2006 TJ Rubicon—Replacing the entire front end of my rock crawler

HoweTyler

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Supporting Member
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Jun 4, 2020
Messages
58
Location
Ogden, UT
I have been running a 2006 TJ Rubicon for the last 6 years on some of the hardest rock-crawling runs in Moab, Utah and more. It has a 4" short arm lift and a 1" body lift. I run 35" tires. I have done the WJ brake/booster swap. It has the stock dana44 rubicon front end( really a dana 30 with 44 innards). The rear is a G2 Core 44 that I had to purchase after I ran off a sand-dune, in Sand Hollow Utah, and bent the stock rubicon housing!

Been a great short-wheelbase crawler! But, after I upgraded to 5:13 gears I have started breaking things. It seemed like every run I broke something - pinion, locker, inner-shaft - in my front end.

Time to upgrade!!!

Minimum upgrades:

- Matching G2 CORE 44 front end
https://www.g2axle.com/pages/view/dana44_front_assemblies
- Genright Boulder Front Hi-Fenders - Aluminum
https://genright.com/products/tj-lj-boulder-front-hi-fenders-aluminum.html
- Genright Inner Fender Kit with lights
https://genright.com/products/tj-lj-hi-fender-inner-fender-kit.html
- Poison Spyder BFG Front Bumper with Stinger
https://shop.poisonspyder.com/TJ-BFH-Front-Bumper-Trail-Stinger-Tabs-p/14-16-020-ds.htm
- New Cold-air intake
- new washer fluid and coolant tanks

Additional Options:

- 4" Full TractionLong-Arm Suspension"
https://www.full-traction.com/detail.php?b=1&m=3&t=1&p=1551&n=NULL
- Taller Shock Mounts
- Coil-Over Shocks

I'll be posting this journey in case anyone is really interested!

Here is a picture of my Jeep before started on this project!

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First thing I did was remove the old front bumper and winch and moved it to my new 2004 LJ. Pretty simple, remove 8 bolts (2 underneath and 6 above), unhook the wiring, and it all comes apart! You need to watch out for the spacers that keep the winch-plate level to the bumper. The bolts are different lengths to miss the frame tubing below.

I lightly sanded and repainted the bumper before installing it on the LJ. My wife is happy - so that makes me happy!

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The next thing I did was to remove the front stock fenders. A lot of bolts you have to track down.

- Because I am replacing the fenders I had to remove everything attached to them; airbox, relay box, horns, wiper fluid container - everything.
- You need unhook your lights and pull them through the fender.
- Then find all the bolts on the firewall and radiator housing. There are quite a few!
Once the fender is loose you can just wrestle it free. You need to make sure you pull the black shielding OVER the shocks to get them out.

One note! There is an evaporative box kinda hidden in the passenger side fender, along the firewall. I did not realize that until I pulled the fender off and broke the tubing.

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NEW PARTS

I got my fenders and bumper in! I also bought some cleaner, etching primer, and paint for the bumper.

Still waiting for my front end. G2 is building it as we speak and I should have it in a couple of weeks.

Looking positive I will get a new long-arm kit!

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Well, still waiting for my front axle assembly from G2 so I decided to start painting things! I am going to paint the new Battery Box (for the new Ge Right Highline fenders, and the new Poison Spyder front bumper.

I am using the following to clean, prep, and paint:
  • 1705 Grow Super Klean solvent to clean all the metal before priming
  • IMPACT performance Acid Etch Primer (IMP130 Gray) to get the metal ready for paint
  • Bumper: I'll be painting the bumper later with some SEM 49133 Matte Black paint.
  • Battery Tray: I'll be painting this with a can of Universal Silver Mettalic Duplii-color paint. This is the paint I use to touch up my Jeep.
Took me a bit to make sure all the metal was clean. The battery mount had a tiny bit of rust that I sanded off before cleaning. I made sure to get all the welds, edges, and corners extra clean.

I then primed everything with 3 coats of the etching primer. I actually ran out on the bumper so I'll have to go to the store and get some more before finishing that! But I was able to get the batter box coated up nice and painted silver. Now I have to clean up the firewall where this will be mounted. It should look pretty good when done!

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Dying for mor pics man!

I am still waiting for parts!!! My Full Traction kit will be here in 2 weeks along with my new G2 front end. My PSC Steering is on its way. I just received my new air intake. I do have some pics I am getting ready to post of installing my Genright Inner fenders and Batter box relocation. I hate waiting!!! I am supposed to have this entire build done by the first of September in time for the Labor Day Safari in Moab!
 
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UPDATE:

I decide to get my inner fender liner install going and was all finished putting them together when my wife came out and said, "You aren't going to put those on looking like that are you?" I looked at her and asked, "Why?"

"Because you put the bolts in backward! You don't want the nut showing inside the fender - unless you are trying to make the engine bay look nicer." sigh........

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Update: I am not going to have this done by Labor day because I am still waiting for parts! My new finish date is the 3rd Sat in October where we will be attacking Price, Utah. I break more parts in Price than Moab, or anywhere else!

My aFe Power intake is here! This is required because I will not be able to use the stock airbox with the new Genright inner fenders. It looks like I may be doing some modifications on this when installed. Stay posted!

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I am removing the full Tereaflex belly pan today to make room for the Full-Traction kit I ordered. This Tereflex pan covers the oil pan, the transmission, and most of the undercarriage back to the rear axle. I'll have to see if I can still use this to cover the Oil and Transmission after I install the Full-Traction kit.

And, looking at the pan, I would say I rub the bottom of my Jeep A LOT.

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Why did you choose full traction?

I run a lot in Price, Utah, which is where I end up breaking things - 3' tall boulders in empty river beds will do that!! I have been running on a BDS short arm kit for the last few years and finally decided to upgrade to a long-arm kit. The guys I go out with said the only kit they would look at is Full-Traction because of how little maintenance they require, how strong they are, and how functional they are. I also have a friend in our club that put on their 4" non-stretched TJ kit last year and he loves it.

I have been working with the guys at Full-Traction and what I have found is that they really know their stuff. I told them what I was currently running, what I wanted to do, and they recommended what I needed. I ended up getting their 4" TJ stretch, with a full belly pan, new gas tank, rear corner guards, & oil pan cover. I told them I was thinking about adding coil-overs and they talked me out of it saying their kit is made to stretch enough that I would not need coil-overs. He suggested to get 27-28" shocks on the front and use the springs I already have. Saved me a ton of money!

Overall it may be a bit more money than some of the other kits out there, but I feel it is going to be worth it. I'll have to post a follow-up post on how it actually handles when it is all done!
 
OK, time to get serious! The first thing I did was to build a crib to support the front end, and I am using 4 jacks in the rear because I cannot fit a crib with all that has to be done.

I also removed the Teraflex belly pan/oil pan, the rear poison spyder corner guards, and the inner linings. I could not believe the dirt that was on the inside of the belly pan and how bad the scratches were on the outside!!! What can I say, I love rocks!

Next, I will be pulling the rear end out and removing the axles so we can weld on the Full-Traction truss when it comes in. Then I will be draining and pulling the gas tank and rear bumper.

More fun coming up!!!

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