself?


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Are any codes being thrown?

My first thought is maybe when you installed the OPDA you didn't get the timing 100% accurate and now it's not timed correctly.

Did you use all OE sensors for the replacements? These TJs are extremely fussy when it comes to any sensors or electronic replacement parts that aren't OE. I'm not exaggerating that either, it seems like almost anytime someone uses a sensor or replacement electrical part from their local auto store, their TJ rejects it.
 
If you're using the CPS that came in the OPDA, remove it and install the original CPS or go buy a Mopar CPS. The CPS that comes in the kit is known to give problems. Don't install a store-brand aftermarket CPS either.
 
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Are any codes being thrown?

My first thought is maybe when you installed the OPDA you didn't get the timing 100% accurate and now it's not timed correctly.

Did you use all OE sensors for the replacements? These TJs are extremely fussy when it comes to any sensors or electronic replacement parts that aren't OE. I'm not exaggerating that either, it seems like almost anytime someone uses a sensor or replacement electrical part from their local auto store, their TJ rejects it.

I am still getting the code P0344 which is the cam sensor. I used the sensor that came with the new OPDA which I bought at an auto parts store. My original sensor was discarded with the original OPDA several months ago. So it sounds like I may need to get one from MOPAR?


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If you're using the CPS that came in the OPDA, remove it and install the original CPS or go buy a Mopar CPS. The CPS that comes in the kit is known to give problems. Don't install a store-brand aftermarket CPS either.

Hi Jerry, I did use the sensor that came with the OPDA, as the original was trashed several months ago with my original OPDA. So both sensors are from a local auto parts store - I was originally showing a faulty crank sensor along with the cam sensor, so that's why I replaced it. But it sounds like from your post and a previous post, I may need to just get both sensors from my local jeep dealer. Thank you!


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I am still getting the code P0344 which is the cam sensor. I used the sensor that came with the new OPDA which I bought at an auto parts store. My original sensor was discarded with the original OPDA several months ago. So it sounds like I may need to get one from MOPAR?


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Yep, I'll bet money it's your replacement cam sensor. There's been a lot of threads on this, where guys used a cheap sensor from their local auto part store, and it ended up not getting rid of the code. While I don't know exactly why this is, I can say that it seems that TJs are really fussy about OE sensors. If you had a Honda, that aftermarket sensor would work just fine (I know from experience), but our TJs are just so finicky.

My suggestion is to replace the sensors you bought (if you can still return them) with OE Mopar sensors. I've been seeing this sort of thing a lot lately with aftermarket sensors. They fit, they plug in, and for all intensive purposes they SHOULD work. However, they rarely seem to!
 
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BTW, here's the OE Mopar camshaft position sensor for your 2006:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJ2UE58/?tag=wranglerorg-20

And here's an OEM crankshaft position sensor for your 2006 (the original one was discontinued by Mopar, but Bosch is an OE supplier to Mopar and this one has been proven to work):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001COAS78/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Make sure you're running the correct plugs as well.

I quote @Jerry Bransford on his advice about spark plugs for our engines:

The right brand and model of iridium plug is a great choice in any of the 4.0L engines including the latest distributorless with coil rails. One 'correct' iridium plug is the Autolite XP985 which I've been running for years. It's a very popular choice which is known to perform well for 200k miles.

The type of technology plugs that don't run well in the newer distributorless engines are single tipped platinum plugs like the Autolite AP985 or Champion 3034. Their problem is the platinum coating is only on one side of the gap. That eventually causes misfires with waste-spark ignition systems like the newer distributorless 4.0 engines use.

Double tipped platinum plugs like the Autolite APP985 and Champion 7034 work fine in the newer 4.0L engine too. These perform well for about 100k miles.

Just avoid the single-tipped platinum plugs like mentioned above.
 
BTW, here's the OE Mopar camshaft position sensor for your 2006:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJ2UE58/?tag=wranglerorg-20

And here's an OEM crankshaft position sensor for your 2006 (the original one was discontinued by Mopar, but Bosch is an OE supplier to Mopar and this one has been proven to work):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001COAS78/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Make sure you're running the correct plugs as well.

I quote @Jerry Bransford on his advice about spark plugs for our engines:

The right brand and model of iridium plug is a great choice in any of the 4.0L engines including the latest distributorless with coil rails. One 'correct' iridium plug is the Autolite XP985 which I've been running for years. It's a very popular choice which is known to perform well for 200k miles.

The type of technology plugs that don't run well in the newer distributorless engines are single tipped platinum plugs like the Autolite AP985 or Champion 3034. Their problem is the platinum coating is only on one side of the gap. That eventually causes misfires with waste-spark ignition systems like the newer distributorless 4.0 engines use.

Double tipped platinum plugs like the Autolite APP985 and Champion 7034 work fine in the newer 4.0L engine too. These perform well for about 100k miles.

Just avoid the single-tipped platinum plugs like mentioned above.

Awesome - thank you so much!


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Ok, here is an update, and it's kinda weird, but it's worked so far for the past several weeks. I switched out the cam sensor that came with my aftermarket OPDA to a MOPAR one, attached the wire loom to the appropriate attach point, and it ran even worse. So, on a whim, I moved the cam sensor wiring loom away from the main loom and zip tired it away from any others wires thinking it may be interference of some kind - low and behold, it's run fine since then! I don't know if it's voodoo or what, but at least I'm back in the driver's seat! Thanks for all the help guys - that's why I love this message board!


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BTW, here's the OE Mopar camshaft position sensor for your 2006:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJ2UE58/?tag=wranglerorg-20

And here's an OEM crankshaft position sensor for your 2006 (the original one was discontinued by Mopar, but Bosch is an OE supplier to Mopar and this one has been proven to work):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001COAS78/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Make sure you're running the correct plugs as well.

I quote @Jerry Bransford on his advice about spark plugs for our engines:

The right brand and model of iridium plug is a great choice in any of the 4.0L engines including the latest distributorless with coil rails. One 'correct' iridium plug is the Autolite XP985 which I've been running for years. It's a very popular choice which is known to perform well for 200k miles.

The type of technology plugs that don't run well in the newer distributorless engines are single tipped platinum plugs like the Autolite AP985 or Champion 3034. Their problem is the platinum coating is only on one side of the gap. That eventually causes misfires with waste-spark ignition systems like the newer distributorless 4.0 engines use.

Double tipped platinum plugs like the Autolite APP985 and Champion 7034 work fine in the newer 4.0L engine too. These perform well for about 100k miles.

Just avoid the single-tipped platinum plugs like mentioned above.

The camshaft position sensor isn't available on Amazon now, do you have a part number or another place to get it?
 
The camshaft position sensor isn't available on Amazon now, do you have a part number or another place to get it?

The part number is 05149034AA. However, it looks like it's no longer in production, so you'll have to see if you can source it out somewhere.
 
The part number is 05149034AA. However, it looks like it's no longer in production, so you'll have to see if you can source it out somewhere.
After changing the camshaft position sensor 3 times I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor as well and still no change, I've checked for TDC also but I have just noticed that the target wheel in the opda has some play... is this normal?
 
After changing the camshaft position sensor 3 times I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor as well and still no change, I've checked for TDC also but I have just noticed that the target wheel in the opda has some play... is this normal?

A little play is normal if I recall correctly.
 
I'm having this same issue. Did the "rev limiter" kick in while you were stopped in neutral? I don't have the "rev limiter" issue if I just rev up the engine sitting in the driveway. I do have it in gear 2 through 4.